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how do you remove a transmission fill nut????

This is a discussion on how do you remove a transmission fill nut???? within the Ranger Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; i think i posted this in the wrong place, so i will repost it here. sorry for duble posting, still figuring this all out. ok, ...

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Thread: how do you remove a transmission fill nut????

  1. #1
    (david) Veteran Member bulldogs101's Avatar
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    how do you remove a transmission fill nut????

    i think i posted this in the wrong place, so i will repost it here. sorry for duble posting, still figuring this all out.

    ok, sometimes you just know when your beat...lol... and im close, so save me please...lol

    got all the fluids changes, oil/filter, front gear case, did not need to take off skid plate at all or front bumper. checked radiator,battery,brake fluid and air filters.. BY THE WAY I ASSUME THE IS NO POWER STEERING FLUID????


    now for teh part still remaining, what tool does one use to get the transmission fill plug ( upper one) off with. the empty or drain one is simple. the fill plug, in a bad spot, frame and welded bottom in teh way, off center of anythig i have. even tryed 5/16 hex on a pivoting ratchet, and on a everything... cant get into it and get it off. so what is the trick on this one!!! thanks
    2011 polaris ranger crew/efi

  2. #2
    (david) Veteran Member bulldogs101's Avatar
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    one more question please.

    on the 11 ranger crew, i only saw 1 grease zeert point, drive shaft near transmission. is there anything else for lub points. thanks again~

  3. #3
    (Robert) Regular Member rkersh409's Avatar
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    I don't know about the tranny plug but the dealer told me yesterday they only have the one grease zeert.
    2011 Crew Graphite Le ; Viper 4000lb Elite Winch ; EMP CV Boot Guards ; FTD Cabs Hard Top

  4. #4
    (Robert) Regular Member rkersh409's Avatar
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    I don't know about the tranny plug but the dealer told me yesterday they only have the one grease zeert.
    2011 Crew Graphite Le ; Viper 4000lb Elite Winch ; EMP CV Boot Guards ; FTD Cabs Hard Top

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    (Ball Equipment) PRC Sponsor Ball Equipment's Avatar
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    What year Ranger

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  6. #6
    (Steve) SSW Moderator slane01's Avatar
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    The Tranny drain plug/nut is easy to get at, while the fill plug/nut is a bugger. I found that out after I had drained my Tranny Fluid

    Here is what I ended up coming up with after my first Tranny Fluid refill through the Tranny Vent Tube on my 2010 Crew



    I could not find an 8mm hex wrench on a swivel that was short enough to clear the Ranger Frame and fit into the fill plug.

    I finally found an 1/4" drive 8mm swivel socket that had a really low profile. I then took an 8mm hex key and cut about 3/4" t0 1" off of the hex key stock and used JB Weld to permanently bond it to the 8mm swivel socket. I was also careful not to get any JB Weld in the swivel mechanisim.

    I then got an 1/4" drive, 8" socket extension. With that setup I can get the socket into the fill plug and clear the Ranger Frame. You can add another extension if necessary, or also add a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter to adapt it to a 3/8" drive if necessary.

    I don't know what the heck the dealers use to get the fill plug out, and I couldn't find the right tool for me to use, so I created my own with a trip to sears and some JB Weld.
    Steve Lane
    PRC Member# 5117
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    2010 Red Ranger Crew, Polaris Tip-out Windshield, Rear Panel, & Steel Roof and Boss Snow Plow from Ball Equipment.

  7. #7
    (david) Veteran Member bulldogs101's Avatar
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    its a 2011 polaris ranger crew..


    ya im not sure what dealers use either. you say u fill using the vent tube??? if so how do you know its proper filled. not o little or to much??

    is the theory of put back what you took out the way? appreciate it. will be interesting to see what dealers use there. i thought of cutting off a hex head, but need to get somethig to cut it off with first if no other options

  8. #8
    (Steve) SSW Moderator slane01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulldogs101
    its a 2011 polaris ranger crew..


    ya im not sure what dealers use either. you say u fill using the vent tube??? if so how do you know its proper filled. not o little or to much??

    is the theory of put back what you took out the way? appreciate it. will be interesting to see what dealers use there. i thought of cutting off a hex head, but need to get somethig to cut it off with first if no other options
    I had to fill through the Vent Tube on my first fill as I did not have a means of getting my fill plug out and my fluid was drained and I needed my Ranger.

    It was a mighty long process. I did measure out the correct amount of fluid and slowly proceeded to feed it into the Vent tube.

    It would have been quicker to go and buy some different tools rather than do a vent tube fill LOL.
    Steve Lane
    PRC Member# 5117
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    2010 Red Ranger Crew, Polaris Tip-out Windshield, Rear Panel, & Steel Roof and Boss Snow Plow from Ball Equipment.

  9. #9
    (Lee) Starting Member Lee in AZ's Avatar
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    I posted this some time ago. It's best to use a 1/4 " drive. A 5/16" hex will work if you can't find an 8mm hex.....My post is on the second page:
    http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=30135

    I have just completed changing the engine oil, transmission and front hub fluids on my 800 XP and I would like to say "Thanks" for the info posted here. It was still a royal PITA to do the transmission and whoever designed the fill/drain plugs should be fired and sent to Yamaha to design the Rhino! Here are a few things I did on the Trans. I used a 1/4 inch universal on the fill plug...make sure you can loosen it before you remove the drain plug. I then ran the left front and rear wheel up on wheel ramps which tilted the Ranger to the right side, cut a plastic paint pan liner to slip under the drain plug. You may have to remove a plastic clamp holding the brake line...mine was right in front of the drain plug. I then removed the drain plug and the fluid ran down the plastic liner right into my oil pan without making a mess on the skid plate. Once all of the fluid was drained from the trans, I reinstalled the drain plug and pushed it off the wheel ramps to make it level for the refill. I used a pump to refill the trans...go slow because when it's full it will run out onto the skid plate.

  10. #10
    (Mark) Veteran Member mark_123's Avatar
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    I just use a regular set of individual allen wrenches and tighten and loosed by hand. I use a wratchet with extention and knuckle joint once I break it free, but I always use the little allen wrenches to break loose or tighten...no stripping of threads or stripping out head of fill plug.

    Two grease zerks: one on rear slip yolk at transmission, other is under front seat at the second drive shaft slip yolk.

    Good luck.

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