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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The ranger started sputtering when given gas at speed and progressively got worse. Another odd thing it was doing was that the fuel gage would dim and brighten up constantly. Tested the pressure and was running low 20's, I replaced the fuel pump with the Bosch pump from the parts sticky. After replacement pressure was 39 at start up and while running, idling, and accelerating. The pressure would drop down into the mid 20's after it was turned off but I assume that is the norm. The ranger runs better than it has in a long time, I can spin the tires on dirt again - LOL.

I had a mild starting issue before replacing the pump, but immediately after I replaced the pump I now have starting issue that is becoming more frequent. The starter spins but it doesn't want to crank. It usually starts up relativity quickly the first time, but can act up then. More commonly it doesn't want to crank throughout the day even after sitting for 6 hours. If I give it gas while trying to crank it the motor fires right up, without giving it gas it takes a little while with the starter spinning to get it to start. After starting the idle is very low
(600-800), but after it warms up the idle comes up and it runs fine. The voltage at the fuel pump harness plug (unplugged from the tank) is 12 volts for a second or two and then drops down between 4-5 volts. I assume the 12 volts is to get the fuel pump primed, and that the voltage drop was because after the pump was primed the ECM would adjust the voltage to control the fuel as needed - is this correct or should it always be at 12 volts?

I have an idle issue as well. Low idle at start up, if I hit the accelerator a few times it raises up to 1000. After running it the idle is erratic sometimes high 2000-3000 and sometimes 2000-1500 and slowly drops to 1250, and then other times it will stay where I set it with the throttle cable adjustment at 1100. When it is idling high sometimes if I flip the accelerator it will slowly creep down low enough to be able to shift gears. I have a new throttle cable but haven't had a chance to install it. I didn't think this would affect cranking but didn't want to leave out any symptoms I was having just in case they were related.

I cleaned the TBAP with carb cleaner. It looked clean when I took it out, but since it was out I shot it with carb cleaner anyway. I do get a faint gas smell after starting it. I haven't changed or checked the TPS or idle screw. I haven't removed the rubber hose that connects the air breather to the throttle body but don't feel any breaks or air sucking. I haven't seen any loose or bare wires, but plan to really look carefully when I drop the skid plate to install the new throttle cable. The battery is a 925 Odyssey, although not new it stays on a battery tender and is charged. The only code I get is the transmission position senor (after the dealer installed the white (I think, its been a while) spring it has trouble going into while running and showing neutral on the speedo) the speedo sometimes wont show that it is in neutral.

Any ideas on where to focus my attention to get this starting problem corrected?

I wanted to say thank you to all that have posted to the sticky's and answered questions this site is a wealth of knowledge. Also wanted to thank those that have posted pictures and ideas for add on's, after owning the ranger since new in 2007 I have finally started making things I have wanted to make and put on it for years. So far I have built - roof, lights, floor boards, winch, rear wheel mud guards, under bed mud guard, bed rails, mud flaps, lock and ride plugs, storage box and have much more to build. I will get some pictures up after I get the mechanical issues corrected.
 

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Heath................."is this correct or should it always be at 12 volts?".................It is correct.
" where I set it with the throttle cable adjustment"................The adjuster is for setting the proper slack in the cable(1/16") not a specific idle RPM. Without that slack your idle will be all over the place.The TPS is the main component for controlling the idle. base setting .528 and D screw air setting .710.
If the TBAP connector/harness is the original I'd say you probably have a wire break at the underside at or very near the connection .. www.otbpowersports.com

I would check the throttle body adapter for cracking at the flange where it bolts to the head if you have never replaced it since it was new it is almost certain that it is bad.

That should get you going in the right direction.
 

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Since you have replaced the fuel pump the next place I would look would be the Tbap harness for broken wires where the harness connects to the Tbap. Very common failure for the year model and later year models too. Check the tube from the throttle body to the head for cracking under the bottom side. While running spray some carb cleaner in the area and if you notice an increase in engine speed you a cracked tube.
 

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Heath, Please keep us posted on what you find out as I having a few issues with my 2007 XP that I have posted on another thread and would like to know how yours are resolved.

Thanks!

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies!

A correction to my earlier post - I cleaned the TMAP sensor with carb cleaner, NOT the TBAP sensor.

I have a new TBAP harness on its way and will install it the new throttle cable along with new spark plugs hopefully this weekend. I will also take a look at all the wiring and intake boots while I am at it and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update - Still having starting issues. It turns over fine, just doesn't want to fire up and when it does the idle is very low until I hit the gas and then jumps up to 1050 rpm's. I also think that the engine takes longer than it used to do to drop down its RPM's after the gas pedal is released.

I replaced:
Both Spark Plugs gapped at .035
The plug at the TBAP
Throttle Cable
Cleaned throttle body and inspected both boots
Fuel pump was replaced before the original thread and is holding at 39 PSI

I didn't see any bare or exposed wires. I haven't tested the voltage at the TBAP or TPS yet. And the Any more suggestions on where to look to fix the slow start?
 

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Update - Still having starting issues. It turns over fine, just doesn't want to fire up and when it does the idle is very low until I hit the gas and then jumps up to 1050 rpm's. I also think that the engine takes longer than it used to do to drop down its RPM's after the gas pedal is released.

I replaced:
Both Spark Plugs gapped at .035
The plug at the TBAP
Throttle Cable
Cleaned throttle body and inspected both boots
Fuel pump was replaced before the original thread and is holding at 39 PSI

I didn't see any bare or exposed wires. I haven't tested the voltage at the TBAP or TPS yet. And the Any more suggestions on where to look to fix the slow start?
Heath, I would check the TPS numbers , both base and flow.. Jerry has a great write up on TPS adjustment in the sticky department. It sounds like the TPS is out of synch with the computer.I would check it for the Polaris spec settings first .528 base and .710 flow and if you still have low idle/slow start etc . dial it up to .560 on the base and down to .660-.670 on the flow D screw.You can use needle nose on the D screw but you have to be careful not to round it off. KMS sells a tool to adjust it with. KMS POLARIS RZR IDLE SPEED TOOL
 
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That would be the next place I would go as well.

If you adjust it, and aren't able to get a satisfactory idle at .710, you wouldn't be the first one that's had to set the idle speed somewhere between .660 and .680
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Using the "short version" probe in yellow wire and ground on motor I got a .663 reading.

I have owned it since brand new and to my knowledge the voltage has never been adjusted, still has the factory white paint on the d screw. The sticky says an 07 should be at .710. Couldn't get the needle nose to grip tight enough and turn the screw without worry of stripping it so Ill order a adjustment tool. Should I try .680 or .710 first?
 

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Using the "short version" probe in yellow wire and ground on motor I got a .663 reading.

I have owned it since brand new and to my knowledge the voltage has never been adjusted, still has the factory white paint on the d screw. The sticky says an 07 should be at .710. Couldn't get the needle nose to grip tight enough and turn the screw without worry of stripping it so Ill order a adjustment tool. Should I try .680 or .710 first?
Heath, I would try to go with the spec .710 first. If it is still problematic you will need to check the base number and go from there.
 
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