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first repair job

This is a discussion on first repair job within the Ranger XP 900 & 570 FS Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; I had a little time yesterday to get into this; no rush since the axles won't be here until Monday. I couldn't separate the wheel ...

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Thread: first repair job

  1. #21
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    I had a little time yesterday to get into this; no rush since the axles won't be here until Monday. I couldn't separate the wheel hub from the bearing carrier, I guess they're rusted together. I took out one of the A arm bolts to drop the hub out of the way to get to the axle. If anyone has any tips on separating the hub and bearing carrier, please enlighten me. Problem #2 is the axle doesn't want to pull out of the transmission; I'd appreciate any advice on that point as well.

  2. #22
    (Glen) 1000+ Member gemery's Avatar
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    As far as pulling the axle out of the differential, I have had a little experience at that. I've been told they just pop out but You gotta get mean. Jerk on the darn thing. I had one stuck in the front diff of my 05 500. Had the opposite side of the Ranger anchored to my pickup, had the winch line from my mule tied to the end of the axle, tight as I could get it, attached a slide hammer onto the axle also, and beat on it until my arms felt like jello, it finally gave up and came out. Put a little Never Seize on the spline of the new one.
    samhallnc likes this.
    2012 Red Ranger 500 EFI, 2017 Full size 570, and we still have the 2005 mule 610, 5 antique tractors, 3 dogs, 2 kids, two granddaughters and two grandsons, and glad to be retired.

  3. #23
    1000+ Member Rangerwhit's Avatar
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    Tried that once and the inboard joint was the only thing left. Ended up using a chisel and big hammer to "beat" it out... Keep turning it when banging it.
    Last edited by Rangerwhit; 04-04-2019 at 11:46 PM.
    samhallnc likes this.
    2007 Ranger 500 (Carb)

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  5. #24
    (Glen) 1000+ Member gemery's Avatar
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    On mine it came apart at the inner joint (might have involved a little collision). I drilled a hole in the bearing cup and attached a clevis, then the winch line, slide hammer, lots of cuss words, and prayers.
    Rangerwhit likes this.
    2012 Red Ranger 500 EFI, 2017 Full size 570, and we still have the 2005 mule 610, 5 antique tractors, 3 dogs, 2 kids, two granddaughters and two grandsons, and glad to be retired.

  6. #25
    1000+ Member Rangerwhit's Avatar
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    A sharp impact is best to dislodge. Some swear by pb blaster, but I still have my fathers liquid wrench. Cuss words and forgiveness! lol
    2007 Ranger 500 (Carb)

  7. #26
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    I still don't have the axle out, but I started taking the other side apart because I'm going to change them both and I figured that if I can get that axle out, maybe I can punch through to beat the other out. I saw a video of someone blowing air through after both axles were removed, so I thought perhaps there'd be enough opening to hammer the axle out from the other side. I think that was a rzr, so I don't know if it's the same on the ranger.

    After taking the drivers side apart I can tell that the wheel bearing is shot on the trouble side, in fact that's probably all of the problem I had. I'm going to change the axles anyway since I have them and the one boot is torn. The replacement boots are made of much heavier material.

  8. #27
    (Steve) 1000+ Member pyromedic's Avatar
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    The advice below comes from experience with other equipment, not specifically a Polaris Ranger so take it as general advice that usually works for similar situations.

    For rusted together areas PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench ATF and kerosene or some other concoction is a good place to start followed by gentle heating (but not so hot as to damage seals) which thins the rust busting liquid and helps it seep into dry areas and some judicious blows with a brass or lead hammer will get things started moving after which patience, more rust juice, more heating and tapping will usually allow things to separate. For heat I start with a heat gun which allows me to control the heat better than a flame and I know will only get things so hot, but a heat gun will still get things hot enough to damage rubber parts so be careful of that. If possible heat the side opposite where you pout the rust juice becasue the heat will tend to draw it in that direction.

    The inboard area where the axle is inserted into the transmission is a candidate for a slide hammer operation. You may have to make your own tools by adding a vise grip to a slide hammer to grip the axle and bang it out or if the axle is trash anyway cutting off the axle and welding a threaded rod with the same thread as the end of your slide hammer to the sawed off end add a coupling nut and bang away with the slide hammer. You may be dealing with rust and dirt on the inboard end too so the rust busting juice isn't a bad idea here either.
    samhallnc likes this.
    2015 Polaris Ranger 570 Full Size XP
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  9. #28
    Regular Member 410Customs's Avatar
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    CV axles are usually retained inside the diff/trans with a cir clip. To defeat the circlip usually a small pry bar between the housing and the back of the CV axle, pry and it should pop.
    Other methods mentioned above work well too, but I have the best luck with a pry bar
    samhallnc likes this.
    2018 XP1K Crew Northstar, 2014 XP1K, 2015 XP1K4, 2014 Ace 325, 2004 Sportsman 450ho, 2005 RMK IQ 900 mod sled, Polaris THE WAY OUT

  10. #29
    (Sam) Regular Member samhallnc's Avatar
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    One of the axles finally pulled out after soaking in pb blaster. I pulled the other one out with a ratchet strap of all things. Other than the boot being torn on both axles they didn't look to be in bad shape. I very well may regret not taking the advice to stick with thin axles as a "fuse", but I really like that the Rhino 2.0's have much sturdier boots. Turns out the problem was a wheel bearing, which completely came apart when I separated the wheel hub from the bearing carrier. One side of the outer bearing stayed on the wheel hub and will have to be cut off, which may not be possible without scoring the spindle on the wheel hub, we'll see. The bearing carrier isn't giving up the center of the bearing yet, though I may be able to press it out; I won't know that until my bearing press comes in the mail this weekend. I ordered a used bearing carrier for $20 in case I can't get it out.
    410Customs likes this.

  11. #30
    Regular Member 410Customs's Avatar
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    smart to be prepared and for $20! good call
    samhallnc likes this.
    2018 XP1K Crew Northstar, 2014 XP1K, 2015 XP1K4, 2014 Ace 325, 2004 Sportsman 450ho, 2005 RMK IQ 900 mod sled, Polaris THE WAY OUT

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