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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks again for your help!
Before I bought the used one I did message the guy I bought this one from and he confirmed it came from a " strong running 500". Now I do know we are taking his word for it, but the odds are long that I would have 2 with the same problem.... Perhaps buying a new one would be cheaper than taking it to the dealer though.

I'm going to take another shot at looking for vacuum leaks and do some more wire checking and then I'm about all out of ideas. I'm sure it's something simple but can't seem to put my finger on it.
 

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. Perhaps buying a new one would be cheaper than taking it to the dealer though.

You buy them new from Polaris with NO PROGRAM installed and the stealers require you to bring in the Ranger when THEY flash them.
 
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. Perhaps buying a new one would be cheaper than taking it to the dealer though.

You buy them new from Polaris with NO PROGRAM installed and the stealers require you to bring in the Ranger when THEY flash them.
Or you hang out on the site and eventually fix it. Usually cheaper. Called the learning curve! People here have more experience than the stealers. I'd be checking that switch.
 

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Jungleman mentioned the 2 second start/fuel. Same on the hr meter. According to the pdm it shuts down if not running. Losing options here, but getting used to it!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok let me cover my injector test results with a bit more detail.

So if I crank the engine with the injector plugged in the engine will start and die. If I unplug it and test the signal ground from the ecm to the injector the injector will fire for approximately 10 revolutions, then is dead for 10 revolutions, and then fires for another 10. I'm assuming this is the engine start program in the ecm.

If I do the same test and give it some ether, the engine starts up and the signal to the injector is IMMEDIATELY shut off.

The book says that on startup, the Efi system is in waste spark, waste fuel mode, until the ecm gets a vacuum reading from the map sensor which tells it when the engine is on the intake stroke. At which point it switches over to running with map sensor. It looks to me like whenever it tries to switch to run mode something is triggering this shutoff.

I have swapped the map sensor and double checked the sensor wires and ohm checked them from the sensor to the ecm. I have checked for vacuum leaks by spraying around the intake and throttle body.

I can't seem to find an ohm test in my manual for the key switch but as near as I can tell it seems to be working properly.

Sorry if I repeat myself here, just trying to clear some cobwebs out my head.. I have been working at this thing off and on now for over a month.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Good idea on that key switch. I pulled it apart and one of the legs and a couple of the contacts look pretty worn down. When I compared the part number from my key switch to the one listed on partzilla.com I realized they didn't match up!? The switch in my machine is a 4 position switch #4012166. The part number for my machine on partzilla comes up as #4011002. I'm assuming as worn as the one is in my machine is, that is has quite a few hrs on it. Not sure if a 3 and 4 position switch interchange ?

Anyhow I ordered a 3 position off eBay so when it gets here next week I will give it a shot.
 

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Yes...........
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I got the new key switch in today. Installed it in the machine and...........it runs!!!!!

Many thanks to you guys for helping me out here! I really appreciate it.

After getting the machine all assembled I was able to take it on a test drive and check things out. The machine won't idle low enough to get the transmission in gear unless I pick up on the throttle pedal. Assuming I need a new cable or spring? Also at approx midrange rpm there is a pretty good vibration. The clutch on the engine has a fair amount of slop in it. Does anyone know anything about rebuilding clutches? Maybe that is normal for this machine?

The 4x4 does work as well as the diff lock. Didn't seem to be any loud cv joints.
Thanks again for the help!
 

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Thanks for the follow up. I hate it when a thread is left open ended and we don't learn what resolved the issue/s. I wouldn't worry much about the clutch engagement or vibration. That is standard equipment with a 500... Congrats on the fix!
 

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Nice job. It's amazing how much you learn working on these things yourself...and how painful it is...and how gratifying when your successful.
 

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Nice job. It's amazing how much you learn working on these things yourself...and how painful it is...and how gratifying when your successful.
I had this exact same issue on an 07 Sportsman 500 X2 and just wanted to say I appreciate everyone's input and hard work on this!

Long story short:
Bought the bike from someone who had worked on it and couldn't get it running. It would start up, but the fuel injector stayed on permanently once the key was on so it would flood and die.

Replaced PCM and entire wiring harness, same fuel injector issue. Fuel injector problem was fixed with a working used ECU.

Still would start and die right away. Would stay running with ether. Would backfire when trying to give it throttle. Replaced entire throttle body, same thing. Took to the dealer and they had no clue.

Read this thread and put in a new 3-position switch instead of the 4-position that was in the machine. Fired right up and stayed running.

Thanks again everyone!!
 
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