[pede58]

I'm going to be kind of all over with this one so bare with me;

I finally got my front axle out of the hub, little heat, a 60ton press, some luck and it came apart without breaking anything...woo-hoo! what a bitch, bearing split and half the inner race was froze to the hub had to torch it off, sometimes you get lucky and catch problems before they become devastating.
Rebuilt my clutch had a bad bearing, rollers and weights were good and while spinning the spider off lost one of the buttons, yeah I know it's got to be there somewhere, maybe with the socket I lost last year, anyways replaced the bearing, spring and buttons but now they are a little tight at the top of the tower, should I be concerned or will they seat in?

Now for electrical, going to put in 2 new batteries but will do so without an isolator, need the extra power for my sprayer, would it be better to run separate cables to the power block or can I make new cables tying both together then to the block or does it make any difference.....or sense?

 

[POS POLARIS]

Hey larry,

You are correct, replacing wheel bearings if a real peach of a job.

on the clutch, more than likely it'll be ok and the buttons will wear in some. at least its on a used clutch and not a new one. I've had some new clutches that were bound up right of of the box. a couple hundred hours of inhaling dirt through the intake sometimes made them worse for awhile before they got better.

If you got all the dirt cleaned out from behind thebuttons, I wouldn't worry unless you think it's stiff enough that it won't allow the outer sheave to slide without considerable effort.

Just curious, what kind of bearing did you go back together with? did you put in the one-way bearing? or the two way bearing? does you ranger have EBS?

As for the batteries, if it was me, I'd run a separate set of cables to the power block. this will ensure that both batteries get the same amount of charge and draw down.

if you hook one battery to the next, the closest battery to the power block will receive more of the drain, and more of the charge than the other. it's not a deal breaker, but it might make a difference in battery life. plus, I think it'd just be easier to run a pair of cables to the power block vs trying to double up cables on one battery.

 

[Jungleman]

Just curious guys, what causes an often times good, low mileage wheel bearings race to seize on the hub ? Is it possible the entire bearing is spinning inside the carrier and the heat from that makes the race seize on the hub ?

 

[pede58]

Thanks guy's!

I'm not sure if it's a 1 way or 2, does seem to have some engine braking, it was stock(oem) for this unit and had needles on one end and a bushing on the other so you tell me. I'm not to worried about the buttons just thought I'd ask and they bind at the very bottom not the top, frees up pretty quick. Were thinking the same on the cables, the problem I have is walking out with the wand and machine at idle plus doing a building lot where you never really get to open the throttle, that is the reason for going 2 batteries.

Kris, if it's truly a good(quality) bearing; I doubt it's turning in the carrier that's a press fit but it might spin on the hub, that's a slip fit. My best guess would be with the workmanship in the bearing. Another thought(mine) here is break-in, if the new bearing is a little tight and the hub a bit sloppy then it will slip till heat builds up and gualds(spelling?) to the hub, maybe some short trips till the bearing gets worn in and turns freer, just thinkin out loud.

 

[POS POLARIS]

Kris,

Never had the inner race sieze to the hub. I've had the bearing start to go bad and the race spin on the hub wearing it out. I use antisieze on the hub before I slip it into the bearing.

Just was wondering on the clutch bearing Larry, I thought I heard someone say that you can get more engine braking if you install the one way bearing even with a non ebs clutch. But not sure on that.

 

[Jungleman]

Thanks guys ! "bearing split and half the inner race was froze to the hub had to torch it off," Larry, was the hub worn , damaged etc after you torched it off ? Was the bearing making any strange noise beforehand and was the wheel sloppy beforehand? I guess what I am getting at was the bearing functioning properly even though the race was seized on the hub.........
Tia...........

 

[pede58]

Kris, I say it was functioning properly as for noise...I'm hard of hearing but wasn't squealing or anything, had some play so off it came, I do a lot of road speed and just didn't want to take a chance. If I had to take a guess, bearing was at or close to it's fail point, enough grit had gotten between the inner race and hub to make it stick not really sure how bad it was stuck it was just easier to cut since we had the touch out anyways.

 

[Jungleman]

Thanks for the info !

 

[POS POLARIS]

Whenever I have the suspension apart or the hubs off, I always take my can of PJ1 (blue can) and lubricate the bearing through the split in the inside races while slowly turning it. It would amaze you how it can take a stiff bearing and make it work like new again.

 

[pede58]

Everything is done but the batteries and just took it for a spin, run good no problems but got back and just thought I'd check codes, it throws a frickin 25, I mean WTF it's not even listed in my book, anybody know?

 

[Jungleman]

Everything is done but the batteries and just took it for a spin, run good no problems but got back and just thought I'd check codes, it throws a frickin 25, I mean WTF it's not even listed in my book, anybody know?

Larry, that is a TRANSMISSION INPUT ..INVALID GEAR code. Mine throws it on occasion and then it goes away. It could be the connection on the trans for the gear indicator , its more or less a non real code..................

 

[pede58]

Thanks Kris!

 

[commanderjjones]

Larry, that is a TRANSMISSION INPUT ..INVALID GEAR code. Mine throws it on occasion and then it goes away. It could be the connection on the trans for the gear indicator , its more or less a non real code..................

Yeap, I saw the same code on my '06 on numerous occasions, but there was no problem at all....even replaced the sensor and still saw this occasionally. It was unnerving, but I eventually learned to ignore it. Dang ghost in the machine.

 

[264killer]

Put new front wheel bearings in 09 ranger 700 . Hubs looked good one wheel had about 3/8 wiggle in it . Took my air chisel with the pointed bit & stippled the hub where the bearing runs over did it a little had to use a press to get it together . did not want to use a hammer . Took care of wobbly wheel.

 

[pede58]

Wayne so your saying the hub looked good but still had slop? Were the bearings tight in the carrier? I've used the dimple method on several things over the years, might even back that up with a little green Loctite but from what I see if it's to tight getting it apart the next time might be a bitch, no place to press or pull.

 

[264killer]

Both bearing were very tight Had to press them in.I have a cutting torch & a extra hub if it comes to it.

 

[commanderjjones]

Both bearing were very tight Had to press them in.I have a cutting torch & a extra hub if it comes to it.

Next time you install new bearings, put them in the freezer for a half hour or so. After freezing, they will practically fall in.....no press needed.

 

[Jungleman]

Next time you install new bearings, put them in the freezer for a half hour or so. After freezing, they will practically fall in.....no press needed.

Yes, it is almost freaky how easy they drop in after a good freeze................ball joints to.

 

[pede58]

It always helps to freeze but I still had to press into the carrier, didn't give much resistance though, I watched my dad ruin a $700 bearing once using a hammer.

 

[POS POLARIS]

<<<<<<<<<<<< uses a hammer and punch

A press is on my list of things I need to own.