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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've a 2006 Ranger XP 700. (Build date 12/2005 VIN digit 10 is "6" for 2006 model year.) Possible multiple problems and/or causes? More than one year ago it was scheduled for a top end rebuild with a local mechanic. On the day I was to deliver it, it suddenly wouldn't start. After extensive trouble shooting we determined the ECM (under the hood) was faulty. Module Masters confirmed it was toast, multiple problems including a cracked board and several bad connections/components, couldn't repair it, so I waited almost a year for Partzilla to deliver an OEM ECM. (Thanks to COVID, they tell me...)

Jump ahead one year...when new ECM was installed, the buggy started up perfectly...but would not accelerate. Simply touching the throttle caused the engine to die immediately. Mechanic did the top end, replaced fuel pump, drained tank and added fresh fuel, checked and/or replaced TPS, TBAP, still won't do anything but idle. If the gas pedal is touched or the throttle plate cam opened by hand just a fraction of a degree...she quits immediately.

I've personally continuity checked every wire from TPS, TBAP (TMAP?) and CPS to ECU computer under the seat...no opens. I've disconnected power for several minutes and confirmed there are no stored and no new codes at all, just a code "61." I removed the throttle body, cleaned it, set TPS according to the manual (0.528 volts with "D" screw backed out, then adjusted to 0.660 volts at idle position) Absolutely no improvement...in fact, I think I have a rather low idle rpm now, and it will stall if allowed to idle for more than 2-3 minutes. Fuel pressure is rock steady at 40, and I checked it with a real fuel pressure tester.

Local mechanics are great for general work, but nobody here can seem to do any diagnostic work. I've noted several threads with similar problems, but no one ever seems to fix the situation, or they simply never POST about their solution. Any ideas out there? Gracias in advance...
 

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Welcome Lt, there are only so many things on a 700 that will cause the problem you have and you have listed all of them as being new or checked out and approved so logic would dictate that at least one or more are not as they seem. Couple of questions .................please answer EACH ONE OF THEM CAREFULLY :

1. How long have you owned this Ranger ?
2. Hours ?
3. The new TPS, was it OEM or a EBAY/AMAZON knock off ?
4. The TBAP and TPS harness's .......have they been upgraded or are they original OEM ?
5. Have you checked the throttle body adapter for cracking where the flange bolts to the head ?

Just fyi, confirming continuity on an old Ranger harness skimpy wiring does not mean diddly . The only sure way to confirm that the wiring is not comprimised is to grab each end and pull while carefully watching for the INSULATION TO STRETCH . You can have broken wire inside the insulation that will ohm out but will not register properly with the ECU. Happens ALL the time on Polaris sensor harness's and the majority of the time it will not throw a code.

Here is a little bit of wisdom from a POLARIS SERVICE MANUAL :
Font Parallel Screenshot Number Document
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Senor Jungleman, (I'm certain you've a great back story on that name...) I do appreciate your prompt and courteous reply.

1. (How long have you owned this Ranger?) I bought this unit in Dec 2019, in El Centro CA. I am the 2nd owner. The original owner was quite careful and maintained the machine well. However, it was used extensively in the desert area around the Salton Sea, and had low compression. I think this was simply from ingesting alkali dust and grit from that area, resulting in (premature?) wear in the top end.
2. (Hours?) The hour meter shows 576. I cannot verify that is an accurate figure, however.
3. (The new TPS, was it OEM or a EBAY/AMAZON knock off?) My mistake, sir, it is still the original OEM TPS, marked with a 7821C code.
4. (The TBAP and TPS harness's .......have they been upgraded or are they original OEM ?)
They are the original harnesses.
5. (Have you checked the throttle body adapter for cracking where the flange bolts to the head ?) I have visually inspected it on the engine, and run my fingers all over inside and out looking for any cracks, and it looks fine. Is it worth breaking the seal and removing it for a more thorough inspection?


That note re: "80% of all EFI problems" doesn't make the Polaris engineering department look very good to me...

Again, many thanks. I'll get on to the wiring harnesses ASAP. Is there any particular area to start with? Perhaps all wires on TPS, then TMAP, then CPS?

Mike
 

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Lt, if your TBAP sensor harness is truly the original one , it is shot. I can see it from here.. Here is a lifetime HD replacement. No, you cannot make repairs ... T-BAP Wiring Repair Harness

Here is a new aftermarket TPS that has been tested by a number of PRC forum members and for knock off of OEM , it works flawlessly . It will save you $200.00 so you can purchase the new TBAP harness from OTB and a new TBAP.

New TBAP sensor . Same as the one POCO sells for waaaaay less : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJLH02U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would start with this stuff. The TPS harness could possibly be compromised on the other side of the harness that goes to the ECM but I doubt it. If it is, you will need this . Polaris Single Mount Throttle Position Sensor Repair Harness

The CPS harness likes to rub thru on the engine and then fry up the connection. Less often than the TBAP and TPS harness's

I would guess there was a strong possibility that the motor was dusted by a bad THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER on the first go round. Also check the AIR BOX boot for a tear right around the TBAP sensor. The rubber degrades in time and start to rip and crack and sucking in dust. Usually good for about five or six years here in the tropics. Hit those two things with ether or carb cleaner, with the engine running obviously, to see if there is any change in the idle RPM. TB adapters are cheap on EBAY...Air box boot$ are a bit Spendy ..

Hopefully you know the compression is now good...fuel is good.....fuel pressure is still good etc etc.. Let us know ..Don't be cheap...
 

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PS

"That note re: "80% of all EFI problems" doesn't make the Polaris engineering department look very good to me..."

Yes, we know......all to well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lt, if your TBAP sensor harness is truly the original one , it is shot. I can see it from here.. Here is a lifetime HD replacement. No, you cannot make repairs ... T-BAP Wiring Repair Harness

Here is a new aftermarket TPS that has been tested by a number of PRC forum members and for knock off of OEM , it works flawlessly . It will save you $200.00 so you can purchase the new TBAP harness from OTB and a new TBAP.
[/URL]

New TBAP sensor . Same as the one POCO sells for waaaaay less : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJLH02U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would start with this stuff. The TPS harness could possibly be compromised on the other side of the harness that goes to the ECM but I doubt it. If it is, you will need this . Polaris Single Mount Throttle Position Sensor Repair Harness

The CPS harness likes to rub thru on the engine and then fry up the connection. Less often than the TBAP and TPS harness's

I would guess there was a strong possibility that the motor was dusted by a bad THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER on the first go round. Also check the AIR BOX boot for a tear right around the TBAP sensor. The rubber degrades in time and start to rip and crack and sucking in dust. Usually good for about five or six years here in the tropics. Hit those two things with ether or carb cleaner, with the engine running obviously, to see if there is any change in the idle RPM. TB adapters are cheap on EBAY...Air box boot$ are a bit Spendy ..

Hopefully you know the compression is now good...fuel is good.....fuel pressure is still good etc etc.. Let us know ..Don't be cheap...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
J:

Many thanks for the info.

1) I've ordered the lifetime TBAP (OTB Powersports), and the TPS (Amazon.)
2) I have a new, genuine Bosch TBAP sensor that I'll swap in AFTER installing new harness, if the new harness doesn't improve things.
3) The boot containing the TBAP sensor and throttle body to engine connection piece are good, no cracks, leaks, etc. I think the boot between TB and air cleaner is not the original.

I thought that while I'm waiting a few weeks for parts I'd closely inspect every wiring harness and connector. (Thank you for the "80% of problems are a result of poor engineering in that department" note...) Guess what I found...?

Wire number 70Y from the stator was rubbed clean through the insulation! And the corresponding pin #H on the SSCB #2 side shows a bit of heat damage!

I'll pull the stator cover for a quick check inside, and if it's all good, install some shrink wrap over that exposed bit of wire. For the 14 pin connector, I've read your post regarding Mouser. Would you recommend replacing the connector, swapping over the good pins and wires and simply replacing the pin on the 70Y wire? All the other pins/wires appear normal. Does this Delphi/Aptiv type connector require a special pin release tool?
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Many thanks,

Mike
 

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To save the expense of special tools I would recommend that you take a hard look at OTB's replacement of the 14 pin connector. It will save you a lot of time as well. You don't want that connection arcing to the point it melts down.





Instead of pulling the stator cover I would instead run the stator diagnostic checks that are in the $10..00 pdf service manual . If the numbers check out, you should be good to go . 2006 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 XP Service Manual PDF Download

Keep in mind that half the time when a PDM frys up it is because the stator is bad and most of the time I have noticed that a battery in very poor condition was the cause of the stator problems. The voltage regulator is built into that PDM POS and they don't like to be overworked. In your case, I don't think that it is the case but I would sure check the stator output numbers. I would get those damaged stator wires bandaged real well so they cannot rub through .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To save the expense of special tools I would recommend that you take a hard look at OTB's replacement of the 14 pin connector. It will save you a lot of time as well. You don't want that connection arcing to the point it melts down.





Instead of pulling the stator cover I would instead run the stator diagnostic checks that are in the $10..00 pdf service manual . If the numbers check out, you should be good to go . 2006 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 XP Service Manual PDF Download

Keep in mind that half the time when a PDM frys up it is because the stator is bad and most of the time I have noticed that a battery in very poor condition was the cause of the stator problems. The voltage regulator is built into that PDM POS and they don't like to be overworked. In your case, I don't think that it is the case but I would sure check the stator output numbers. I would get those damaged stator wires bandaged real well so they cannot rub through .
J: Roger, understood, will do. I'm getting some kind of education through this process...
 

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"I'm getting some kind of education through this process..."

Only on PRC...........;)
 

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I have the old fashioned paperback service manual...is there anything new in the pdf version?
Nothing new in the pdf. You should have 2-3 methods of checking the stator output in the OEM POLARIS paper back service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Senor Jungleman:

I'd like to re-visit the TPS adjustment procedure, if I may. I've not yet received the recommended Amazon TPS, but am still using the factory OEM part.

I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner, and checked the throttle body adapter and the boot between air cleaner and throttle body. When I calibrated it, I kept the TPS plugged into the harness and backprobed the yellow signal wire. I'm not using any steady 5 volt external source or external tester, but the actual power supplied by the Ranger. With the idle adjust D screw backed out, with no contact to the throttle cam, and the throttle plate completely sealing the throttle body bore, I adjusted the TPS to show 0.527-0.529 volts. (I just couldn't nail down 0.528) After securing the TPS, I adjusted to idle D screw to give me 0.660 (again, plus of minus about 0.001 volts.)

However, I am curious...what voltage should I see at WOT? How about approximately 1/2 throttle? I can't find any info re: these numbers. When I probe across the yellow and black wires, I see 650 ohms at idle and about 4,200 ohms at WOT. Conversely, between the yellow and blue wires I see about 5,300 ohms at idle, and 1,900 ohms at WOT.

Is there any hint here about a TPS problem?

Gracias,

Mike
 

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Mike, POCO says to remove the throttle cable from the linkage prior to setting the VDC . Put a rag under the throttle linkage so you dont risk losing the little brass barrel that retains the cable .......... If you lose it, you are screwed,,, You need to be able to turn the throttle linkage (slowly) to wide open to check that the VDC reading is smooth with no jumps back or forward as you hit WOT which should read 3.6ish + VDC. I have no idea what the resistance readings are at different throttle angles.

I have never seen a 700 that was 10 years or older that had a good accurate operating TPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
J:
Well, here's an update, but it's not really progress.

I received the beautiful OTB TBAP harness and installed it Thursday. No change at all. Yesterday I finally received the new TPS (the one you specified in the Amazon store.) I installed it exactly as we discussed, confirmed approximately 0.528 (plus or minus 0.002 volts) with the "D" screw backed all the way out and throttle cable disconnected. WOT yields about 3.55-3.62 volts (perhaps I'm not fully opening the throttle, or it has a little bit of mechanical play in the apparatus?) The boot between air cleaner and throttle body is in good condition and securely fastened, and the adapter between the throttle body and intake manifold appears solid (no cracks, gouges, faults) and well sealed, too.

Now it starts and idles, but I still cannot get her to accelerate at all. The instant I touch the throttle cam to open the throttle she dies. Also, the idle now seems terribly slow (I have no tach, but it's SLOW) and with a very rich mixture. Might I try a different baseline voltage than 0.528? Any idea what else might be at hand?

I do appreciate your time and efforts in this most frustrating situation.

Mike
 

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Mike, before I forget again, what was the result of the stator per the service manual checks ? If you have no codes and the fuel is good ( we are sure it is ?) and the fuel pressure has been verified with a REAL fuel pressure gauge and not a tire checker, then it is time for a compression check or a leak down test . If that checks out then I would be closely testing the wires in the TPS harness on the other side going to the splice with the TBAP . Not with a meter but singling out the wire and pulling on both ends watching for the insulation to stretch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
J:

Stator results (as per page 10.12 in the old fashioned paper service manual):

Test 1: All three coils ohmed out well within spec, 0.19 ohm (plus or minus 0.01).
Test 2: All three coils to ground...open, no connection at all, as they should.
I couldn't perform test #3 because I can't get the engine above idle speed. But the battery is receiving about 14.2 volts at the slow idle speed.

I tested the fuel pressure with the meter you recommended in a previous post, the one from Amazon. It's a real fuel pressure tester, not a cheap knock off or tire pressure tester. 40psi, rock steady. The engine was just "topped," with new cylinders and pistons/rings/pins, new exhaust valves, (re-used original intake valves), new plugs, plug wires, fuel pump.

Could the mechanic have misaligned some component during reassembly, giving us a timing problem? I don't know if the camshaft was removed during the top end overhaul.

The idle speed seems very slow with the 0.660 volt setting for idle. Is it possible to try a different setting to increase idle rpm?

I'll very closely inspect every inch of the TPS wiring as you recommend.

Thank you,

Mike
 

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Mike, I sure would like to know what the compression test says. That is strange if the TPS is set and it is not iding 900-1150 RPM . Here is a link to a recent TPS harness snafu. The OP finally carefully went thru the harness going back toward the ECU and found that the splice with the T BAP sensor was bad. 2009 700XP surging in any

These wire harness's are unforgiving and you usually "cannot see anything wrong with one" you have to take them a part and tug on the wires and watch for the insulation to stretch because the wires come a part INSIDE the insulation . I would sure like to know what kind of compression you have...

Check the CRANK POSITION SENSOR wiring harness as well. They will rub through on the motor or fry up the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mike, I sure would like to know what the compression test says. That is strange if the TPS is set and it is not iding 900-1150 RPM . Here is a link to a recent TPS harness snafu. The OP finally carefully went thru the harness going back toward the ECU and found that the splice with the T BAP sensor was bad. 2009 700XP surging in any

These wire harness's are unforgiving and you usually "cannot see anything wrong with one" you have to take them a part and tug on the wires and watch for the insulation to stretch because the wires come a part INSIDE the insulation . I would sure like to know what kind of compression you have...

Check the CRANK POSITION SENSOR wiring harness as well. They will rub through on the motor or fry up the connector.
Jungleman, I'm still here and still working with this Ranger. I had a little medical problem with the family, but I'm now able to devote some time to fixing this little [email protected]

I've just picked up a compression tester, so I'll get on compression/leakdown tests ASAP. In the meantime...in case the ECU is the culprit, what other models of Polaris products used a similar or compatible ECU? I was hoping to simply swap ECUs with another 2006 Ranger, but alas, they are no other Rangers of that year in my area. I think simply swapping in a known good ECU would solve a lot of trouble shooting, wouldn't it?

Gracias,
MQ
 

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Lt, ECU under the drivers seat OR........................................ECM aka power module under the hood ?
 
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