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2018 Ranger 1000 XP Issues/Annoyances

180K views 252 replies 53 participants last post by  summermn 
#1 ·
First off, let me say I really like the new machine. Overall, it was a huge upgrade from the 2011 800 XP. However, there are a few things that are bugging me about the unit and I'm hoping there may be some fixes:

1. The gear shifter issue (at least for me) is isolated to High gear. All the other gears work well, but I really have to force the shifter to get it into high gear. Anybody know if there are any linkage adjustments?

2. The unit bucks at slow speeds in high gear. I didn't have this with the old unit. I'm hoping this may subside as the unit breaks in. Anybody else experience this?

3. The throttle response, or lack thereof, in reverse is really bothersome. I don't know if this is supposed to be a safety feature or what, but I literally have to depress the gas pedal 1/3 of its full travel before the unit will start moving in reverse. Its also bad in High/Low, but not nearly as much (I have to press the pedal ~15% to 20% of its full travel before the unit responds). Again, anybody know if there might be a linkage adjustment somewhere that can correct this?

4. My Polaris vented hard coat poly windshield has numerous ripples/warps in it. This is not really noticeable on paved roads, but it's really distracting when on trails as the warping becomes pronounced as the ripples/warps move across your field of vision as your moving. Imagine looking in a warped mirror, same effect. Has anyone else noticed this?

I don't mean to nit pick, but I'm hoping there will be fixes for these things, other than the windshield which can't be fixed and I'm sure Polaris will not warranty it and take the position that it's "operating as designed".
 
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#40 ·
when I went and test drove last week- I noticed that as well. I was trying to tip the entire seat towards the steering wheel (like a 900 XP) to see if there was under seat storage and it was very loose . Or maybe I made it loose by repeatedly yanking on it! I also noticed that the back of the seat has the side "safety" tubes mounted to it to help keep you in the seat - not on the side of the ranger frame like they are on the 900XP.

More things for me to point out on Friday morning when I take the wife to do a final test drive!
 
#41 ·
Well I found my first issue. So yesterday when I picked it up I noticed when turning there was a tick, tick, tick. Kind of like when I was a kid and would put playing cards on my bike and the spokes would hit them. My first thought was the tags that are zip tied to the steering colum. So today I cut them off and noticed the noise was still there. After some investigation, number one, these new rangers are put together a lot better than the old one I had, and number two the steering shaft after the electric steering motor is rubbing on one of the vent hoses. Unfortunately they are so well put together there is no looking behind the dash or getting your hand up in there to try and feel what’s going on without taking the lower dash out.
 
#43 ·
The back of the driver seat being "flimsy" is due to the seat being adjustable (slides front to back). The side bar to hold you in is screwed onto the back of the seat with 2 screws, 1 is threaded and the other is a lag bolt. If you want to make the seat more firm at the cost of losing adjust-ability as well as losing the side bar..... You can take the seat back off by taking out the 4 bolts that attach the seat back to the lower cushion. Then take off the side bar by removing the 2 bolts that attach it to the back of the seat cushion. Then you can slide the seat bottom all the way back, hook the top of the seat back into the slots on the frame like the passenger seat is (metal tabs on the back of the seat cushion slide into slots on the frame behind the seat between the cab and bed), and slide the seat back onto the seat bottom post and re-secure the 4 bolts that attach the seat back to the seat bottom. It will be solid as a rock but you will not be able to adjust the seat forwards and backwards anymore and you will loose the side bar as you cannot make the seat back engage in the slots in the frame with the side bar on unless you were to modify the bar (id cut out a notch with a grinder or Dremel and it still may not work).
 
#44 ·
Thanks rangerman! I’m going to check that out after lunch. I’m fine with not having the bar as it has doors on it. Adjustability would only be nice for my better half and since she never adjusted the 900, she will never know the 1000 was adjustable ??
 
#45 ·
If anyone is interested I fixed the issue with the vent hose rubbing on the steering shaft.
1. I took the screws holding the lower dash out. This allowed the lower part of the dash to drop down. Machine Technology Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part

2. They I came up with a plan, my hope was I could flip flop the two hoses that are right there. Luckly it did appear that this would improve the vent hoses routing.
Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Car Engine

Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Automotive engine part

3. Then I cut the zip tie off the lower vent hose and untwisted it from around what I think is the air intake hose. As you can see there is plenty of hose in there. My next plan was to cut some off if it wanted to kink off the hoses.
Auto part Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Engine
 
#46 ·
4. Next I just put a new zip tie on the vent hose. After that I grabbed another ziptie and wrapped it around a set of wires and the intake hose that was causing the rubbing just to make sure it stayed out of the way.
Auto part Tire Vehicle Car Engine

Water Wire Hose Auto part

Auto part Fuel line

5. Then just put the lower dash back in and your good to go. I’d be interested in knowing if mine was done wrong or if this is how all the Northstars are being assembled. Here are a couple more pictures with the dash storage plate thing removed to make sure the hoses fit ok.
Technology Auto part Electronic device Vehicle

Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Auto part Bumper
 
#49 ·
Do you think if left that would have ended up wearing a hole in the vent hose? The defrost vent on the drivers side in my Northstar barley blows any heat out unless you close the other vents! Kinda a pain when you need your defrost
 
#51 · (Edited)
So I may have identified another annoyance/issue. I am very OCD about certain things, and this is one of them. When I shut (fully latched) the driver door I get what I would call a rattle that sounds like the glass is somehow loose. It’s very easy to hear when the passenger door is open because the force needed to shut the door is lower. I wouldn’t think much of it if the passenger side did the same, but the passenger side shuts more like a dull thud. I primarily notice this when the window is rolled all the way up. Anyone else notice this?
Edit: I’ll get a video of both sides closing and post if if the camera can pick up any dofference
 
#56 ·
I got one for ya: try and check the oil/find the dipstick on the Northstar. Then try and find the oil filter to double check it’s tight.
 
#58 ·
I think that the re-routed exhaust on the Nortrhstar is casuing the dipstick finding issue. Now as far as the oil filter goes - that is a compressor issue,
 
#62 ·
I did my first oil and filter change on my northstar a few weeks ago and the dip stick is something else. 1st what I did was unhooked the hydraulic assist for the box so that the box would tilt more and give me more room. The oil filter is not bad I came in from driver side and had no issues getting it off. The dip stick sucks and I fried my right hand by my thumb! I think my skin is still welded onto the header! I think a hot mitt may work better or maybe someone is making a relocateing kit for the dip stick? One thing I do want you all to know is polaris still has not come out with a better dip stick! When the stick is in the “Locked” position it should lock and I have replaced mine on my RZR and I notice on my brand new NS it did not lock! I have read on other forums about water getting into the engine because of the dipstick not locking. I would check yours they are only 20 bucks for a new one
 
#63 ·
After picking up my NS from the dealer, I took it home and went over it, found an exhaust flange bolt and spring missing. Called the dealer and they had already found them in their parking lot. They mailed them to me. No, the other flange bolt was NOT tightened to the flange either. I also noticed that the drivers side handle on the window crank seemed looser than the passenger side. I had time today to take it off and found the shoulder that holds the retaining clip broken. The broken piece was still laying inside the spacer cup. Called the dealer, got the salesman, he referred me to the parts guy, who said the crank will be on back order until mid March and was $25. I asked if it would be covered under warranty, he said that was an issue for the service department, he took my name and number and would have them call me. They didn't. So I got out the JB weld and its hanging at camp setting up. We'll see if that holds. Attention to all NS owners, these window crank handles are very cheaply built, use extreme caution when using them. Better yet, pop off the retaining clip and remove the handle, you'll see what I am talking about. The spline seems to be built ok, its the area from the retaining clip slots to the end of the hub that needs beefing up. As for the oil dip stick, I bend the aluminum heat shield above it up a little bit to ease in access from the top, when done, just bend it back down to original position and shape.
 
#64 ·
Ordered a set of universal aluminum window crank handles from eBay for the NS, took 3 days to get them @ $10.48 a set. Came with three different adapters, a round set, a square set and a 7/17"-16 splined set. The splined set fit perfectly. Super easy installation. Feel much better and look better than the stock plastic ones.
 
#65 ·
Mind sharing a link? Quick googlefoo came up with more than one option...

thanks
 
#67 · (Edited)
Thank you.

Edit: just ordered a set.
 
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