PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

1 - 20 of 79 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My son and I picked up a refurb project, 2008 Ranger Crew 700efi. We get a code 22 and I’ve read most of the strategies here. Mine seems a little different, as it won’t start unless I play with the throttle when cranking. Does this sound like a TPS issue? I Hooked the multimeter up to the yellow wire and it was reading .830. Got it down to .650, and still wouldn’t start. I haven’t done the “reset” To the .528 yet, but that’s next on my list. Now that we have the voltage set “correct” (we ended up screwing the D adjustment almost all the way out to get it low enough), the code 22 has gone away, but still not getting a start, it just cranks unless I hit the throttle. When it does run, lots of backfires so it seems really rich. I pulled the intake tube off and felt in for the butterfly valve, lots of soot in there. Did a paper towel wipe but I’ll probably get some carb cleaner for this too. Am I off base, does this make any sense for a TPI sensor? I’ve seen lots of “runs funny” in my searches, but nobody else is struggling with the start from what I can find. Have not done spark plugs yet, any merit here? Looking for a couple of things to try, thanks for any thoughts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Welcome Zim. With any Polaris "refurb project" you will need to go through everything . This has me a bit concerned

"Now that we have the voltage set “correct” (we ended up screwing the D adjustment almost all the way out to get it low enough) "

&

I pulled the intake tube off and felt in for the butterfly valve, lots of soot in there

You need to check the throttle body adapter for cracks where it bolts to the head and remove the throttle body and clean all that soot out to make sure it is not obstructing the throttle plate AND THEN set up the TPS base setting AND THEN adjust the FLOW with the screw on the TB. The (flow) screw on the throttle body is not an idle adjustment screw. It makes the final adjustment on the TPS with the throttle plate which then relays that information using DC voltage to the ECU which has a pre programmed map that it follows for spark and fuel duration/timing.

I would start out on a 'new to me' Ranger by checking the fuel pressure to make sure I had 39 psi +/-3 psi as low fuel pressure will mimic several other things that may be not up to par including a bad TPS .

Check the fuel pressure
Check the throttle body adapter & air box boot for rips especially around the TBAP sensor
Check the air filter
Clean the TBAP sensor that is in the air box boot with MAP or electronics cleaner
Check the wire harness to the TBAP sensor for chaffing and breaks in the wire entering the connection. A bad TBAP harness will throw the engine into a full blown RICH condition. 90% of the 700's will initially have a bad TBAP harness when I get them in here. The factory TBAP harnesses were KRAP and the OEM replacement harnesses are the same KRAP that came on the machine from the factory. I would just replace it with a HD harness from OTB Powersports right now and be done with it. The TBAP harness can be bad and never throw a code. T-BAP Wiring Repair Harness

That should keep you busy for a while. You need to use 'the process of elimination' in the right order and go threw this stuff carefully or you will be chasing your tail and never get where you want to go..

Once you get done with these five things you will be able to make a proper determination if the TPS and/or the TPS harness needs to be replaced.

I am not bullschitting you and I have been through this mega times with 700's and it is the only way to GET THEM RIGHT and they are ALWAYS RIGHT when I am done with them..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
And it just occurred to me , what are you using to "adjust" the Flow screw on the throttle body ? I know you are not using a pair of needle nose pliers because if you round off that 'D' screw, you may need to buy a new throttle body. :unsure: .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Busted. Yes, needle nose pliers. I still have an edge to turn, but sounds like the “d” tool is worth the investment. Sounds like I should buy this before doing the reset?

Thanks for the list here, going to get going on it this week / weekend and order the tbap tonight, hopefully we have a running Ranger to report on our next post!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
A few updates, followed a questions - due to me being cheap and going with the $24 versus $44 fuel pump pressure Checker from autozone, my evening started with realizing the one I bought only checks to 10psi. Though about disassembling my bike pump quick, but figure I’d check some other things before I did that, still may do that tonight or back to autozone tomorrow.

I’ll post a couple of pictures if needed, but a couple of things are standing out to me that may mean something:

1) cleaned the throttle body (it’s beautiful), no cracks or in the tubing, so I think I’m good there

2) reset base alignment to .528, ramped up to .660 w the d screw, cranked it (crosses my fingers) and it didn’t turn over. Took another reading after trying to crank it and I jumped to .700 - is that expected without the Loctite? Seemed like a lot of movement in voltage to me.
3) noticed my fuel light is blinking, but I have a full tank of gas. It’s leading me to believe this is fuel pump related, but that’s just my logic taking over - fuel pump pressure reading coming tomorrow (dangit, self), stay tuned, any forecasts for impatient me?
4)Tbap sensor is due in my mailbox tomorrow, I’ve read on this and don’t totally understand what this is doing, I’ll do a bit more digging. I’m optimistic here too, because another item I hadn’t mentioned, maybe you have a good reason for it, but about 2 weeks after I bought it I put a new air filter on, and whammo, the Ranger started right up. I drove it around and it ran smoother than usual, but when I went down a steep hill, it stalled out and has been back to hard to start ever since - does this mean anything? Barometric pressure related and I got lucky one day? Ha.

thanks much for your thoughts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
One more thing; on the top of the fuel take, I have the fuel line, and the electronics, but what looks like a breather tube does not exist - it still comes out but there is no rubber tubing on this - I can replace it but what should this attach to, if anything?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Zim, sounds like you have been busy..... On the TPS adjustment, did you unhook the throttle linkage before setting the base and flow ? That needs to be free . Put some rags under the throttle body to catch any screws and especially the brass barrel retainer that holds the throttle cable in place. Unscrew the black cover on the throttle body and with the throttle open a ways, remove the cable from the linkage. BE CARE FUL to not drop the brass ferule . Then set up base and flow before hooking the cable back up. If you DID all that already and your TPS reading is all over the place. then you need to carefully check the TPS harness and then replace the TPS itself. DONOT let that cheap schit creep in again and buy a Knock Off TPS off of EBAY or AMAZON. They are no good ......at all..

The 'empty' lights flashing on the needle when it is actually full are from your fuel assembly and could be anything from the wiring on the assembly to a bad float. This is........normal... You can spend a couple hun replacing the fuel assembly , which you may need a new pump and regulator anyway OR use a stick to check the fuel level. ALL BALLS I believe makes a replacement fuel assembly which makes it $uper easy to have a whole new deal with a working fuel gauge.

Your random 'start up running Gooood' was either a fluke or you may have rubbed the TBAP wires the right way for a second when you were replacing the filter :)

That tube out of the top of the fuel tank is the vent and it should have a short piece of hose on it to which I always install a little inline fuel filter which keeps water, mud and dust out of the fuel tank.

Need to check the fuel pressure....
"cranked it (crosses my fingers) and it didn’t turn over. "

A limp battery Zim will really screw with a EFI ......
Have the battery load tested for free at AUTOZONE or OREILEYS etc.. Do it now....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Zim, make sure when you hook the throttle cable back up that you leave 1/16-1/8" of gap from the linkage stop in the throttle body otherwise you will get erratic idle RPM. The adjuster is on the throttle cable about half down on the drivers side. This is NOT idle adjustment JUST cable adjustment..

IOW's If the throttle cable is adjusted to tight you will get eratic TPS voltage which will result in erratic idle RPM............specially when the engine gets warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
When I did the TPS last night I fully loosened the likage, but didn’t unhook it. I’ll unhook and see what I get. Fuel pressure looks good, when I turn the key it jumps to 39, then drops down. I assume that’s what it’s supposed to do, but mentioning just in case? Got my TBAP in the mail today, going to put it on as soon as the wife lets me, so probably tonight or tomorrow afternoon! Do you usually pull the frame when you replace the TBAP? Seems like a real jack wagon designed where that thing plugs in!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Also, do I pull the throttle cable off of the linkage, or does it come off at the throttle body? Your guidance is awesome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
When I did the TPS last night I fully loosened the likage, but didn’t unhook it. I’ll unhook and see what I get. Fuel pressure looks good, when I turn the key it jumps to 39, then drops down. I assume that’s what it’s supposed to do, but mentioning just in case? Got my TBAP in the mail today, going to put it on as soon as the wife lets me, so probably tonight or tomorrow afternoon! Do you usually pull the frame when you replace the TBAP? Seems like a real jack wagon designed where that thing plugs in!
No on removing anything except it helps to remove the throttle body to give you access to the air box boot to remove the TBAP sensor and then if I remember correctly, it is easier then to cut and add the new harness from the rear . Take your time .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Also, do I pull the throttle cable off of the linkage, or does it come off at the throttle body? Your guidance is awesome.
Slide the brass ferrule that retains the cable carefully out of the slot in the linkage . Make sure you have a BIG rag underneath the throttle body to catch the ferrule if it gets slippery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Got the tbap on, starts right up! Couldn’t help myself but to try it before I adjusted the tps (again). The TPS (have not disassembled throttle yet) had a reading at 300, and while I idled “okay” it did not like it when I gave it a little gas. I’m guessing my mixture is just smoked. I tried to get an adjustment just on the tps screw adjustment(not the d screw) and I couldn’t get above 300. I’ll start from scratch here shortly, hopefully I can get the screw to 528 so I don’t have as far to go on the D screw. Hoping to have her purring like a kitten tonight, let me know if I’m about to cause more harm than good!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Good job Zim ! Just fyi .......that .528 vdc on the base is critical. .527 or .529 is all you should accept before going to the flow screw for the rest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,638 Posts
Yeap....... put a rag under the throttle body before removing the brass ferrule with the cable in it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
As a general rule, when I pull and something doesn’t come, I try not to just muscle through it. I’m struggling to see how this works and the hook doesn’t want to come off. I have the needle nose out and am ready to put some muscle on it, just trying to triple check (sorry). Pull the hook up and over?
Rags are all in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
am I taking this whole housing off? Again, sorry for my ignorance here!!
 
1 - 20 of 79 Posts
Top