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Hello, I was recently given a 700xp from my father in law. I believe it is an 08’ but not positive. I have codes 45, and 51 come up. It starts and runs. But will suddenly die with no warning and will always start back up. Does anyone have any solutions? Or know where I can buy the parts online to fix this issue? Thank you
 

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I also have a small crack on in this tube with the Hose clamp, where my finger is if anyone knows what it’s called or where I can find another one. Thank you so much for any help.
130883
 

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2005 Ranger XP 800
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The dying could be a wire harness going bad, you happen to hit a bump just right, it disconnects just long enough to shut down. The TBAP and TPS connectors are the worst culprits of this, polaris made the harness nice and stiff, then the engine vibrates and the wires get stressed right at the connectors and break inside the insulation.

You'll be able to tell if it is a 2008 because it will have a hand brake lever to the right of the steering wheel. Left of the wheel it is 09+, foot e-brake it is 07 or older. Speedometer was added in 07, so if you have one of those it's 07 or newer.
It will also have the manufacture date and VIN number on a sticker under the hood, 10th digit is the year.

The intake adapter with the crack is #7 here: Polaris RANGER OEM Service & Replacement Parts | Official Store
part number 1253527, and it did not change from 2005 through 2009.

It looks like all your wires are hanging out of the loom... did you pull them out? If not, get some split wire loom to protect them, or you'll be looking at a lot of electrical gremlins down the road.

What is going on with the PCV valve connection? (3 inches to the right of where you are pointing in the picture) I see one bolt lying on the engine case, the other seems to have a nut and a stack of washers on it... wrong length bolts? If that was your father in law's doing, I'd pull that and make sure the reed valve is in there, doesn't look damaged, and is sealed.
 

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The dying could also just be that too much air is getting in because of that cracked intake adapter. The TBAP sensor is before that, the computer uses the airflow past the TBAP to know how much fuel to put in, so if the air is getting in somewhere else, it wouldn't give enough fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes
The dying could be a wire harness going bad, you happen to hit a bump just right, it disconnects just long enough to shut down. The TBAP and TPS connectors are the worst culprits of this, polaris made the harness nice and stiff, then the engine vibrates and the wires get stressed right at the connectors and break inside the insulation.

You'll be able to tell if it is a 2008 because it will have a hand brake lever to the right of the steering wheel. Left of the wheel it is 09+, foot e-brake it is 07 or older. Speedometer was added in 07, so if you have one of those it's 07 or newer.
It will also have the manufacture date and VIN number on a sticker under the hood, 10th digit is the year.

The intake adapter with the crack is #7 here: Polaris RANGER OEM Service & Replacement Parts | Official Store
part number 1253527, and it did not change from 2005 through 2009.

It looks like all your wires are hanging out of the loom... did you pull them out? If not, get some split wire loom to protect them, or you'll be looking at a lot of electrical gremlins down the road.

What is going on with the PCV valve connection? (3 inches to the right of where you are pointing in the picture) I see one bolt lying on the engine case, the other seems to have a nut and a stack of washers on it... wrong length bolts? If that was your father in law's doing, I'd pull that and make sure the reed valve is in there, doesn't look damaged, and is sealed.
[/QUOT
The dying could be a wire harness going bad, you happen to hit a bump just right, it disconnects just long enough to shut down. The TBAP and TPS connectors are the worst culprits of this, polaris made the harness nice and stiff, then the engine vibrates and the wires get stressed right at the connectors and break inside the insulation.

You'll be able to tell if it is a 2008 because it will have a hand brake lever to the right of the steering wheel. Left of the wheel it is 09+, foot e-brake it is 07 or older. Speedometer was added in 07, so if you have one of those it's 07 or newer.
It will also have the manufacture date and VIN number on a sticker under the hood, 10th digit is the year.

The intake adapter with the crack is #7 here: Polaris RANGER OEM Service & Replacement Parts | Official Store
part number 1253527, and it did not change from 2005 through 2009.

It looks like all your wires are hanging out of the loom... did you pull them out? If not, get some split wire loom to protect them, or you'll be looking at a lot of electrical gremlins down the road.

What is going on with the PCV valve connection? (3 inches to the right of where you are pointing in the picture) I see one bolt lying on the engine case, the other seems to have a nut and a stack of washers on it... wrong length bolts? If that was your father in law's doing, I'd pull that and make sure the reed valve is in there, doesn't look damaged, and is sealed.
Thank you so much for the information! Yes I pulled wires out carefully to check for any breaks since I have code #51 showing. Yes he had no bolt in there and I didn’t have the right size and put it in there before I cranked it up to put on trailer and take to my house. I’ll have to check the inside of that.
 

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Ah right the codes. 45 and 51 are the TBAP and TPS generally... they have a shared wire.
@jungleman has recommended holding the connectors on those two and giving the wires a slight tug. if the insulation stretches, then that wire's the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The dying could also just be that too much air is getting in because of that cracked intake adapter. The TBAP sensor is before that, the computer uses the airflow past the TBAP to know how much fuel to put in, so if the air is getting in somewhere else, it wouldn't give enough fuel.
Okay I replaced the adapter and still having same issue. Is replacing the tbap and the tps? A good start? If so does anyone have any part number for that? Also what is that part called with all the extra washers on one side?
 

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I seem to remember from my dads 700 there is another piece there missing. It has the reed valve in it. It is rubber. It’s not there. I could be wrong but I don’t think so.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I I pulled on it at the connector the connects the tbap sensor to the wiring harness and nothing moved. Not sure where tps sensor is really.
 

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tps is throttle position sensor, it has a triangular plug, connects to the passenger side of the throttle body. Throttle body is the metal piece that the 'adapter' rubber piece connects to the engine's intake. If you look at the top of the engine from the front of the machine to the back, it would be intake, rubber adapter that had the crack, throttle body, intake duct with TBAP, airbox.

By the way, in #8 above you took a photo of an ECM under the hood. The only years that have an ECM are 2005 and 2006, so yours is one of those.
 

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99% of the time the TPS and the TBAP sensors are fine, and the harnesses are broken
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thank you so much so you think buying a new wire harness is my best bet? I really appreciate all the help.
 

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well... it is hard to know for sure. you say it runs for a while and then shuts down and you get that error code.

i'm not a fan of swapping parts just in case.

maybe try starting it up and wiggling those two harnesses by hand while you're parked. you should hopefully get some indication from that...

i would say go ahead and replace the harnesses, but what if you do that, spend a few hours hooking up new harnesses, and it turns out the harnesses are fine, and the problem is a dead ECM?

On my rig, it would shut down and barely be able to be restarted after driving for 5-10 minutes, and the problem was the ECM was dying, and as it got hot it wouldn't put out enough power to run the fuel pump/injectors. But yours might not be that at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes after it dYes sometimes it just Keeps turning over but won’t start. It sounds like it wants to but won’t quite start a
 
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