Really Need Help. Trying Everything to Make this Ranger Run
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Really Need Help. Trying Everything to Make this Ranger Run

This is a discussion on Really Need Help. Trying Everything to Make this Ranger Run within the Ranger Discussions forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; I had this problem last year about this same time. 2011 Ranger 500 Crew. Idle erratic. Most of the time will stall after cranking--sometimes will ...

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Thread: Really Need Help. Trying Everything to Make this Ranger Run

  1. #1
    Starting Member rugerman's Avatar
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    Really Need Help. Trying Everything to Make this Ranger Run

    I had this problem last year about this same time. 2011 Ranger 500 Crew. Idle erratic. Most of the time will stall after cranking--sometimes will run a a few minutes before shutting down.

    Last year, I tried Seafoam, new plug , replaced Air Temp sensor. After a day or so, It ran all the rest of fall, winter and spring without a problem. someone suggested last year that it may be a failing fuel pump. Disregarded because it ran fine all the aforementioned time. Strange, I know. But true. Literally almost a year to the day later, it start doing the same thing.

    This year, it all of a sudden was hard to start. Manipulated accelerator and made it run. Spit, sputtered, backfired and shut off. Every time I tried. I called the mechanic. he said replace the plug. I did. It ran great for a day then back to the same problem. Replaced the plug again, but it made no difference. I replaced air temp sensor again this year with a non Polaris part. No difference. Replaced fuel pump--no difference. Siphoned gas and replaced with new non ethanol (all I've ever run in it)--no difference.

    Have no idea what is going on. Seems like it doesn't like hot, humid weather.

    If I manipulate the accelerator while cranking it will run and will run with no problems at high and medium speeds, but as soon as I let off of the gas, it will mostly stall and is sometimes very hard to start back even if engine has been running.

    Watching the RPMs when cranking, it will get to a bout 950 RPMs and then stall. When it does decide to idle it will do so at about 1120 RPMS.

    At this point, I have no clue what the problem could be. I've thrown a lot of money at this thing to no avail.. Wondering if its electrical. Idle air sensor, etc? It just doesn't seem to want to idle--other than that it will run.

    Please help. Any advice is much appreciated.

  2. #2
    (Steve) 1000+ Member pyromedic's Avatar
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    1) Has this unit been stored for a period of time of disuse?
    2) Was it stored with E-10 (ethanol fuel) in the tank?
    3) Did you use fuel stabilizer?
    4) Was the tank full or empty during storage?


    Plugs don't go bad just sitting. If it was running well and stored and trouble began after storage it's doubtful that the plug is the culprit. Inspection of the plug should be enough to determine whether it's fouled.
    Fuel pumps do go bad. Obtain a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. Compare to specs in manual. Even a new fuel pump could be defective. Tests confirm.
    Get a manual if you don't have one. There are digital downloads for most models available on line for about $10.
    If it was stored with ethanol fuel simply draining the tank and replacing the fuel may not be enough. In addition to Phase Separation, ethanol fuel also damages rubber parts and even some metals. The fuel lines may have begun to deteriorate from within with no visible exterior damage. Small particles of damaged fuel hose may be clogging injectors.
    Polaris states that 80% of electrical problems are due to poor connections. Corrosion, damage or dirt at the connections or wires damaged by vermin could be the problem. Inspect all wiring. Manual should tell you how to test EFI electrical components (Sensors).
    I don't know whether 500s had the problem, but some engines had a problem with a wiring harness. (I think it may have been 700/7800 engines)
    rugerman likes this.
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  3. #3
    Elite Member summermn's Avatar
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    I already suggested getting fuel system pressure done ruger went with getting new pump instead$$$
    My thoughts lead me to a faulty sensor and or now the fuel injectors being partially plugged and low idle really starts failing and only runs with wot. BPS probably could get a better handle on this.
    pyromedic and rugerman like this.

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  5. #4
    (Kris) 1000+ Member jungleman's Avatar
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    Hi Ruger, I would be looking for any EFI fault codes from the computer first but it sounds like a IAC (IDLE AIR CIRCUIT) problem and either the harness is bad which happens quite frequently on that machine or some krap has accumulated on the diaphragm inside and is in need of a careful cleaning. My crystal balz are going "change the harness".
    Last edited by jungleman; 07-06-2019 at 08:10 AM.
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  6. #5
    (Larry) 1000+ Member pede58's Avatar
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    Might be the coil, take it off and look for carbon tracks.
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  7. #6
    (Rock) 1000+ Member rocknroll's Avatar
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    You could always check the valve lash. Should be .006 on intake and exhaust. Hard starting and no idle happens when the clearance closes up.
    It is easy to do.
    Remove the valve cover,
    Screw out the plug in the top of the flywheel cover.
    Line up the T mark with the pointer while on the compression stroke.
    Check the clearance.

    This is from memory. If it is wrong maybe someone will correct it.
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  8. #7
    Starting Member rugerman's Avatar
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    Thanks all. The machine was not stored. I usually drive it every single day. Strange how it happened when it was hot out on both occasions. I know I jumped the gun on the fuel pump. And perhaps the pump is faulty and does need to be checked as well. Probably going to send it to mechanic to see if he can figure out which of these suggestions it could be. I really didn't think it was the gas, but had to make sure first as it was an easy test. The day it ran so well after I put the plug in, I had wiggled a lot of wires and tried to check them for any breaks or chafing. Didn't find any but I am wondering if something is faulty electronically and I just made the circuit momentarily by moving the wires. the machine will run at higher rpms, just won't idle and hard to start. thanks again for any ideas on this matter. I really appreciate it. BTW, I can not get it to show me any codes. Neutral, turn key to on position 3 times and wait. Nothing.

  9. #8
    (Kevin) Veteran Member Happy Prospector's Avatar
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    Have you checked the wiring harness for chaffed and/or broken wires? Seems to me some of the earlier Rangers had this problem, and a friend of mine had the same kind of problem you are having and he replaced his wiring harness and that cured his Ranger woes, his wires were broken inside the insulation so you couldn't see the break.
    pyromedic and rugerman like this.
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  10. #9
    Starting Member craigs700's Avatar
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    This sounds similar to a problem I had with my 700XP. Have you checked the codes? Mine indicated #2 fuel injector which can be a myriad of things. In my case there was a broken connection in the molded injector harness connection. Replaced it and been running for over a year. I know the frustration of not being able to diagnose a problem. Hope it helps. By the way, I isolated the problem when it was running rough by just shaking electrical connections. When I got to the #2 injector lead and shook it, it began to run smooth. Take my hand off and back to rough.

  11. #10
    (Josh) Elite Member move's Avatar
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    Sounds like a bad fuel injector. My 800 started acting like this and had me stumped until I decided to change injectors, as the symptoms led me to a fuel issue.(Machine wouldn't crank.) I tested the injectors and they worked but noticed they didn't create a "healthy" pattern. I swapped both the injectors with new Polaris injectors and it cranked like brand new! (I never would have guessed a weak spray pattern could have such an effect on engine operation.)

    If at all possible, I would always run non-ethanol fuel.

    I drained the tank and replaced with fresh fuel.
    Check fuel rail pressure
    Checked for spark
    Checked air filter and intake plumbing
    A solid 12v charged battery is very important
    Check all sensor wiring connections.
    Lastly I pulled injectors with rail attached and dropped them into a small bowl. Then attempted to crank the engine while watching the injectors. (I knew the engine would run on brake cleaner and was down to it being injectors or mechanical engine failure.)
    pyromedic likes this.
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