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first repair job

This is a discussion on first repair job within the Ranger XP 900 & 570 FS Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; Thats why good portion of us are here. To learn hopefully without all the errors of a beginner. Hopefully toxic can chime in with his ...

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Thread: first repair job

  1. #11
    Veteran Member summermn's Avatar
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    Thats why good portion of us are here. To learn hopefully without all the errors of a beginner. Hopefully toxic can chime in with his experience on the matter

  2. #12
    1000+ Member Rangerwhit's Avatar
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    Have read where others have bought cv's from local auto parts stores with warranty included. Not sure if they are for your model though. I, personally wouldn't beef up the axles, especially if you have big tires. Passes the stresses up the drive train, which could get expensive quick. Think of it as a shear point.
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  3. #13
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    (Rod) Elite Member RJ's Avatar
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    As has been said on here many times....just remember that the axles are a fuse so to speak. If you go to heavy duty....the next weakest link up the line will break. And thats the trans. Far cheaper and easier to replace axles than transmission parts.
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  5. #14
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    I hadn't considered that, but it sounds like good advice. I was just hoping to prevent the damage from happening again; sounds like that's not the way to go.

  6. #15
    (Joe) 1000+ Member jaybey's Avatar
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    What were you doing when the axel began to make noise? Start there and review what you could have done to prevent it. Don't kick yourself to hard, life is a learning experience and to learn you need to have fun. Look into new parts only as you have already decide. Keep us posted on the progress please.
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  7. #16
    (Josh) Elite Member jobo2856's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samhallnc View Post
    I apologize if I'm asking ignorant questions, I'm new to working on things with 4 wheels. The Rhino 2.0 axles have the joints on both ends (from the service manual they're called CV Joint and Plunging Joint)- my question is, are those joints superior to OEM in some way? Or is the Rhino 2.0's only benefit over OEM the diameter of the actual axle?
    Yes the SuperATV Rhino 2.0 CV Axles are far superior to the OEM. They are stronger and can operate at harsher angles on the CV Joints. Highlifter also makes a great replacement axles as well. I would replace both rear axles if it were mine.
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  8. #17
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaybey View Post
    What were you doing when the axel began to make noise? Start there and review what you could have done to prevent it. Don't kick yourself to hard, life is a learning experience and to learn you need to have fun. Look into new parts only as you have already decide. Keep us posted on the progress please.
    I can't be sure because I only heard the popping when turning hard. My trails through the woods are very harsh because of the amount of rain we've seen in the last year. Almost certainly in low gear and 4 wheel drive creeping through some deep uneven mud. I got the rear end off of the ground last night and the wheels off; the right rear (turf mode wheel) has a ton of play in it. I'm not sure which joint is to blame because I didn't have a 27mm socket to get the axle nut off. I'll get the axle completely out today or tomorrow. I can shake the rear left wheel a little bit but not much.. not sure how much (if any) play is within tolerance.

    Quote Originally Posted by jobo2856 View Post
    Yes the SuperATV Rhino 2.0 CV Axles are far superior to the OEM. They are stronger and can operate at harsher angles on the CV Joints. Highlifter also makes a great replacement axles as well. I would replace both rear axles if it were mine.
    That's what I was wondering, is if the joints could take harsher angles. I understand the reasoning behind not beefing up the axles but I want those CV joint angles so I'm probably going to go with the Rhino 2.0's anyway. I don't have the money to order parts until Thursday so I've got time to mull it over. I'm with you on replacing both though, that'll give me a decent spare for emergency repairs anyway.
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  9. #18
    Veteran Member summermn's Avatar
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    Could it have been a joint failure due to water getting into joint? Don't take many miles to destroy a joint if rust starts in it and the grease has washed out.
    Will be interesting to see the joint dismantled after removal. Have a pre trip inspection to do on the 350 before going 1600+ miles back north this weekend. I had drove through some water in the flooding last fall around Austin. I've seen perfect bearings go bad in no time at all after a bath.

  10. #19
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summermn View Post
    Could it have been a joint failure due to water getting into joint? Don't take many miles to destroy a joint if rust starts in it and the grease has washed out.
    Will be interesting to see the joint dismantled after removal. Have a pre trip inspection to do on the 350 before going 1600+ miles back north this weekend. I had drove through some water in the flooding last fall around Austin. I've seen perfect bearings go bad in no time at all after a bath.
    Definitely a possibility, I cross floorboard-deep water every day.

  11. #20
    Veteran Member summermn's Avatar
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    I had a couple pieces of equipment that required the joints to be greased daily because of the extreme use factor. Your use may be in the "extreme use " category
    Warm bearing meets cold water. Because of contraction sucks in the water and out goes a bit of grease. Boat trailer bearings are prime example of this.
    samhallnc likes this.

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