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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm doing front wheel bearings, right side went easy, left side not so much. My problem is the splines are froze in the hub, now I've tried everything including a puller and my 1/2in drive impact, I'm stopping short of getting out the inch drive cause it will just break something. I need to remove the axle from the front diff so I can get it to the press but it won't come out, is it suppose to just pull out or is their something I'm missing? I have not tried to pry cause sure feels like their is a clip holding it. HELP!
 

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So I'm doing front wheel bearings, right side went easy, left side not so much. My problem is the splines are froze in the hub, now I've tried everything including a puller and my 1/2in drive impact, I'm stopping short of getting out the inch drive cause it will just break something. I need to remove the axle from the front diff so I can get it to the press but it won't come out, is it suppose to just pull out or is their something I'm missing? I have not tried to pry cause sure feels like their is a clip holding it. HELP!
Don't pry it out you can damage the front dif very easily with a pickle fork etc. Soak it repeatedly with a good solvent , overnight if you have to and they have always popped right out for me even in this salty mud environment......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It moves a little then feels like it bottoms out on a clip, could it just be rust/crud on the end of the shaft inside the diff? I was just going to pry with a heal bar.
 

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There is a clip inside . Soak it with PB Blaster /Liquid Wrench etc.... I don't like to pry after seeing a buddy totally screw up the housing/seal........Short jabby pulls .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Chris, so do I have to remove the clip? only way I see to do that is take the other side of the diff apart, am I missing something?
 

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Thanks Chris, so do I have to remove the clip? only way I see to do that is take the other side of the diff apart, am I missing something?
You do not have to remove the spring clip, it will come out with the axle once it soaks for a while. #5

[h=2]Parts Microfiche Schematic Breakdown[/h]


[h=2]Parts List by Blowout Reference#[/h]
#Part NumberDescriptionMSRPPriceRequiredQty
Price is for one part. We sell all parts individually.
01332606
SUBSTITUTED BY 1332856
$318.99 2
12203705
CV-JOINT (00808977)
$270.99 1
22203332
KIT-BOOT,OUTER
[Wheel Side][Incl. Clamps, Grease]
$36.99 1
32203331
KIT-BOOT,INNER
[Gear Side][Incl. Clamps, Grease]
$36.99 1
42203330
KIT-JOINT,DOJ
$199.99 1
57710581
SPRING-RING
$4.30 1
62204210
CLAMP-SMALL 10076994
$8.99 1
72204209
CLAMP-LARGE 00806857
$8.99 1
82204213
CLAMP-SMALL 10077053
$6.47 1
92204212
CLAMP-LARGE 10077054
$10.99 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I broke down and bought a manual today, my guess is this clip does help hold it in since they want you to replace with new on install. I need to get the rear done before I give it a good jerk since it's sitting on jack stands on the table with one front and one back wheel off.
 

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I broke down and bought a manual today, my guess is this clip does help hold it in since they want you to replace with new on install. I need to get the rear done before I give it a good jerk since it's sitting on jack stands on the table with one front and one back wheel off.
It does hold it in and although I keep new spares just in case, I have never installed a new one on reassembly and never have had one go bad. It would be good for Polaris stock prices though, if everyone bought new ones every time................
 

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I've had the same problem myself and so have several other members. As mentioned above, soak it really good with repeated applications of penetrant (Krull, PB Blaster, etc,,,,,) and then attach a slide hammer to it. Do NOT pry against the diff' case.....they bust pretty easy.

To make things easier next time, apply a LIBERAL coating of anti-sieze to the splines before reinstalling the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well maybe I ought to try a little harder next time, was determined to get it out today, good dousing of PB, short soak and with one jerk out it came. Now on to the real problem..... put the shaft/hub in the press and 20tons didn't move it and am hesitant to go any higher, press will go to 60tons, to bad I'm out of oxy/acetylene, guess I'll have to run to my buddy's shop and use his rose bud. It is nice to finally have a service manual.
 

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Yeap, the torch should do the trick. I went several years without having to use a torch on stuck items, but have now had to use it 4 times within the last month or so. Luck of the draw I guess. Had an exhaust bolt stuck in the head of my youngest daughters dirt bike a couple weeks ago. It took a whole week of repeated applications of the torch, hammer, and penetrant.......but I finally got it. Was afraid that I was gonna have to remove and disassemble the engine over that one dang bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jerry I whish it was easy as a bolt, got a whole arsenal of tools for that this on the other hand doesn't have near as many choices. I'm a little discouraged after talking to my dealer today, said they had one could never get apart, but I do have a few more tools in the shop then he has, 40 years of wrenching on heavy equipment will do that. Anyways I sent it with my buddy who is a way better wrench then I am, told him to take apart or break apart not a lot of choices if he can save the axle the other parts are not to bad.
 

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If separating them isn't possible, it shouldn't be "too" difficult to cut the hub off of the axle shaft. Since the hub is aluminum and the axle is steel, the hub "should" break apart fairly easy after cutting it nearly in half on each side.
 
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