Is low Idle a bad thing?
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Is low Idle a bad thing?

This is a discussion on Is low Idle a bad thing? within the Ranger Technical forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forums category; 2007 Ranger 700 EFI.(rebuilt with 800 crank, pistons, cylinder) Runs pretty good. I'm in Northern CA and typically ride in pretty mild weather. Occasionally I ...

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Thread: Is low Idle a bad thing?

  1. #1
    (Kent) Starting Member Gypsy's Avatar
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    Is low Idle a bad thing?

    2007 Ranger 700 EFI.(rebuilt with 800 crank, pistons, cylinder) Runs pretty good. I'm in Northern CA and typically ride in pretty mild weather. Occasionally I might have to get er going when its in the low 30's It will start but dies quite a bit and if I touch the pedal it stumbles. Usually after two or three tries it will keep idling and warm up. After that its good to go.

    Which brings me to my question. I did a lot of searches and found great info here. Thank you. I did all the TPS tests and adjustments. Now I have .710 on the yellow wire but its idling at about 850 rpm. I'm tempted to order the tool and adjust it up to 1050. I think I remember that 1150 is recommended but I want to make sure its not engaging on the belt as I sit and glass often looking for wild pigs.
    Should I adjust the idle with the tool? Should I adjust the sensor?
    Both?

    Any and all advise is appreciated.
    I'm not an authority on anything but I'm trying to be an expert at almost everything.

  2. #2
    (Steve) 1000+ Member pyromedic's Avatar
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    Can't tell you what to adjust but low idle can cause low oil flow and pressure.
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  3. #3
    Elite Member summermn's Avatar
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    Low voltage-charging too.
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    1000+ Member Rangerwhit's Avatar
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    I would remove the clutch cover and see what seems best while keeping it close to specs. While on this subject, what tachometer would you suggest for small engines? Nothing but a hot light on my classic. Could use one for it along with other equipment. Thanks in advance.
    2007 Ranger 500 (Carb)

  6. #5
    Elite Member summermn's Avatar
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    They make a tach that one puts a bit of reflective tape or paint on the part to be read and it uses a laser. I was going to get one for tuning chainsaws, cycles, drones.
    I just checked Amazon and Amazons choice is for the Neiko 20713a is $20
    Several of the same manufacture but just rebranded
    Last edited by summermn; 04-13-2019 at 06:52 AM.
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  7. #6
    (Kris) 1000+ Member jungleman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gypsy View Post
    2007 Ranger 700 EFI.(rebuilt with 800 crank, pistons, cylinder) Runs pretty good. I'm in Northern CA and typically ride in pretty mild weather. Occasionally I might have to get er going when its in the low 30's It will start but dies quite a bit and if I touch the pedal it stumbles. Usually after two or three tries it will keep idling and warm up. After that its good to go.

    Which brings me to my question. I did a lot of searches and found great info here. Thank you. I did all the TPS tests and adjustments. Now I have .710 on the yellow wire but its idling at about 850 rpm. I'm tempted to order the tool and adjust it up to 1050. I think I remember that 1150 is recommended but I want to make sure its not engaging on the belt as I sit and glass often looking for wild pigs.
    Should I adjust the idle with the tool? Should I adjust the sensor?
    Both?

    Any and all advise is appreciated.
    Kent, the '07's are a fickle bunch when it comes to setting the TPS. Most wont run well at the spec base .528 and flow .710 Are you sure you dont have a nasty 'break up' when you try to rapidly accelerate (wrap) the engine ? Are you using the OEM ECU ? Try a .560 on the base and .670-.675 on the flow (screw) which brings about the question, if you dont have a tool for the screw, how do you know your TPS base setting is .528 ? You could have a rare '07 that will run on base spec but your base setting is way off...

  8. #7
    (Kent) Starting Member Gypsy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. I have never adjusted the idle screw. I just took the reading. It runs good. No break up. No backfire. OEM ECU
    I guess I should go through the whole process and set the base. I was hoping a very small adjustment on the idle screw would be OK.
    Like everything else. Do it right. No short cuts.
    I will post my results.

    Thanks Again.
    jungleman likes this.
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  9. #8
    (Kent) Starting Member Gypsy's Avatar
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    $30 for the tool. Good investment. The screw is glued and very tight. I can see it would be easy to round of with needle nose and then you are really screwed.
    Followed Junglemans advice as I have a 2007 which is weird and doesn't run best with factory specs.
    Glad I did the entire process. I had way too much slack in the cable. I don't think I was getting 100% power when I had the pedal all the way to the floor. I'll know for sure in a couple weeks when I get back on the same trails so I can do a before and after test.
    Idle is right at 1050-1100. Easy to shift. better throttle response. Smoother take off.
    I'm glad I asked about the slow Idle as I hadn't thought about the lack of battery charging and low oil pressure.
    Thanks again for the responses.
    summermn and pyromedic like this.
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  10. #9
    Elite Member summermn's Avatar
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    Members like the feedback with results and not being left up in the air as to if our advise was worth a plug nickel.
    pyromedic and yooper265 like this.

  11. #10
    (Kent) Starting Member Gypsy's Avatar
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    Gratitude

    Quote Originally Posted by summermn View Post
    Members like the feedback with results and not being left up in the air as to if our advise was worth a plug nickel.
    When people take the time to respond and share their valuable knowledge it is a great help.
    it always bugs me when people have multiple people trying to help on weird issues and then don't post the actual cause of their problem.

    Thanks again!!!
    summermn likes this.
    I'm not an authority on anything but I'm trying to be an expert at almost everything.

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