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2008 Ranger 700efi TPS Help needed

12K views 78 replies 3 participants last post by  vilord 
#1 ·
My son and I picked up a refurb project, 2008 Ranger Crew 700efi. We get a code 22 and I’ve read most of the strategies here. Mine seems a little different, as it won’t start unless I play with the throttle when cranking. Does this sound like a TPS issue? I Hooked the multimeter up to the yellow wire and it was reading .830. Got it down to .650, and still wouldn’t start. I haven’t done the “reset” To the .528 yet, but that’s next on my list. Now that we have the voltage set “correct” (we ended up screwing the D adjustment almost all the way out to get it low enough), the code 22 has gone away, but still not getting a start, it just cranks unless I hit the throttle. When it does run, lots of backfires so it seems really rich. I pulled the intake tube off and felt in for the butterfly valve, lots of soot in there. Did a paper towel wipe but I’ll probably get some carb cleaner for this too. Am I off base, does this make any sense for a TPI sensor? I’ve seen lots of “runs funny” in my searches, but nobody else is struggling with the start from what I can find. Have not done spark plugs yet, any merit here? Looking for a couple of things to try, thanks for any thoughts!
 
#31 ·
Ok, got the .660, hooked the throttle cable back up, its not wanting to hold the start :(. I tensioned the throttle cable back, intake tubes are all on, hopefully I’m missing something simple? It started after the tbap and held an idle, it will turn over now but won’t hold an idle, stalls out.
 
#33 ·
Hmmmmm, those are both TBAP codes . Clear them by removing the negative battery cable for 15 seconds and then see if they come back. If they come back, you may have a couple TBAP wires hooked up wrong.

BYW, what did the fuel pressure end up being ?
 
#34 ·
I didn’t push the tbap in quite enough the first go around apparently, it rattled loose at start. Unfortunately, I plugged it back in and I’m still getting the codes, and it turns over then stalls out. Good news is that the .660 is holding strong (need something positive out of this). Going to take a break unless there’s something easily identifiable to try that I f’d up. Son of a.... oh ya, verified wires, they’re in right, wondering if I didn’t crimp well enough or something stupid. Hate to cut what I just wired, but that might be where I’m at.
 
#35 ·
Fuel pressure was 39 exactly. Battery was the first thing I replaced a month ago. Smart money is on my wiring skills, or lack thereof. 41 and 45 are gone now.

On the fuel pressure, when I turn the key it goes to 39, holds for about 3 seconds, then would drop. Based on it sounding somewhat right, I didn’t think much of it, but now that I still can’t run, does this make any sense? Should 39psi hold?
 
#37 ·
Zim, when you said "you did'nt push it in far enough" were you talking about the sensor into the boot or the connection at the plug ? I would keep checking for the codes to return..

The manual says it needs to hold 39 psi when the pump shuts off but THEY NEVER DO. That should work if it hits 39 psi on the first lick.

HOW OLD IS THE FUEL in the tank ? Doesn't take ethanol long to go bad . This is IMPORTANT !

Zim, assuming the wiring is good and the fuel is good and the plugs are good, there is a possibility that your engine will not run with the TPS set at factory spec . (slim chance) BPS from here on PRC had a 2008 700 a few weeks ago that would not. This has been a long time problem on the 2007 700's but his was the first time I had ever heard of it effecting a 2008. There doesn't seem to be a ton of 2008 700's out there so it just may not come up that often.

I would check the plugs and after a couple more 'no starts' check for codes . Let us know about the AGE of the fuel.
Possibly by then BPS may have finished breakfast and a cigar and will give this a look .
 
#36 ·
Marinated on this, and double checked my wiring (now that I’m plugged in), all codes are gone and wiring looks good. I’m thinking I’ll change the spark plugs tomorrow, and if that doesn’t work, I’m curious on your insight on the fuel pump. I hear it charge when I turn the ignition one turn, but again it charges then drops. Not sure if this adds up or not? Your insight has been awesome, going to get this sucker going here, only 600 hours on it so I’ve got faith.
 
#38 ·
Zim, found the post from BPS with the settings he used on the 2008 700. You still need to check your fuel quality ! Like the settings I have to use on the 2007 700 these 2008 settings are way off from factory spect of .528 BASE & .660 Flow




[IMG alt="BPS"]https://www.prcforum.com/d2/avatars/m/72/72002.jpg?1576626953[/IMG]




BPS
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Joined May 22, 2018

541 Posts









Well, with your help, I got it. What ended up working is base at .580 and flow at .650. The flow number is with the engine off, noting that since it does increase with engine running (air flow). Idles about 1050, drives great and doesn't stall when coming off throttle. Check out the picture. I've never seen daylight through a completely closed butterfly on the side. I can't imagine it being wear but it probably is why the normal settings wouldn't work. With a new TB retailing for $450 we're gonna roll
 
#39 ·
Fuel - I topped it off when I got it (added about a half a tank), but other than that, judging by the care it seems like this had, the fuel could be old.

I’ll be adding the plugs tonight, hoping that or the fuel can do the trick, as my D screw is Making me nervous, from my need nose escapde.

yes, tbap came out of the connector on the boot. I’ve Probably worn out my battery too with start trials, so I’ll throw a charge on it tonight as well to make sure I’m not missing something simple.
 
#40 ·
'Fuel - I topped it off when I got it (added about a half a tank) "

Zim, you need to DRAIN THE TANK and put in fresh fuel . Easy to pull the tank and dump it out . Trying to start it with OLD ETHANOL is not going to work .
 
#43 ·
Roger, Wilco.

Spark plugs did jack shcit. Going to dump the gas tonight hopefully, and will report back. My wife is asking if I’ve got a separate relationship going on (kidding), bottom Line, thanks again, you rule. Going to get this mother trucker going eventually, then I owe you a drink of your choice at minimum!!
 
#44 ·
New gas seemed to help, but still missing something it seems. It turned over probably 3/6 times, got a decent idle up to 1050, then Stalled out after about 5 seconds. Going to add the sea foam now and see if that gives any boost.
 
#47 ·
We are almost home Zim, once you are sure you have worked through ALL the old dinosaur squeezings in the fuel line, injectors and filter , it may be time to install BPS's 'special voltages' if that idle won't come down. Make sure your throttle isn't hanging up and check for codes again..
 
#48 ·
No codes, throttle doesn’t seem to be hanging up. I pulled the TPS voltage again today as a sanity check (doesn’t sound like the mixture is quite right) and I’m at .796 now! Wth, why does this jolt up like that? I would think a code would throw with it going high like that... makes me feel like I’m doing it wrong. The really really good news though, is that it’s starting up for me now, so progress is felt! Am I missing something or is time to bite the TPS bullet?
 
#49 ·
Zim, make sure you are getting the torx screw tight on the TPS . I would back the 'D' screw all the way off and remove the throttle cable and then check the voltage on JUST THE TPS. See if that alone has changed. If it has, it is new OEM TPS time.
 
#50 ·
Ok, tested, it’s new OEM TPS time.

before I tested, I took it out for an enjoyment ride / sanity improvement as it now starts right up (all you, thanks). Weird thing happened and don’t know what it means:

drove about 1/2 mile and brought it back to the garage. Parked, with my foot on the break for about 2 minutes while talking to my wife (in high gear) and RPMS started to go up to about 3500. Threw the parking brake and they dropped to “idle”, which has been about 1600RPM. Took the parking brake off and RPMS went back up. Did that a few times with the same results. The only way I could go reverse to high gear was by throwing the parking brake on for a second to get the“idle” to drop. I’m not sure the correlation between idle, throttle cable and parking brake, but it was a new one for me. Does this indicate anything other that WTphu?
 
#51 ·
zim, that is voo-doo with that parking brake thing snafu. Just FYI, if you are having high RPM shifting challenges, ALWAYS turn the key OFF.....then make the shift......then restart. Forcing a high RPM shift will KILL your transmission shift dogs. Anything over 1250 RPM @ 'idle' is 'to high'. Once we get a new TPS in there, you will need to check the clutches and the belt. 2008 was the first year of the one way clutch bearing . I am thinking with the ludicrous idle RPM that the clutch is kicking in the secondary clutch and when you step on the brake and apply the EB, it helps to drag down the engine. It will probably go away with NORMAL idle (1250 or under) RPM .

When you checked the 'TPS alone' , what was the voltage ?
 
#53 ·
.535 is the base alignment I get when I back everything off. I’m confident that screw was tight. I recalibrated again tonight while I wait for a sensor (I’m assuming that’s too much movement based on previous comments?). One thing I’m noticing is that she likes a little extra throttle. When I reset the TPS and re-tensioned, it cranked without starting again - the throttle cable was still a little loose so I put the 1/8” tension on and it liked that, and turned over. I can hear the knock in the heads that from what I’m believe is the case on cars, is air to fuel ratio (?), I played with the throttle tension a bit and if I go about 1/8 past taught on the cable, that’s the bare minimum to get it to turn over, and it tends to cut out and stall still. More throttle tension, and it starts right up and holds “idle” in neutral better, but it’s a very up/down almost like an engine rev while “idleing”. Since it likes the throttle tension, does that tell us it wants more fuel? Wondering if an injector is clogged up? Grasping a bit here as the small voltage increase surprises me that it would keep it from starting, but I know it’s sensitive.
 
#54 ·
Can't run with the throttle cable under tension or you will have crazy wild high idle regardless, especially once she gets hot. MUST have at least a 1/6" slack before the cable starts to pull it open.

If you want to add fuel and timing, Try Robbie's (BPS's) alternate 2008 TPS base and FLOW settings while you are waiting.

.580 base and .650 flow .
 
#57 ·
Zim, check the CRANK POSITION SENSOR harness . (passenger side rear of engine by the Stator harness) It could be rubbing through or the connection could be burnt.
I am still hoping you can get Robbies alternate BASE & FLOW voltages in there to see if they make any difference
 
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