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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there. I'm new here as I just bought my first ranger.
So about 2 months ago I purchased a 2007 Ranger 500 Efi 4x4 non running. Unfortunately it is still non running and I wonder if you folks have any ideas for me. So when I got the ranger home I tried starting it and it would start but only run for about a second before shutting off. The air cleaner was missing, so I gave the intake and throttle body a good cleaning. Still no change. I did figure out it would run on starting fluid.

Next I checked the fuel pressure which was at 22 psi. After installing a new I fuel pump I had 40 psi and good flow. Still would start and not run!! I did pull the intake out and tested the injector by holding it over a piece of paper while cranking. It sprayed what I thought was a good pattern and quantity of fuel. I checked the pump and it does stay running till just after the engine dies, so it is not kicking out.

So after reading about the sensor connector issues, I checked out the wires and found a couple that were rubbed really bad. Repaired wires and checked resistance from the ecm connector under the seat to all the sensor plugs and they all checked out good. Still won't run!

When I was running the engine on starting fluid, I noticed that it smoked really bad so I did a leak down test which indicated Bad rings. I was at a loss what else to try and I knew the engine could use it anyhow so I went ahead and did a top end rebuild with a new wiseco piston and a new bore. The engine STILL starts for a second but WONT STAY RUNNING!

After carefully rechecking the wires and doing a sensor ohm check according to the service manual, I decided to try another ecm. Ordered a used Ecm from a good running 500efi from eBay. Still won't stay running. I also ordered a good used throttle body and intake with all the sensors and an injector. Still no change.

I'm really at a loss here. If someone has any ideas- experience with these machines and or this issue please help me out here! I'm about burned out on this thing.
 

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2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
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If the fuel was E-10 there is a strong likelihood that it has undergone phase separation. Start by draining the tank and replacing the fuel with fresh non ethanol fuel. Ethanol in fuel causes the fuel to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. When moisture is absorbed it combines with the ethanol in the fuel causing the water to separate out and settle to the bottom of the tank, right where the fuel pick up is. When you drain the tank if the contents are put in a clear container and allowed to sit for a few minutes the separation will be clearly visible. In addition, ethanol based fuels lose octane rating quickly.

A weak or internally shorted battery will give you fits. Fully charge the battery and take it to the auto parts store for a load test. If it fails or shows weak, replace it.

Running with no air cleaner is a bad sign. Ingestion of dirt and grit will ruin rings in short order. Run a compression test or better yet a cylinder leak down test. The latter will not only give a good indication of ring/cylinder wear but will also diagnose valve leakage as well as a bad head gasket, leakage of compression into the cooling system and holed pistons.

Take a look at the spark plugs and compare them to pictures of spark plugs available on the Internet. Diagnostically, a great deal can be learned by reading spark plugs.

Beyond these things there are any number of other possible causes, both mechanical and electrical. It could be something as simple as a bad ignition switch or broken/shorted wire that intermittently makes contact.

Check all plug in connections for corrosion, or poor contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you.
I did drain the tank when I bought it and filled with fresh premium gas which has only been in the machine a few weeks....

Battery is brand new.

Have already rebuilt the piston and rings. The rings were very bad.

The spark plug comes out dry which leads me to believe it's not getting enough fuel??

Thanks for the reply!
 

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I guess I didn't read your original post completely and missed the part where you did a top end rebuild. I apologize.

Pie in the sky, did you check the exhaust and spark arrestor screen to be certain the exhaust isn't plugged?

Otherwise I'm out of answers other than to continue to check wiring and switches.

Hopefully someone else will speak up with some more specific answers.
 

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I have one question. How did you actuate the injector solenoid? If you externally applied voltage, try checking that plug for voltage when cranking the ignition switch. No voltage, no fuel. I hope this helps,
 

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I didn't read it well enough either or forgot that he cranked it.

Are the intake valves opening at the right time? That might explain the dry plugs. Is the injector spraying at the right time? That could also explain dry plugs. Starting fluid sprays send large amounts of fluid over a longer time down the throttle body allowing fuel to enter the combustion chamber as long as the intake valves open sometime in the cycle. It's never fun sorting a mess like you have been doing there, last resort is pull the engine and have it done by a reman firm.
 

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I'm going to second Pyro on the exhaust if for nothing else you can easily test by removing two springs holding the pipe on if like my 500.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so today I pulled a fuel sample to check for water. Looked fine no water.

Pulled the muffler off, no change.

Pulled the valve cover off and rechecked timing and valve clearance.

I decided to run a test on the injector plug.
Results: the constant power from pdm comes on with the key and goes off after the key is shut off.
The signal ground coming from the Ecm showed a pulse. I then started the machine on starting fluid while still testing the signal ground. It still sent a pulse to the injector but the instant the engine started the signal stopped!

Something is telling the ecm to cut fuel as soon as the engine enters run mode......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so today I pulled a fuel sample to check for water. Looked fine no water.

Pulled the muffler off, no change.

Pulled the valve cover off and rechecked timing and valve clearance.

I decided to run a test on the injector plug.
Results: the constant power from pdm comes on with the key and goes off after the key is shut off.
The signal ground coming from the Ecm showed a pulse. I then started the machine on starting fluid while still testing the signal ground. It still sent a pulse to the injector but the instant the engine started the signal stopped!

Something is telling the ecm to cut fuel as soon as the engine enters run mode......
 

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You have really cleared the stage now. We are looking for the sensors that tell the ECM to stop fuel. One that might be present is a roll over sensor. Another might be the TBAP or the TPS. The list goes on. Notorious inside the insulation wire breaks on the last two. Others with more knowledge on the sensor wiring will need to chime in.
 

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I looked at this from another direction. Perhaps something is not triggering the ECM fuel pulse. A pulse signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor is processed by the ECM which determines ignition and fuel timing by calculating from a point pre-determined in the crankshaft rotation. Could that be the problem, maybe, but it is certainly a player we have not talked about.
 

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A bad ignition switch will sometimes cause this shut off but I am assuming that you know that the computer always stops the fuel pump after a no-start or kill situation in case of a roll over etc. so as not to feed fuel to a fire.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I have checked the ohms and the air gap on the cps. I have been ruling the cps out as it will run fine on ether, but maybe I am missing something there.

Yes, I Am also suspicious of the ignition switch. But once again it does run on ether in the run position??
Also I have tried holding it in the start position after it starts and it still dies.

Anyone have a good ignition test diagram? Thanks all
 

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Did the Thottle Position Sensor (TPS) get removed and cleaned?
If not don't remove it. It is located on the throttle body and operated directly off the end of the throttle shaft (Butterfly).

The TPS works like a rheostat, varying the voltage signal to the ECU in direct correlation to the angle of the throttle plate (engine load). This signal is processed by the ECU and compared to the internal pre-programmed maps to determine the required fuel and ignition settings for the amount of engine load. The initial position of the TPS is established and set at the factory.

If the TPS is repositioned, replaced or loosened it must be initialized.

This might be your issue, someone may know how to reinitialize that sensor, unfortunately I do not.
 

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I found this, I hope it helps.

Polaris ATV Technical Discussions
ATV Repair and Maintenance
Guide for TPS Adjustment and Testing -- 2010 and Earlier EFI Models

09:34 PM 03-09-2012

Typically this would only be done if the base voltage screw on the TPS has been tampered with, the TPS has been moved or replaced, you have reason to believe this step needs to be done or if you're at the end of your rope and have ruled out everything else. (1) Remove throttle cable cover on the side of the throttle body and then disconnect the throttle cable. Be careful to not drop the brass barrel on the end of the cable. That part cannot be bought separately from the T/B if you lose it (don't ask how I know).
(2) Back off the idle set screw (shown in pic' above) until it no longer makes contact with the throttle cable cam. This should allow the butterfly to close completely. (3) Clean the butterfly inside the T/B with carb cleaner and make sure that it closes completely (that's important for accurate readings). (4) Check the operation range of the TPS. Using the same probe connections as below, change your meter to the lowest setting that you have above 3.6 volts (this will be 12 volts on most meters). Keep in mind this is a very sensitive sensor and very slight movements will produce large changes. It should go smoothly from 0 volts closed to 3.6 volts at WOT ( wide open throttle ). It should do so very smoothly, without any gaps, peaks, or valleys. If it has an abrupt jump or drop in voltage within a very small movement area, the sensor may be bad and needs to be replaced: TPS:#2410342
(5) To set the base voltage, verify that the butterfly is completely closed, loosen the torx screw on the TPS and rotate the sensor until you reach .528 volts. Tighten the screw down and verify the voltage again, making sure that the butterfly is completely closed for that reading. This is a difficult step because the sensor wants to move as you tighten down the set screw. (6) Reinstall the throttle cable and cover, then adjust the idle voltage to the proper volts as described below. Doing the adjustments is typically easier if you have a second person to hold the meter probes...

These steps can be done without the special Polaris TPS tool; however I did buy the recommended special idle screw tool from KMS because needle nose pliers nearly messed up my screw to the point of being unusable. You CANNOT guess or assume other years' specs will work. Make sure you have the right specs or you can cause permanent damage to your engine. I take no credit for this. You can find the original web page here: Side X Side World :: View topic - Polaris: TPS Adjustment 2010 and older

TPS Adjustment procedure 2005-2010 XPs:
By: commanderjjones aka Jerry

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor:
The TPS is located on the passenger side of the throttle body. It tells the ECU how far open the butterfly in the throttle body is. If the TPS goes bad it can make the machine run erratically, or cause a hesitation at certain rpm’s. The only way to test the TPS is to use the tool Polaris designed to test it, or back-probe the yellow wire at the connector with a multi-meter and watch the voltage as you run up the throttle. It should climb smoothly, not erratically. Its hard to do as the numbers on the multi-meter will run up quickly.

(1) Find the yellow wire leading to the TPS and carefully pierce the insulation with the positive lead of your multi-meter (make sure that you seal that bare spot when finished). If you want to do it "right" and not pierce the wire insulation, you can buy the Polaris TPS adjustment harness ( Polaris part # 2201519-A ), which simply "T's" into the existing harness plug.
(2) Connect the negative lead of your meter to a good ground on the Ranger (the engine will work.....no need to go all the way to the battery).
(3) Set your multi-meter to the lowest setting that you have above .660 volts to get the most accurate reading ( many have a 2 volt setting and that will work great ).
(4) Turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should be seeing the proper volts for your year: RZR: 08 = .735 +/- .010 vdc 09 = .730 +/- .010 vdc 10 = .690 - .730 vdc Ranger: 05/07 – (700cc) = .710 vdc 06/08/09 – (700cc) = .660 vdc 10 – (800cc) = .690 - .730 vdc If the voltage is outside of that range, turn the idle voltage adjustment screw on the left front of the throttle body ( directly above the throttle cable ) until you have the desired voltage.

Although the screw is designed to require a special tool ( Polaris part # PU-47315 ), it can be done with needle nose pliers.
(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks!
I did check the output voltage and its in the range for my machine.

At this point it seems to me like I have a vacuum leak or possibly BOTH of my ECMs are bad with exactly the same issue?
 

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To be sure might want a new one or one from a vehicle that works. The dealer tech said wires man 80% of the time he finds a bad wire or connection is the problem, then handed the phone back to the parts guy I was talking to. The parts guy said Sam is almost never wrong. I hope a good working ECM fixes it for ya. Not much left to look at, but every confounded wire inch by inch...
 
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