[RobRangerXP]

I am new to posting on the boards but I have gotten a lot of information off of them.
Here is my problem, I own a 2009 Ranger XP Special edition 700 since new the machine has been great to me (I am disabled and live on a few acres so it gets me around) just recently it started to have a starting issue, when trying to start at first the engine spins like no fuel then sometimes catches but sputters and you need to pump the peddle to get it running. Once it is running she runs great no hesitation or anything.:confused-new:

It seems like it is running rich but that is hard for me to tell as I use it to pick up rocks and branches that fell so it will use more fuel doing that. After reading on this and other boards that the 2009 had fuel pump issues I ordered a new pump and replaced, the only other thing replaced on this has been the battery as it was 6 years old. I was thinking of bad fuel but then why would it run great, and I do mean great spins tires and all.

Has anyone had this type of problem I hate to bring it to the dealer as I am on a fixed income. When I was a kid I used to rebuild motors and all but fuel injection is new to me, I do have the service manual and the unit has no codes to point me in a direction and the part of hard start but runs great puts me in left field, and I have yet to see a post like this unless I missed it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Rob [/B][/B][/B]

 

[JJaxon]

Possibly water in the fuel - tank. If it sits fuel and water will separate, water will settle in bottom, cause a no fire no start. Once it fires off, water and fuel get mixed so it runs fine? I'm no technician, but throwing that out there as a possibility. Look with a flash light into the gas tank, water will appear as bubbles in the bottom. A place to start anyway, and cheap.

 

[RobRangerXP]

Possibly water in the fuel - tank. If it sits fuel and water will separate, water will settle in bottom, cause a no fire no start. Once it fires off, water and fuel get mixed so it runs fine? I'm no technician, but throwing that out there as a possibility. Look with a flash light into the gas tank, water will appear as bubbles in the bottom. A place to start anyway, and cheap.

Thanks I will check that as today I was planning on spending time on this.

 

[pede58]

Could be a T-bap problem, sensor in the tube from the throttle body to the air filter, check for broken or chaffed wires most times at the plastic tie and sometimes very hard to see, might just need a good cleaning with map sensor cleaner. I might also change sparkplugs if it's never been done. Does it do this all the time or only on a cold start?

 

[Roadrunner]

As mentioned Tbap harness. Common failure on the old model rangers

 

[RobRangerXP]

Thanks for the reply, plugs just changed (actually second change as I like to keep it running good with the low speeds and rpms) I have to get back to you as when I know when it is cold but not all the time as for warm I have not used it for a while as my back has been acting up. I did just change the battery as it was 6 years old and this winter i kept it on a trickle charge. I will check on the wires. I will get back to the board tonight for an update.

 

[RobRangerXP]

I will check on that thanks. I will get back on tonight after this adventure lol I cannot complain about the machine it has been great to me.

 

[RobRangerXP]

I wanted to fill everyone in on what was wrong with the unit.

When I used to be a tech for HVAC I went by KISS (keep it simple stupid) First I looked in the tank and everything was good then I removed the air filter and found old sticky fuel in the bottom of the housing after cleaning that out I went to the throttle body and checked all the wiring found nothing then I removed the throttle body and on the inlet side where the rubber from the air filter it was covered with a white crud then I removed the throttle body and it was beyond dirty I used 2 cans of carb cleaner on it after I put it back together it started right up and sounded like it did when they delivered it.

I have run cleaner through it (through the fuel tank) but I guess it was not good enough.

I want to thank everyone here that responded to the problem.

Thanks.
Rob

 

[POS POLARIS]

Rob,

Glad to hear its running better. I was suprised the first time I pulled the throttle body off of one of these polaris twin engines. They're always dirty and are actually designed to run that way. One thing to watch out for is when it gets so sooted up that the throttle blade gets sticky on the throttle body, as well as needing to clean the soot off of the t-bap (the part that is exposed inside the air inlet). For some reason these engines seem to blow back some of the the exhaust into the intake on occasion. Maybe it the way the cam timing is setup on them, I'm not sure. for whatever reason it seemed that the 700s were more prone to issues from it then the 800s are.

I've had decent results running a can of sea foam through the tank every year or so, but sadly doesn't do anything for the throttle body.

It's been about 800 hours since I've had mine off, I really need to take it off and see how bad it is! lol

 

[RobRangerXP]

I ran a cleaner through the tank and it was supposed to clean it all up (that is what it said anyway guess they are wrong) so I did not think of pulling it apart and getting into it. I am just hesitant with this as it is fuel injection and I have never worked on that system. Also on the left side bottom of the throttle body is a small tube about 1 inch with a looks like a small breather on it, the service manual does not even show this part do you know what it is?? There is no tube coming off of it.

Also the machine has given me no problems at all. Like I have said I do not beat on it ( I do try and open it up sometimes just to clean it out) it climbs the drainage ditches if needed and all, all and all I love it and very happy I bought this instead of the mule I was thinking of. A little expensive but a great machine.

It only has like 250 hours on it.

 

[POS POLARIS]

I believe that tube you're talking about was some sort of breather or something that was only on the 700 throttle body. I'm trying to remember if they were still intact on my old 700s when I had them or if they fell off too.... I really don't know what they're purpose was, or if you'll hurt anything by running with out them.

I think it was a short piece of tubing with a small little filter on the end? if a person was concerned, I think you could get a small piece of clear tubing. maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch? and cut it to a couple inches in length. Then maybe get one of those cheap clear lawn mower filters, a couple clamps and I think it would be fine?

If I remember right, the vent wasn't for the intake part of the throttle body, but instead vented the area on the LH side under the throttle body cover? if so, I won't be concerned about it unless you spend alot of time in deep water or make alot of water crossings.


I used to be a carburator man, but these machines have required that I learn EFI. They're actually pretty simple to figure out, alot of times simpler than a carb. The only thing you'll most likely face on your EFI system on a 700 is maybe a TPS replacement down the road, and a t-bap repair harness. Try and keep the TPS and t bap wires tied up as best you can so they will bend and vibrate as little as possible. This is what destroys them. Also, on the 700s you need to keep an eye on the rubber boot between the head and the throttle body. Vibration over time will cause cracks to start (generally on the RH side) and if left long enough, will work all the way through and your engine will start sucking in dirt. I felt it was a good investment to replace them every 3-4 years or every 5-700 hours. If your machine has a divorced trans/rear diff, pay attention to the RH bracket that holds the diff in place. Over time that bracket will start to crack in the front near the frame and cause the park brake rotor to lif and cut into the park brake assembly. It will also cause choppy engagement issues. Just something to watch

Take care.

 

[pede58]

My guess on the tube it's a drain, the cable cover does not have a gasket plus you may get some gas through the butterfly shaft. Another problem with the boot that Adam refers to can be damaged from people sitting in the center of the seat, Polaris has a refit kit for this. Last week when I was cleaning my throttle body noticed the back plastic cover(notch in frame) starting to bend down so I took it off and reinforced it with some steel, now I have no give in the seat at that point.

 

[RobRangerXP]

I will keep that in mind and an eye on it, no one rides it except me (I live alone) but I will be keeping an eye on what you an Adam recommend. I might just pick up the part from the throttle body to the head just in case as I already have about 250 hours and it is 6 years old. Thanks for all you guys help, I am or was a member on another Ranger site and after seeing over 60 views I did not get one bit of advice. You guys are great here.

 

[keith isenberg]

I enjoy this club thoroughly. I had a starting issue the first day i got my 2008 700xp. Contacted my local dealer who told me i'd have to change my throttle body because everything was factory set. My wife went on line and found a u-tube video of just what to do. I bought a harness to go from the throttle body to a volt meter and a cheap tool online to adjust my idle. I had the job done in about 15min and back together and saved over $600 big ones. Got good advice from another dealer that i trust now and never burn anything less than premium gas. It started everyday this winter in sub zero weather nine miles out in saginaw bay this year. Love my polaris !! By the way Ebay was selling those used throttle bodys by the dozen. Watch out who you put your trust and faith in !!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[RobRangerXP]

Thanks I will keep an eye out. This site is great and the help I got was even better, Like I stated the machine never gave me a lick of trouble I pull barb wire (to tighten it) I have pulled cement out of the ground, I jut installed a front receiver so I can move things into the barn easier but most of all I get around on it (being a cripple lol) and most of the time I have it idling because I do not want to stop and start and kill the battery. I just changed that after 6 years so I have no complaints. The dealer was a little help but not much and they did offer for a good fee to put it on their computer hell I knew there were no codes and that is why I bought the service manual.

I will have to post a photo of it on here it looks almost new it has I think about 260 hours on it/

The only thing new to me is the fuel injection and that does not look all that bad.

I do have one question I was reading that if the Bendix needs to be changed you need to pull the flywheel they gave a part number for that puller (in the service manual PT# 2871043) is there one puller that is better than another with that?? I am not having any problems but if a tool is reasonable I do like to get them lol

 

[POS POLARIS]

Rob,

Yes, I do believe you need to pull the flywheel to get to the bendix.

I just did that the other day to get to the stator for replacement. All you need is a good heavy duty steering wheel puller to get that flywheel off. you most likely already have one, or can get one fairly cheap at any auto parts store.

 

[RobRangerXP]

Thanks something to keep in mind.