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Polaris heater detailed instructions

This is a discussion on Polaris heater detailed instructions within the Ranger XP 900 & 570 FS Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; The first thing I noticed when I unpacked the Polaris heater was that is does not control the temperature by limiting the coolant flow through ...

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  1. #1
    (Neal) Retired Moderator oneal's Avatar
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    Polaris heater detailed instructions

    The first thing I noticed when I unpacked the Polaris heater was that is does not control the temperature by limiting the coolant flow through it. This concerned me but after installation was complete I found it worked very well and controls the temperature very well. I have only used in temps in the teens so far and unit will run you out. This installation took me a healthy six hours just due to it being different than the old style heaters plus I can be overly meticulous.The instructions are fairly thorough but I will mention details I believe will help.




    Here is what you get:





    You will need to completely remove the upper dash, dash cap, and lower dash.











    To alleviate any wiring to switch confusion I snapped each switch from the dash one at a time and snapped the harness back into each one as I removed it. Takes any guess work out or need to mark them.











    This how it looks naked:







    Next drill the premarked holes, Polaris placed dimples so there is no lay out needed.










    After mounting the heater the instructions suggest cutting a notch in the floorboard where the tunnel cover meets it to allow the heater hoses to be routed up to the heater. I wanted mine to be routed in a manner that they could move when the tunnel cover is removed and to be able to get a good seal around the hoses so I chose to move them a little farther into the floorboard, I used a 7/8" hole saw to penetrate the floorboard. Be extremely careful if you do this as the wire harness is right behind the floorboard, I used a screwdriver to hold the harness back on the drivers side hole.










    Then route your hoses along the existing cooling lines and tie them neatly to them.










    I siliconed around the hoses where they penetrate the floorboard.







    Next, make your connections at the engine as the instructions state. Good luck not loosing your coolant, didn't work out for me.





    At this point I started the process of bleeding the air from the coolant system. After topping the radiator off I started the engine and allowed it to warm enough to open the engine thermostat, gave it a couple of revs to help push the air forward and then allowed the engine to cool so I could add more coolant and repeat the process. I did this four or five times while I was completing the heater installation and I was able to remove 100% of the air without using the bleeder




    Next cut all your holes for the various heater vents/diffusers. Make certain you cut to the inside of the factory scribed lines as this picture illustrates. This is a must or your hole will be too large. I used a Rotozip to make the cuts.
















    Next install the plenum with hoses installed.
    Note #1- if you are installing the cab seal kit make sure to do the front portion now while the dash is off, you will not need to remove the front fenders as the cab seal instructions state when the dash is apart. There were some small openings behind the dash after I installed the cab seal kit so I cut loose with a can of expanding foam which worked very well.







    Note #2, after final connection of the air hoses to the defrost vents I felt it would have been easier to install them on the vent diffusers first and to the plenum last.










    Drill the two 3" holes in the bottom storage tray, snap the diffusers in place and then cut the strage box off as illistrated in the instructions.












    Then snap the cover in place that covers the hole where you removed the storage box.




    We rode our Ranger around for a couple weeks before I installed the center dash panel while waiting for our radio and it gave me a chance to experiment with the center heat ducts. We found we liked it best with them sealed off which forces more air through the top and side defrost ducts along with the floor heat. Here are the final assembly along with some pics of the additional light switches, they look really cool at night.





    You can now re-assemble the dash, install the new switches and make your final wiring connection. Make certain to,connect the yellow wire/red stripe to the keyed switch post.


    As stated in the beginning of this post this heater will do the job well in extremely cold temps and it is very quiet. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by oneal; 12-24-2013 at 08:02 AM.
    AK-Bandit likes this.
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    Neal

    Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

  2. #2
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    (Rich) PRC/SSW Moderator RZR Rich's Avatar
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    Great write-up w/pics Neal, definitely will come in handy for anyone attempting this install....very nice!

    Using Tapatalk again.
    Rich

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    (Randy) Retired Moderator Ran's Avatar
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    Very nice write-up, Neal. This one will be a great help to anyone planning to install the Polaris heater..



    PRC #1297
    Member since 12/22/05

    Randy


    Randy W. Tomahawk, Wisconsin: 2014 Ranger Crew

    "To get up each morning with the resolve to be happy...is to set our own conditions to the events of each day. To do this is to condition circumstances instead of being conditioned by them."
    Ralph Waldo Trine

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    (Gary) Retired Moderator Gary Lenon's Avatar
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    Very nice Neal; this will make the job easier for other members doing this install.

  6. #5
    (Stan) Veteran Member StanMI's Avatar
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    Didn't see mention of, "It'll work, but if you want good reliable heat, you need the thermostat adapter from Polaris." (saw this in another heater install thread.) Can you expand on this ??????? If the polaris system is the only one that has it might sway me/someone to buy the OEM unit.

  7. #6
    (Neal) Retired Moderator oneal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanMI View Post
    Didn't see mention of, "It'll work, but if you want good reliable heat, you need the thermostat adapter from Polaris." (saw this in another heater install thread.) Can you expand on this ??????? If the polaris system is the only one that has it might sway me/someone to buy the OEM unit.
    Stan, our local temps still have not dropped below the teens but once the cab warms up I have to set the thermostat around 50% or it gets hot inside. I can't comment on the "Polaris thermostat adaptor" for the 900. On previous 700/800 engines some higher quality kits came with a thermostat plate that allowed coolant to flow to the heater from the engine side of the thermostat. On the 900 (at least on the Polaris kit) you disconnect the hose runs from the water pump to the oil cooler and force all that coolant to the heater first, and then it returns to complete the circuit to the oil cooler.
    ,,,,,,,,,,,

    Neal

    Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

  8. #7
    (Stan) Veteran Member StanMI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oneal View Post
    Stan, our local temps still have not dropped below the teens but once the cab warms up I have to set the thermostat around 50% or it gets hot inside. I can't comment on the "Polaris thermostat adaptor" for the 900. On previous 700/800 engines some higher quality kits came with a thermostat plate that allowed coolant to flow to the heater from the engine side of the thermostat. On the 900 (at least on the Polaris kit) you disconnect the hose runs from the water pump to the oil cooler and force all that coolant to the heater first, and then it returns to complete the circuit to the oil cooler.
    Thanks !!

    This might seem like a dumb question, is there a way to turn the heat/flow off so it doesn't put out any heat in the summer ??? Also, could you provide a part number for your kit ?

  9. #8
    (Andre) Regular Member andre's Avatar
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    no shut off on it.... the cab heater is the one on the Polaris website.

  10. #9
    (Neal) Retired Moderator oneal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanMI View Post
    Thanks !!

    This might seem like a dumb question, is there a way to turn the heat/flow off so it doesn't put out any heat in the summer ??? Also, could you provide a part number for your kit ?

    That is not a dumb question. There is no means to shut the coolant flow off but there is a damper in the unit that shuts off all air flow. The part number for the kit is 2879213.
    ,,,,,,,,,,,

    Neal

    Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

  11. #10
    (pierre) Elite Member pierre jean's Avatar
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    Thank Neal , I have to do the job next week , and shure it will help , say my wife
    Last edited by pierre jean; 12-11-2013 at 07:37 AM.
    Pierre Jean

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