[cj4]

I have an 08 Ranger Crew 700 efi. Thing drives great but started last summer with the hard to start and idle problem. Have to put one foot on the brake and one on the gas pedal a bit to get it started. I did the following:

1. Changed the plugs last year, helped but no fix.

2. Read the forums about setting the TPS and I ordered the harness kit and tool to adjust the D screw.

3. Go to set the TPS voltage and the sucker reads 3.8 - 4.3 volts......YES, I set the multimeter just like the directions said to 20 dcv. I even tried another meter. I tried adjusting the base voltage as well by loosening the screw on the TPS sensor and moved it from all the way one way to the other........no drastic change, again from about 3.8 - 4.3 not .5??. I've read where this should ultimately be about .660 or so on this model.

4. I took the throttle body off both hoses so I could get to it easy and cleaned it good inside with carb cleaner. Verified the butterfly was in fully closed position.

5. Took the Tbap sensor out and carefully cleaned it with some CRC electrical cleaner with a Qtip. Cleaned the inside of the rubber boot it fits in.

6. So I gave up and adjusted the TPS base and the D screw til I could get approx. 1150 rpms at idle but it's running real rich at an idle. It will start now without a lot of trouble but it's just not right.

7. One thing I haven't checked is for codes since I just learned how to do that tonight after reading and my machine is at the lake house.

I keep thinking after reading all of these posts about the Tbap wiring harness problems and maybe even a TPS wiring problem but doesn't this sound like a bad TPS sensor??? I don't mind spending the money to fix it but I hate to replace high dollar stuff and it's not the problem.

 

[commanderjjones]

If you're getting that voltage and have followed the adjustment instructions to the letter, then it sounds like the TPS is bad.

 

[POS POLARIS]

CJ,

I think you're getting your readings off of the wrong wire. sounds like you're plugged into the wire that's providing the input voltage to the sensor, which should be around 4-5 volts. the output voltage at idle should be around .660.

I'd make sure you got the correct wire. with an output voltage that you described, your engine would immediately go to WOT and never idle at all.

Check the yellow wire on the harness side, not the sensor side of the harness. if you've put a repair harness on it, and they're all white, trace them back till you've found which one is yellow, and test it. let us know what you find!

 

[Rsullivan]

Any way the intake boot leaking alittle I had to change mine. I got 350 hrs in my 08. Mine did that a time or too, spark plugs, wires, and a fuel pump the 1st one, and final I took off the throttle body and cleaned it really good and worked great. My biggest problem is all my connections get corroded up , my main harness plug I had four pin eat up that they broke off. Anyway good luck

 

[cj4]

Thanks Jerry and Adam for responding.

Adam, I'm a little confused, I thought that's why I purchased the harness repair kit, ie: so I wouldn't have to pierce any wires and it would give me leads out to test? I'm sure you're exactly correct though.

So when you say check it on the harness side and not the sensor side that confuses me a bit, I followed the TPS harness from the TPS sensor til there was the first plug connection point and unplugged it there and inserted the Harness repair kit inline. Where I unplugged it, is that where I should find the yellow wire? Or are you saying follow the TPS harness until it goes into the main harness and find a yellow wire in the main harness?

 

[Jungleman]

" I purchased the harness repair kit"

cj, so you purchased a TEST HARNESS POLARIS RZR TPS Adjustment Tool and get 3.0 + voltage readings when you insert into the test leads ?

 

[cj4]

Yes sir Kris. Purchased from KMS

 

[Jungleman]

Yes sir Kris. Purchased from KMS

If it were mine, before I bought a new TPS, I would remove the test harness and try the Fred Flintstone TPS test method and back probe the yellow wire on the TPS harness with the red probe and ground the black one on the engine. If I still got 3 something volts, I would order a new TPS cuz it is bad..........

 

[cj4]

Sounds like what I need to do......thanks!

 

[POS POLARIS]

Yep, Kris figured out what I was trying to say-

When I tested the TPS units on your model ranger, I never unhooked anything. I left the tps connected, then used a backprobe to slip into the back of the connector on the main engine harness side where the yellow wire goes in. Use the red lead from your tester. ground the black. Then turn the key on and you'll be able to get readings. That's the best way I've found for testing them... I have pierced the yellow wire before as well to get a reading, but it's not so good for the wire and might give it a place to break later. if you do that, be sure and put a little silicone on the pierce point.

The repair harness is just for simply that. if you have some wire break on the harness near the connector, that harness will replace the broken end and get you back in business again.

Best of luck

 

[cj4]

Well guys, here's what I've found.

1. You guys were correct, that diagnostics cable was useless, it wasn't hooked into the yellow wire for some reason. I Probed the yellow wire without the diagnostic harness on and I got proper reading on the TPS. I screwed out the throttle "D" screw most all the way and set the base to approximately .580 dcv then adjusted my throttle adjustment "D" screw but here lies still a problem.

2. If I set the TPS to .660 the thing will not even start. I have to adjust it to approx. .800 to get it to start and run and idle. The idle is still erratic and poor but is from 1000 to 1160 rpm and it's still running rich.

3. I got into the diagnostics (turn key on and off and leave on at the 3rd time). I'm getting codes 45 & 41 which I've seen threads on here that says the Tbap sensor or wiring is an issue. (my manual says 41(Intake Air Temp Sensor) & 45 (Barometric Pressure Sensor). I'm assuming this is the same as the Tbap everyone talks about. So, I pulled the rubber boot the the sensor is attach to so I could get to the wiring plug easier and unplugged it and for some reason found these 4 little wires has some areas the insulation is stripped and bare.

Didn't appear they were touching anything so I started examining with a multimeter for continuity and found the orange wire was broken right at the back of the connector inside the insulation. It pulled right off the back of the connector and you could easily see 1/2" of hollow insulation with no wire. I'm assuming this is my problem getting the idle to adjust to the proper setting and getting this thing to idle proper??? What do I do now? I suppose I need a new harness because I can't even splice into this connector and this wiring goes into the main loom and there is no connector at the other end.

 

[Jungleman]

Well guys, here's what I've found.

1. You guys were correct, that diagnostics cable was useless, it wasn't hooked into the yellow wire for some reason. I Probed the yellow wire without the diagnostic harness on and I got proper reading on the TPS. I screwed out the throttle "D" screw most all the way and set the base to approximately .580 dcv then adjusted my throttle adjustment "D" screw but here lies still a problem.

2. If I set the TPS to .660 the thing will not even start. I have to adjust it to approx. .800 to get it to start and run and idle. The idle is still erratic and poor but is from 1000 to 1160 rpm and it's still running rich.

3. I got into the diagnostics (turn key on and off and leave on at the 3rd time). I'm getting codes 45 & 41 which I've seen threads on here that says the Tbap sensor or wiring is an issue. (my manual says 41(Intake Air Temp Sensor) & 45 (Barometric Pressure Sensor). I'm assuming this is the same as the Tbap everyone talks about. So, I pulled the rubber boot the the sensor is attach to so I could get to the wiring plug easier and unplugged it and for some reason found these 4 little wires has some areas the insulation is stripped and bare.

Didn't appear they were touching anything so I started examining with a multimeter for continuity and found the orange wire was broken right at the back of the connector inside the insulation. It pulled right off the back of the connector and you could easily see 1/2" of hollow insulation with no wire. I'm assuming this is my problem getting the idle to adjust to the proper setting and getting this thing to idle proper??? What do I do now? I suppose I need a new harness because I can't even splice into this connector and this wiring goes into the main loom and there is no connector at the other end.

Only The Best

CJ, Order up a OTB-POL-045-05 tah go...........

Try the factory .528 base setting on the TPS first . .580 is kinda way out there. You may get lucky.............After you install the new OTB harness, lets see what you got on the TPS with the factory settings. I have seen many bad TBAP harnesses changed and idle/start problems still remain because of a bad TPS wire or a bad TPS.

 

[cj4]

Kris,

That OTB part doesn't quite look like the same connector, is that just the pic?

 

[Jungleman]

Kris,

That OTB part doesn't quite look like the same connector, is that just the pic?

That is the one. 4 wire and flat plug is the TBAP..........The TPS is triangular and has 3 wires.

Click On Image For Full Size View	Part Number	Fault codes and symptoms of faulty harnesses. Blink Codes only applicable for pre-2009 Vehicles.	Vehicle Application	Price
4 Pin T-BAP Harness	OTB-POL-045-05	Blink Codes 41, 45, 46. SPN 102 FMI 3, 4, 2 SPN 105 FMI 3, 4 Engine will run poorly, no power, poor idle, engine miss. ​	All 2004.5 - Present Twin Cylinder Polaris Vehicles. Does NOT fit 2013 XP900 RZR. Please do a visual comparison to make sure you are ordering the correct part.	$38.99 ​

 

[POS POLARIS]

.580 is WAY out there!

You'll notice the idle start to be rich if you go beyond about .534 - .538...... I always shot for .528 to .532. if you get that setting right, it should idle fine at .660 ish

Gotta start there before replacing anything else so you know what you have.

 

[Jungleman]

TBAP harness................muey bad.....

 

[cj4]

Is that the same?

 

[cj4]

Dang, I didn't mean to take up a whole page with that pic

 

[Jungleman]

That is it. No bout adoubt it..

 

[cj4]

Ok, I'll get it. Gotta have get that on first before I can get anything adjust correct because the orange wire is definitely broke in that Tbap connector. I'm thinking that's why I can't get the TPS adjusted correct to a good start and idle.