PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

2018 Ranger 1000 XP Issues/Annoyances

180K views 252 replies 53 participants last post by  summermn 
#1 ·
First off, let me say I really like the new machine. Overall, it was a huge upgrade from the 2011 800 XP. However, there are a few things that are bugging me about the unit and I'm hoping there may be some fixes:

1. The gear shifter issue (at least for me) is isolated to High gear. All the other gears work well, but I really have to force the shifter to get it into high gear. Anybody know if there are any linkage adjustments?

2. The unit bucks at slow speeds in high gear. I didn't have this with the old unit. I'm hoping this may subside as the unit breaks in. Anybody else experience this?

3. The throttle response, or lack thereof, in reverse is really bothersome. I don't know if this is supposed to be a safety feature or what, but I literally have to depress the gas pedal 1/3 of its full travel before the unit will start moving in reverse. Its also bad in High/Low, but not nearly as much (I have to press the pedal ~15% to 20% of its full travel before the unit responds). Again, anybody know if there might be a linkage adjustment somewhere that can correct this?

4. My Polaris vented hard coat poly windshield has numerous ripples/warps in it. This is not really noticeable on paved roads, but it's really distracting when on trails as the warping becomes pronounced as the ripples/warps move across your field of vision as your moving. Imagine looking in a warped mirror, same effect. Has anyone else noticed this?

I don't mean to nit pick, but I'm hoping there will be fixes for these things, other than the windshield which can't be fixed and I'm sure Polaris will not warranty it and take the position that it's "operating as designed".
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I have the 2017 version. My first one so I can’t compare. Yup mine shifts harder to high. What I find is pushing slow and easy into any gear works best. I have the glass windshield and it’s awesome. Bucking usually when I first put it into gear before warmup. I have had other issues like a burnt belt the first 20 miles covered by warrantee. I love that Ranger though.
 
#3 ·
My only issue is the shifting between gears.
 
#7 ·
I want to say all gears. Its not 100% of the time though. Sometimes it shifts easy but other times i really have to push on the shifter to the point i can feel it flex.
 
#10 ·
Ive been keeping mine in work mode since um always going slow. Dont kniw if thats right or not or it may not matter. Beats me.
 
#14 ·
Shifting gears is still a pain
 
#16 ·
I've got a 2017 1000XP and have the exact same problem. I like the idea of, but am not financially interested in investing in Duraclutch at $1500. As such, I am considering some other clutch options from Dirty Dawg and RVS Performance that I am told can address this one issue - the jumpiness upon hitting the gas. I have noticed that I am using the Work mode more often, which is something I really don't want to do as a long term fix for reasons mentioned by Hunterworks.

This clutch issue along with very cheap and ineffective bottom skid plate (fixed by installing a full ULMW plate) have been the major issues for me with an otherwise solid machine.
 
#17 ·
I’ve got the bucking “bumpiness” as well with my machine. I could be wrong but I seem to recall having this with with 2011 when i first obtained it, and it gradually went away as the belt wore in?

Hoping it will improve. Reverse is actually worse than forward gears. I’ve got nothing for 1/3 of the gas pedal travel in reverse and then she lurches like a bull breaking out of the gate. Almost drove it through the back of my garage while in performance mode...
 
#18 ·
Just tried it all on the 18 I picked up this week.

Shifting into high doesn’t feel like I’m forcing the shifter into gear, maybe a little more effort than low. Enough to know the difference between the gears without looking.

You can feel the clutch engaging in reverse, but once over 2,000 rpm, 2 mph, it smooths right out.

The work, Std & Perf setting make a big difference in throttle sensitivity.

Alas, the middle cup holders by your shin is probably the only option for the 30oz Yetis.
 
#20 ·
Are any of you getting a lot of noise from the front gearcase? I have a NS and can really hear the front gearcase when driving in 2WD it goes away when I am in 4WD.
 
#22 ·
I just got my Titanium Metallic the other day and so far it appears to be a huge upgrade from my 11 500 Midsize. I don’t have the problems with shifting as others have mentioned but I do feel that the clutch engagement is still pretty jerky. It’s no worse than my old machine, but I was really thinking it would be better. All that said all I’ve been able to do is drive around my back yard so far so more to come I’m sure!
 
#24 · (Edited)
For what it’s worth, my dealer swapped out the hard coat poly windshield for me and replaced it with another one. Same issues, but a bit less pronounced, not as bad as the first one. If you look through the windshield at a fixed object with a straight line and move your head, particularly if you are looking through the windshield at an angle, you can’t miss the warps and warbles on the straight edge. My 7 year old hard coat poly windshield on my 2011 from Curtis has no such issues. Polaris either has some manufacturing issues or this is just a cheap poly they are using IMHO.

My dealer said he did notice it but he thought it was relatively minor. It really bothers me so I’m going to swap out the hard coat poly for glass. I don’t want to spend the $$$ but I also don’t want to get annoyed every time I drive it with what I’m already invested in it for. That and my neighbors might think I have some serious issues if they continually see me bobbing and weaving my head with a *issed off look on my face as I drive by.
 
#30 ·
No shifting issues with my 2018 ranger. Shifts better then my 2016 rzr did. My only complaint so far is waiting on accessories.
 
#32 · (Edited)
FYI, the owners of the 18 XP, There are 2 ( or supposed to be) rubber drain plugs that are on the side of the engine and clutch plastic intake tube. This tube is located under the center removable cover/hump.

If you plan on getting into water that comes over the floor board, I would make sure these plugs are there, and inserted correctly, as well as check all tube connections and make cure the clamps are tight.
 
#37 ·
Yeah, Ruger asked for pics and I did not have any, so while I was watching the video, they showed up, so I took the screenshot, and posted it.

Also remember to check the clamps at the front and back of the intake tubes, make sure all tubes are located and installed correctly.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top