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MMA 2.5 lift on the way

This is a discussion on MMA 2.5 lift on the way within the Ranger Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; I was thinking about using Channels. What size spanner does it take? I guess I should also look in the tool box when I get ...

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Thread: MMA 2.5 lift on the way

  1. #11
    Regular Member NonTypicalCPA's Avatar
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    I was thinking about using Channels. What size spanner does it take? I guess I should also look in the tool box when I get home

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    Large channels worked easiest for me. Something to note, if you don't already know, make sure you've got your machine completely off the ground, suspension at full drop, before you adjust the shocks. You could break the nob off of the spanner if you don't.
    Pitbull

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    Elite Member TacomaJD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull View Post
    Large channels worked easiest for me. Something to note, if you don't already know, make sure you've got your machine completely off the ground, suspension at full drop, before you adjust the shocks. You could break the nob off of the spanner if you don't.
    Yup, and when you go to measure how much height it gave you, make sure you measure with suspension settled before, then after jacking up and cranking preload, let it back down then drive it backward and forward before measuring so the suspension settles. If you jack it up then let it back down and measure without moving it, it will measure a little higher than after it is driven from the spot it sits in.
    2016 Polaris Ranger 570 XP F/S
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    I purchased the MMA lift for my 6x6. I only used the front bracket because of the weight of my steel cab but it was very easy to install. I've had mine on for a year with no problems. I also purchased heavier springs for the front because of my plow. I left the spring rate on the lightest setting and it rides pretty smooth.
    2015 Ranger800 6x6

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  6. #15
    Regular Member NonTypicalCPA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull View Post
    Large channels worked easiest for me. Something to note, if you don't already know, make sure you've got your machine completely off the ground, suspension at full drop, before you adjust the shocks. You could break the nob off of the spanner if you don't.
    Didn't know that! Thanks for the tip.

  7. #16
    (Todd) 1000+ Member teshreve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by g.schucks View Post
    I feel like my crew is a little "tippy" as well. I have not touched the shocks yet so I think I might adjust the snail cam(?) to about the middle as well and give it a ride. It is at the lowest (softest) setting from the factory? Just to make sure that I understand correctly, that changes the shock rate and moving it up form the bottom will make the ride stiffer? Moving the shock to a different bolt would just change the ride heigth?

    Lift should be in today, but it finally has snowed here for the first time this year... I am sitting at work doing nothing waiting for 4PM to see if there is enough for me to hook up the plow and try her out.
    It does not change rates, either spring or damping. The preload only changes ride height. Raising ride height with preload will not make your Ranger less tippy. It will make it more tippy. It will not ride stiffer either because, well, you didn't change spring or damping rates

    If you think your machine is tippy now, try taking the sway bar off. The ride quality will go way up, but it will be tippyfest 2017. And when you put the sway bar back on you will realize what a puss you were and want to take it off again.
    If you want less tippy, move the top of the shock to the outer mounts.
    Last edited by teshreve; 01-05-2017 at 09:20 PM.
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    Elite Member TacomaJD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teshreve View Post
    It does not change rates, either spring or damping. The preload only changes ride height. Raising ride height with preload will not make your Ranger less tippy. It will make it more tippy. It will not ride stiffer either because, well, you didn't change spring or damping rates

    If you think your machine is tippy now, try taking the sway bar off. The ride quality will go way up, but it will be tippyfest 2017. And when you put the sway bar back on you will realize what a puss you were and want to take it off again.
    If you want less tippy, move the top of the shock to the outer mounts.
    Try it.

    It definitely does make it ride stiffer and less tippy. I cranked preload all the way up on a Grizzly 700 to fit 30's and also done it on my Ranger before I bought lift and tires for it.

    The grizzly went from being able to make it nose dive easily by blipping throttle and letting off them hammering it to ride a wheelie, to firm as hell and hard to wheelie.

    Same with Ranger, I first ran it at 2 clicks up from softest setting - significantly noticeable difference in ride quality, ie much stiffer. Similar to when I ran the HL lift. Went on one ride like that, then let it back down.

    Stiffer suspension = less tippy.

    I know a little about suspension dynamics, but I am not sure I can explain why it does this. It's "preoloading", but all it's really doing is making it ride higher with more of the shock shaft showing. It's not like it is increasing lbs per sq inch between two fixed points. And it's not the new suspension geometry, or it would be the same after I installed the MMA lift, and it is not. 2 clicks up on stock suspension rode more firm than after installing MMA lift with shocks on softest setting.

    I can't really pinpoint what mechanical function inside the shock that could cause this, I've actually pondered it for quite sometime now. I would love to hear someone's theory/explanation on the matter that knows more than me.
    Last edited by TacomaJD; 01-06-2017 at 03:53 AM.
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    2016 Polaris Ranger 570 XP F/S
    2.5" Marshall Motoart lift - rides as soft as stock
    SuperATV forward arched arms
    30" EFX Motoclaws / STI HD5 beadlocks
    Multi-vent hardcoat windshield
    Canvas rear window

  9. #18
    Elite Member TacomaJD's Avatar
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    If you want to experiment and see for yourself, changing nothing else, crank preload on all 4 corners 2-4 clicks up, and do a before and after ride quality comparison. And actually drive fast across rough terrain. Won't be noticeable driving down a smooth driveway or yer paw paw's plush hay field. Lol.

    As I think more on it, I keep wanting to blame it on new suspension geometry, as the further down the a-arms are, they have less leverage to compress the shock under the same load - think pushing out and up instead of straight up on the shock when arms are parallel to ground. Every little change in geometry affects something else. That makes sense, but I feel like I recall 2 clicks up on stock suspension riding worse than what mine currently does with MMA lift, which should produce same results if that was the case. Idk, too deep of thought for me to be in at 4am....I need sleep.
    Last edited by TacomaJD; 01-06-2017 at 04:10 AM.
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    2.5" Marshall Motoart lift - rides as soft as stock
    SuperATV forward arched arms
    30" EFX Motoclaws / STI HD5 beadlocks
    Multi-vent hardcoat windshield
    Canvas rear window

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    (Todd) 1000+ Member teshreve's Avatar
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    I might give it a try. I want to do it because it defies what I know about suspension tuning. Raising the center of gravity to reduce body roll? Nice!
    Perhaps the springs are progressive and increasing preload subtracts from the softest section because they are in a compressed state even before being installed on the machine? Whatever the voodoo, I won't believe it until I feel it. Heh.
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    Ok, there is more to this, but I'm just going to comment on the spring thing.

    Example: Adjusting the Preload does not change the spring rate. Adjusting the Preload however changes the force that is being applied to the spring.
    The spring has a rate, which is the amount of weight required to compress a spring 1 inch.
    The spring also has a Design rate, which is the amount of weight a spring will carry at a certain height.

    Adjusting the Preload up, does raise the shocks ( this is a captured length, so they will only move so far) and will increase the amount of force it takes to compress the springs. Let's say the spring rate is 200 lbs. and we maxed out the Preload ( let's say 1 inch of movement), so now you need 400 lbs. to compress the spring 1 inch (you would only need 200 lbs if the Preload was at its lowest setting, but we raised it 1 inch) 600 lbs. to compress it 2 inches, this is for each shock.

    So the unit will be less tippy and your ride harshness does increase, but additional weight applied to the unit in accessories etc, will counteract some of this.
    The center of gravity could be raised, but this will depend on how much weight the springs are having to support.

    The shocks have no bearing on this.

    Cause and Effect.

    The force that is applied to the spring (Preload) will exert the same force in the opposite direction, pressing back on the force being applied (unit weight). This is decreasing the pitch of the spring, which will not allow as much spring movement.

    Putting the MMA lift on will change the ride height. And you have a extremely minimal change in ride stiffness due to the more vertical position of the shock, in the stock position.
    Last edited by Toxic-21; 01-06-2017 at 10:33 AM.
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