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Discussion Starter #61
Ahh, don’t scare me like that with getting busy! I ask a lot of questions, but I’ll follow your instructions into a burning pond at this point! Ha. Hammering through my honeydo list and yard work today, hoping to have special setting results tonight. No signs of fray on the CPS, that was a quick on the way to the car to run errands check! Will update soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Special TPS settings changed this; I crank and it turns over every time still; special settings hit 1050rpm idle for a second or two, then start to drop. RPMs sound like they’re fighting (clean run, not backfire or knocking like before) and then they drop to about 800rpm... and then it stalls. It seems to hold a start longer after I cranked and started it 5 or 6 times. I didn’t drive it, but my gut feel is that if I did take it out and warm it up, it would start back up. I can do that, but wanted to report back before I broke something in haste, or went on a rogue trial. Checked the TPS voltage after the cranks and it was still at .650. It sounds good when it turns over, just doesn’t want to stay running without throttling. It’s as close to sounding right as it has been, what would make it not hold the idle?
 

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Zim, a problem with the CPS/harness is ONE of the things that will keep it from running consistently. Have you cleared and rechecked the Code 21 ? 21 IS a CPS code. Unplug the CPS and with your multi meter on OHMS setting, You should have 560 +/- 10% between the pins on the connector to the sensor . What have you got ? pull the sensor out and observe the tip .. dirty ?

If you REV IT UP...will it stay running ? Won't hurt to drive it .Stay close by ...
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Took the reading twice, Measured 567 and 563. It has some oil and then a little metallic on it, not overly dirty though.

I have not cleared the code yet, but will tonight and will see if it comes back. If I just hold throttle it won’t do it / it stalls, but if I feather the pedal, it will stay running.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Pulled the ground for a minute to reset codes, hooked back up and ran the error codes, still Code 21 and that’s the only one.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Just checked the error codes again and they’re all clear now. Also, got a wild hair and tried stuck a plastic wire down the vent valve on the gas tank, tried cranking and it turned and held. Tried again and nothing. Not sure if this is dumb luck or means something. It won’t hold idle, but it was definitely the longest and cleanest idle I’ve had, about 10 seconds.

wanted to correct from earlier too, I can hold the throttle down and keep it running, not sure if I remembered wrong or if it’s now the case, but I just did it and it backfires a bit but it will hold on if I rev it.
 

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Zim, so you have replaced the TBAP harness and cleaned the sensor correct ? Checked the TPS harness for rubbing and breaks correct? Checked the CPS harness for rubbing very carefully correct ? Removed the ECU connection and inspected correct ? COMPLETELY EMPTIED THE FUEL AND REFILLED ..correct ?

Now Zim you are going to have to carefully check all the wires for rubbing.very carefully .very carefully. When is the new TPS due ?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
first things first, thanks again for sticking with me!! We haven’t talked ECU yet, I did a quick search and gave it a look, appeared okay. CPS looks solid from the outside, should I splice the wrap? But, more excitingly, gave the TPS a good look, and removed the remnants of the Wrap right where I did the base adjustment / that side of the connector, peeled it back and the blue wire is hanging on by a thread. I wrapped it up and I fired right up and held a low idle. I hit the gas and rpms revved like they never have, it sounded like a real machine. After the engine warmed it it settled down, and started idling funny again. I pulled the e brake off and on and it adjusted the idle, still down follow this. I went back to “jiggle” the tps wire, and it stalled. Did some electric tape surgery and it started back up, but still jittery. New TPS due in on Thursday, I don’t want to get my hopes up here, but I will let you get them up if this sounds like the culprit to you. The blue wire, totally buried. It’s probably the 5th time I’ve gotten excited so trying to temper myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
And yes, gas was totally emptied and then totally refilled. Added seafoam after refill. This is what got it to start consistently turn over, just wouldn’t then hold the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Tbap harness replaced, cleaned sensor, yes. Old Tbap wires were almost all spliced open.
 

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That is great news Grasshopper ! That wire on the TPS would totally cause the schitty operation and a new TPS will take care of that for the next 10 years ! If you are idling 1000-1200 and it does not stumble (at all) when you rev it , MAKE SURE you double check and verify your alternate TPS settings so that you can reinstall them EXACTLY on the new TPS . We may have to revisit the TPS base & flow settings after the new TPS but it is sounding good now.

I would also follow the CPS harness back UP the engine and carefully check for ANY PLACES THAT IT IS LAYING AGAINST THE ENGINE. This is important. check carefully the back side of the harness for places it may be rubbing thru as the harness meanders up and across the top of the engine. It is not impossible that the 21 will disappear with the new TPS but it is best to check the CPS harness thouroughly while you wait. I have always installed di-electric grease in ALL electrical connections as it waterproofs them. DI-Electric grease is about 8 bucks a tube at any automotive store.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Perfect. Tomorrow will be wire tracing day and a trip to the auto store for DI electric grease, in preparation for the TPS sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Did a wire trace tonight, from what I can see the TPS and CPS continuation wires look okay, nothing sitting against the engine. The tps seems totally erratic now, I went to grab a voltage reading and it was so high it can’t even be right. My “idle” with the parking brake on (sounds like an idle) is about 1500 now. Take off the parking brake, and I get a nice rev to a steady 2500rpms. I tried to follow the wire from the parking brake to see if it was pulling on another wire set or pinching something off, snapped a couple of pictures of what didn’t look right. A couple of clipped wires, And then a rats nest of wires. The clipped wires make me scratch my head a bit. I now have a code 22 again and a code 21. My flipping TPS sensor got delayed to next Wednesday, something about a delay due to some virus! I ordered a CPS since it was only about $50 and I’m ready to have this thing rolling, it’s coming from Walmart via parts direct I believe, and it’s guaranteed by next Tuesday. Figured worst case I get a fresh start, maybe a waste, but I’ve wasted more on less! Any comments on these wires? This shot is Basically right in front of and just above the gas pedal. It still starts up every time and the “idle” while it’s high, it holds steady.
2EC3B9B7-F75D-4CCF-A1EA-453BEA0578BC.jpeg
 

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Patience GrassHopper, the 22 code (TPS short) was bound to show up with the state of the wire harness Need that new TPS to see if that is a cure all. Clipped off harness wires are always worrisome . ............ Should be able to identify them from the wiring schematic in the back of your service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Shebang! We’re rolling. Idle is 1100, and sounds good. From what I’ve read elsewhere, idle Seems a little on the high side, but it’s a steady idle. Added the New TPS, and it solved the issue. Recommendation for anyone at the start of the process, buy the D screw adjustment tool, needle nose are a bad suggestion and the thread that says it can be adjusted sets you up for carpal tunnel, and undue heartache!

Going to give her some fresh oil tonight (it’s... dirty), then I’ve got an axle and tie rod to replace and I think I’ve got a sound machine! Paint job will follow that, my sons have some big plans, powder coating here we come.

Does 1100 idle seem reasonable? It sounds good running. Thanks for everything, sensei!!!
 

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Shebang! We’re rolling. Idle is 1100, and sounds good. From what I’ve read elsewhere, idle Seems a little on the high side, but it’s a steady idle. Added the New TPS, and it solved the issue. Recommendation for anyone at the start of the process, buy the D screw adjustment tool, needle nose are a bad suggestion and the thread that says it can be adjusted sets you up for carpal tunnel, and undue heartache!

Going to give her some fresh oil tonight (it’s... dirty), then I’ve got an axle and tie rod to replace and I think I’ve got a sound machine! Paint job will follow that, my sons have some big plans, powder coating here we come.

Does 1100 idle seem reasonable? It sounds good running. Thanks for everything, sensei!!!
1100 is perfect 1250 is max idle Grasshopper. Btw............Patron Silver is my favorite
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Done! Send me where it’s shipping to and it will be on the way!! I’ll do a virtual cheers with you when it gets there, legit, you rule!
 

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Thanks soooooo much Zim !
 

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Just to jump on this thread, my 2008 ECU would not run with the 528/660 settings either, but with the 2005 ECU it ran okay.
Currently running 540/690 with the '08, but it still stalls out after running a while when i come to a stop.

I'll try the 580/650 settings with the '08 ECU this week, once I get that D tool bit so I can stop attacking it with needle nose pliers ;)

It sure would be nice if the service manual listed both the baseline voltage and the final voltage. Then it'd be easier to compare machines... 07 vs 08, ranger vs rzr vs sportsman, etc
 
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