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Building a Race Hauler

7K views 36 replies 9 participants last post by  arcticzale 
#1 ·
Ok guys, lots of expertise on here so I'm throwing out some thoughts and wondering if anyone here has an opinion or experience that can help me complete my list. I'm going to buy a 28' enclosed hauler and am leaning to all aluminum. It'll be used only 5 or 6 times a year and will be ancillary storage for the 'off season' toys to free up space in the garage.

Few things I have on my list are:
6000# torsion axles with spread
16" wheels and radials
Electric Disc Brakes
Multiple in floor D-rings
7'6" interior ceiling height
Front cabinets (overhead at minimum)
Insulated walls and ceiling
Smooth sides (no screws)
Exterior led flood lights
Interior led lights
Rubber Floor covering
A/C and Heat
Additional roof vent
50 amp service w 110 outlets
Windows for cross ventilation and escape door

I may use it for the occasional overnight and if so will always be in an area with bath facilities.

My questions are:

1) Is all aluminum truly worth the premium price?
2) Is there a particular brand I should rule out if going all aluminum?
3) Am I missing options in my list that I can't add myself and would be better off having a factory install?
4) Is flat front better than a V front in a trailer this size?

Thanks in advance for any input you might have, looking to have it by spring so need to get my order in soon.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Tony, by torsion with spread do you mean extra spacing between axles? I ask as the further apart the axles are the more tire scrub you get on sharp turns. This can work the axle stubs over years to the point of failure, had a friend lose one axle end on his enclosed trailer for his sand rail. I think he was probable heavy for the trailer too. It is harder on tires as well.

That being said, spread axles do tow nicely especially if you get the trailer axles fully aligned with each other and the towing point, fith wheel or ball.

I’ve had both V and flat nose. I think the V tows a little better, my current is a 24ft V. I’m slowly setting up similar to your end goal, the V does give a little more interior room for same overall length.

One thing I wish mine had was the extended tongue. I do not have enough room on mine to mount much of anything and still turn decently.

Think about your overal height and what you need for angle of departures for where you will be towing. Mine has regular axles with a 4in drop. It makes it tow great but I have to be careful with getting into gas stations and some campsites. Half the time I’m glad for the drop, half the time I with they were straight.

With your height you shouln’t need a beaver tail. This will make a nicer camper, but double check you door height.

I bought mine from a dealer about 2 hours from my home in downtown Portland Oregon. I checked that the brakes were working. I didn’t check that ALL 4 brakes were working. My tag axle was not. I fixed it myself, but in hindsight I should have down a better initial inspection.

Trailers come with flat and domed roofs. The doomed roofs tend to be better for weathering. That said mine is flat and I am going to be making a rack / deck on top for things like kayaks and light bulky stuff. My trailer sits pretty low for a 6’6” ceiling and I did need a beaver tail since mine is lower than yours will be. With my beaver tail I have the same 6’6” door height as the ceiling heigh.

Some manufactures offer integrated rear jacks. Not the screw type, but pin types that are really fast. This is a great option and I highly reccomend them if available to you. My 20’ flatbed has them and it make it much easier to get the Ranger in and out. Drop the jacks, drop the door and your ready. You can still level with shimming left or right as needed and using the tongue jack for front to real leveling.

If you can have a 110v external outlets on both sides. You never know how your trailer may ended up oriented and it is nice and handy.

If you need AC, then think about an awning. I made one that works really well for my old enclosed trailer but an RV type is way easier to use and seals nicely against rain and snow.

If I could have afforded aluminum I would have. Not only for the weight but also since I live on the coast the corrosion resistance.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Good ideas Scott, certainly adding to my list here. I don't want a large spread, just slightly larger than the standard tear drop wheel well. I have a topper on my truck so I'm going to stay with a bumper pull, and probably add skids/wheels to the rear even though it won't have a drop in the rear for my door clearance.


Hi Tony
I'm adding to your list 2 hanging spare tires on the outside, one for the trailer and maybe one for the ranger.
Fifth wheel with domed ceilings for side and front winds.
Maybe you can shove a mattress on top of the fifth wheel with a side window so you can go and rest if need.
A 2 ft high bottom front diamond plate for strength and flying rocks
Some E-track or X-track rail system so you can strap stuff to the side walls won't hurt.
Good ideas Ron, if I could get the all the gear out of the back of my truck and still keep it with me I'd remove my topper and go 5th wheel. But I can't see that happening, I keep too much 'emergency' gear on board.

I did think about the e-track, would be nice to have the flexibility for securing cargo. Also thought about carpet partially on the sidewalls, for protection. You're certainly right on the diamond plate, my trucks Nitto Terra Grappler tires throw up a lot of rocks and I'd hate to have the front of the trailer show it.

Thinking it makes sense for me to have a flat roof since I'm going higher but I want 16"o.c. roof supports instead of the 24"o.c. that seems to be popular with the domed roof. I may regret it but shoveling roofs isn't new to me, just have to make sure I remember to do it. :)

The solar charger makes a lot of sense as well, would make for one less drop cord coming out of the shop. :victorious:

Appreciate the input gentlemen, looks like the build list is growing. Now it's time to think about which manufacturer to go with...
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi Tony
I'm adding to your list 2 hanging spare tires on the outside, one for the trailer and maybe one for the ranger.
Fifth wheel with domed ceilings for side and front winds.
Maybe you can shove a mattress on top of the fifth wheel with a side window so you can go and rest if need.
A 2 ft high bottom front diamond plate for strength and flying rocks
Some E-track or X-track rail system so you can strap stuff to the side walls won't hurt.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
Only suggestion is not to not worry about the D-Rings but instead have the E- Track Setup installed. I have 3 rows of E-track on the floor (one center and one on each side 1' from the wall) and 2 on each wall (One at 3'H and one at 6'H). They make tie down points so versatile and anything from tool hangers, shelving, to trash cans that utilize the E-track setup. I had mine installed at the factory, so the floor runs were welded into the frame and countersunk into the floor to keep everything strong and flat.
 
#9 ·
Thanks Josh, I appreciate your input here. Unfortunately I talked with ATC, Haulmark, Legend, and Becker about getting a trailer built to my specs. The shortest lead time for any of them was 12 weeks (which bodes well for the economy I suppose), but doesn't fit my impatient schedule.

Given the order time I spent a few hours searching trailers in stock online and found an all aluminum 2017 leftover 28' American Hauler with most of the options I required and some I hadn't considered. The trailer actually has a concession door and window setup on the driver side, while not my ideal choice of options I can add everything else I want. I got a great price from the dealer down in Ohio so Mrs Arctic and myself made the trip down and picked it up yesterday.

The dealership hosts Agricultural Auctions and used this trailer on site as a demo of what options they can get. It had a couple flaws but nothing that was too bad, just have to remove their wrap from it.

Couldn't pass this deal up as it was a used price for a 'brand new' warranty covered unit. It's fully insulated with A/C, heat, finished white interior, rubber coin floor, 6000# dexter torsions and 16" 8 lug wheels, small spread, front cabinets, some e track, escape door, windows, 7'6" interior height, scene lighting and even a removable stainless counter on the passenger side. Going to need to spend some time adding some options I had to forego, but it has 50 amp hookup and a big inverter so that'll work for now in lieu of the fixed generator.

Again, thank you all for the input and ideas. Going to get my list of add ons ordered soon. But for now we're under a winter storm warning and I will be getting the tracks on the Ranger. :biggrin:
 

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#10 ·
We want more pictures :)
 
#11 ·

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#13 ·
Wow. Really nice!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Saaweeeeet! Where's the beer tap and coke dispenser going?!
 
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#18 ·
Yep...we want progress reports!
 
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#20 ·
Too late, you can't tease us and not make this a build thread!


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Welp, progress part 1 - the wife found a new couch/dinette setup from a Grey Wolf trailer on Craigslist and we're going to be creating a Toy Hauler. Build Thread it is. :biggrin:
Room Property Building Vehicle Furniture
 
#19 ·


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#21 · (Edited)
Parts for the trailer build are rolling in and the FedEx and UPS guy are still denying beers when they swing in daily. Made a trip down below(lower Michigan - below the Mackinac bridge) to see some family and catch a Spartan hockey game. While we were cruising around burning fuel we went to a place called Bontrager's Surplus down by the Indiana border. They have 5 barns filled with leftover inventory from a lot of the RV manufacturers down in that area. We'll likely be making a trip back in the future because I wasn't prepared for the volume of inventory and selection they had. Need to plan with a purpose before I go back.

Did manage to pick up a few items. 4 of the 5 buildings are Not heated, which sucked today, but they have everything you would need for an RV, I mean everything. Snatched a deal on some new aluminum wheels for $60/each including center caps, a Furrion DV3300 DVD/Bluetooth/CD/MP3 player for audio and video feed, and fire extinguishers w/mounts. Kinda overwhelming how much they have there.

Too cold (-34°F true temp this a.m.) to be out working on it now so I'm just going to keep collecting parts and planning the full build out for when the temps get more hospitable to be out without mittens.
 

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#22 ·
Love seeing the build - please keep it up. I will add that surplus sales place to my bookmarks. Would like to pick through their stuff....
 
#23 ·
It is worth it to make a trip if you have a plan when you go, I got sidetracked by the endless inventory. Could build a whole camper with everything there, down to the trim and fittings. Probably not that far around the lake for you - just have to battle the Chicago traffic so plan accordingly.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Made a trip to Lowe's and they had a sale on some Berber carpet Mrs Arcticz liked, going to use it for lining the lower part of the side walls. Want to protect it from scuffs and make it a little more comfortable. Going to do an aluminum divider strip with recessed LED up lighting on the top edge. Should be a cool effect with the white walls and ceiling.
 

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#25 ·
It says 4.5 hrs to Bontragers, so not too bad - just like driving to the UP to chase Mr Ruff and Timberdoodle in the fall. Heck I drive to Grand Marias, MN for meetings and back the same day. I poked around their website, but I think it’s a trip to see what they have and gather ideas, and a second trip after I figure out what I want to do!
 
#26 · (Edited)
Got the Vinyl wrap removed and burnt the heck out of my knuckles in the process, but it was a nice day at my folks place down below so I spent some time with my dad and brother while we were waiting for Michigan State to play.

Transport Vehicle Trailer Automotive exterior Cargo


Took the trailer and had the new wheels put on then moved on to getting the convertible dinette installed.

The interior width of my trailer is 3" wider than the Grey Wolf toy hauler they came out of so had a buddy of mine plane a couple of 2x6 to a true 1.5" width to make sure the table would drop onto the supports when converted to a bed.

Used 3 aluminum RivNuts in each of the trailer uprights(16"o.c.) with stainless bolts to hold the supports for the benches. Because this is on the interior I figure the electrolytic corrosion will be minimal and any reaction will be on the RivNuts not the trailer structure. This should be good for at least 10 years of service before replacing them. I coated the stainless bolts with some loktite for more peace of mind. Had to make new legs for the rear most supports out of new 1"o.d. square stock to account for the floor slope of the beavertail. Just transferred hardware from the original legs. The table had enough adjustment on the feet of the base stands to account for the beavertail.

Hoping I get some time to get the LP and electrical done for the stereo and TVs soon so I can get the carpet and e-track up. Here's a couple of pictures of the dinette:

Furniture Property Room Floor Living room


Property Room Furniture Vehicle Trailer


Room Vehicle Furniture Car Building
 
#27 · (Edited)
Working on getting the e-track in today along with the wall carpet. I'm pretty pleased with the way this carpet is changing the look of the whole interior. Decided against the anodized trim along the carpet, e-track will be functional. I will use some aluminum trim up high for hiding the indirect led lighting.

Bumper Automotive exterior Technology Floor


Property Room Building Kitchen House
 
#28 · (Edited)
Alright, I'm pretty capable when it comes to 12v wiring but can't for the life of me figure out what to do with the wiring for this entry handle. I installed it and have the switches for the interior and exterior just inside and aft of the handle. Tested the 3 wires on the switch for the interior 12v lights (2 switch setup with front and rear switches) it has a blue/yellow/black wire combination. Had 10v power between the blue and a chassis ground, but went to 1.2v when the switch was turned on. The black wire didn't work as a ground, nor was it constant power. I tried using the 2 wires to the switch for the exterior area lights (blue and yellow again) but ended up with a back feed and partial illumination of the area lights. Then when the lights were switched on they took all draw from the handle led and it didn't illuminate.

If anyone knows how the 12v color wire diagram looks in a rv/trailer for the Coach 12v circuit I'd appreciate some help. I'm at a loss other than running a designated circuit. Maybe I'm just being lazy and should just do that. But any input would be appreciated.

Door handle Handle Metal


Automotive exterior Glass Door Trailer Vehicle door


*** figured it out. ***

Text Font Line Technology Electronic device
 
#29 ·
Updates on progress: Started do some dry fits for parts install for the LP storage system and battery boxes. Ended up having to relocate the Breakaway switch and battery box to fit the weight distribution brackets.
Trailer Vehicle Tool Boat trailer Wheel
Trailer Asphalt Road Vehicle Wheel


Machine Gas Trailer Vehicle


The length of the tongue didn't give me a lot of room for the manual jack so I replaced that with a Husky 4500# electric tongue jack. This managed to free up enough space for the 20# lp tanks and battery boxes.

Scientific instrument Optical instrument Enlarger Room Photography


Water Gas Propane


Room Trailer Wheel


I used 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum channel to make the mounts for the battery boxes. A relief cut in the middle allowed me to follow the angle of the rounded front on the trailer.
 
#30 ·
Now that the storage for the LP is in place I ran the line from the regulator to the coach. I used flexible LP line from the regulator to the body, then soft copper with the proper flared connections up to the quick connect at the front cabinet.

Metal



One note, if you use hard cover for your LP tanks and have issues losing the top cover - the alternate holes for mounting offer a great place to run zipties through:

Snow Winter



This will provide access to the quick connect for the Aussie Grill to be used inside or out and offer a point of connection for the Olympian Wave 8 Catalytic heater when the weather turns.

Fire extinguisher
 
#32 ·
This LED trim has an upward facing LED strip in it. I'm going to put RGB strips in with a controller, should make for a fun way to change the atmosphere when we're hanging out at camp.

Wall Room Floor Ceiling


Room Building Ceiling Vehicle Interior design


Found a tote in the garage with some extra LED supplies, even had about 150 ft of EL wire that I forgot I had.

Plastic Plastic bag Plastic wrap
 
#33 ·
Coming along nicely Tony! Can't go wrong with carbon fiber. 3M 1080 is nice stuff to work with.
 
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#34 · (Edited)
Didn't want to put E-Track on the road side door so no carpet went on it. Decided to have AJWallpaper make a canvas print of Pine Mountain to break up the 5'x8' white surface. Still need to decide if I'll tolerate it. It came out okay, the wife likes it and really that's all that matters.

Transport Mural Painting

Roof Shade Glass Window Automotive exterior


Of course the stereo console can't just be simple, nothing ever works out that way for me. This is where I'm mounting the main control panel for the switches and the DVD/CD/Stereo unit. This is being constructed with 3/4" Melamine coated HDF board.

Room Wall Kitchen Furniture Tile


Picked up a cheap 10" powered sub from Rockville to accompany the amplifier I'll be using to power my remote speakers.

Product Audio equipment Subwoofer Electronics Loudspeaker



I am building fiberglass dual speaker pods to house 2x 6.5" coaxials each. Making them portable to have the option to move them to the exterior when we're boon-docking. That's going to be time consuming so it may be a while before I update again.
 
#36 ·
Looking Good! Love watching the build progress.

-Rob
 
#37 · (Edited)
Simple project for this evening, put in a window with shade built in. It's a piece from AP Products, part number 015-201512 - Entry Door Window Assembly Complete w/ Integrated Slim Shade.

Trailer Horse trailer Window Travel trailer Vehicle



Install was simple, cut the shipping box for the hole template and trace pattern onto the door.

White Wall Atmospheric phenomenon Daytime Ceiling


Before removing the template drill your pilot holes through the template and entire door. Then take the template to the outside and reverse it so the holes line up. That will ensure your placement is correct on the exterior.

Then I used a scissor shear to cut the metal out, surprised that the outside was double layered so it was a little harder to cut. Had to use a hacksaw blade by hand to remove the foam insulation.

Door Home door Room Horse trailer Vehicle


Then mount the exterior piece with the glass in it. I taped it and had Mrs Arcticz hold the glass in place while I masking taped the glass and frame to the outer panel. Switched places and had her apply pressure to the glass and frame from the exterior while I installed the shade and inner frame. The outer frame came with the butyl preinstalled for the glass and outer frame so it saved time. Great product if you ask me.

Vehicle Door Trailer
 
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