[longball]

Good afternoon,
Last October I bought a Ranger that used to belong to my dad. The guy who owned it between dad and I only put 15 hours on it so I thought it would still be in great shape. Wish I could go back and do that day over again. I've been chasing a code 51 and No. 1 cylinder flooding problem since February. I believe I have reached the limits of my mechanical knowledge and skill so I'm searching for some suggestions. Last hunting season I smelled raw fuel a few times while riding to hunting spots. It seemed to run fine so I thought I was picking up on a problem that didn't really exist. Then one day it shut down one cylinder completely and I got a code 51. I read about common problems with the t-bap wiring so I replaced it with an OTB unit. When that didn't fix the problem I took it to a local dealership who told me it was a bad injector so I bought a set and put them in. That didn't fix the problem so I swapped sides with the injectors, which didn't fix it either. Then I swapped sides with injector wiring harnesses, still the same. I tried to find a local parts store who had a tool to test fuel pressure but nobody had what I needed. I put in new spark plugs, checked to make sure I didn't have a broken wire in the tps, double checked my t-bap fix, checked for broken wires from the injector plug all the way to the ECU plug with multimeter, then purchased a new ECU. None of that fixed it either. 30 minutes ago the mailman delivered new spark plug wires and air filter. While I was waiting on those to arrive I cleaned the t-Bap sensor itself. I don't want to just keep throwing money at it but I'm not sure what to do now. Any ideas?

Out of curiosity, if the voltage on the tps sensor was out of spec, or the fuel pump was going bad wouldn't that affect both cylinders instead of just one? I appreciate your time.


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[Jungleman]

LB, the smell of gas, the shutting down of one cylinder, and the 51 code are all symptoms of LOW FUEL PRESSURE.. "I tried to find a local parts store who had a tool to test fuel pressure but nobody had what I needed." pull the cap off the end of the fuel injector rail and clamp this on it .. https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP783...2&sr=8-1&keywords=actron+fuel+pressure+tester

And here is a lifetime pump and fuel pressure regulator...And check the throttle body adapter for cracking right where it bolts on to the head.. Every 2-3 years they crack and lean out the engine while sucking in all kinds of dirt..http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-...ash=item58f81cc7dd:g:4XcAAOSwc-tY3CZy&vxp=mtr

 

[longball]

Thanks for the reply jungleman. I've read enough of this forum as a lurker that I was hoping you would chime in. I think I have a bead on a tester here locally. If that pans out I should know something by Wednesday evening. Just out of curiosity, why would low fuel pressure cause one cylinder to have an excess of fuel? To my simple brain, it seems like it would be just the opposite. One thing I didn't mention, that I probably should have, is that I had fuel in my oil. A lot of it.


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[pede58]

Both injectors fire every time and with the machine up to temperature this is no problem as the off cylinder is hot enough to vaporize the unused fuel, the problem is short runs with a cold motor will allow the fuel to find it way into the crankcase. I had to scratch my head on this one, not the best design and I now make sure to run it long enough to get it to temperature.

 

[Jungleman]

Thanks for the reply jungleman. I've read enough of this forum as a lurker that I was hoping you would chime in. I think I have a bead on a tester here locally. If that pans out I should know something by Wednesday evening. Just out of curiosity, why would low fuel pressure cause one cylinder to have an excess of fuel? To my simple brain, it seems like it would be just the opposite. One thing I didn't mention, that I probably should have, is that I had fuel in my oil. A lot of it.


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Yep, what Larry said about the fuel and firing is true. You may also have/had multiple snafus which is not uncommon and that being the TB/Map harness being bad which will make the computer default to full on rich to protect the engine which will also dump excess fuel in the crankcase . Just curious, what was the condition of the air filter ? Any excess oil on the filter ? I would pull the TB/Map probe out of the air box boot (boot behind the throttle body) and clean it with Map or electronics cleaner. That probe being dirty will wreak havoc with the mixture. Also check that boot for rips or holes. Check that throttle body adapter for cracking and make sure the throttle body itself is at least fairly clean. Make sure you check the fuel pressure with the engine hot as the pumps that appear normal cold, will drop pressure big time once they get hot. Once you get all the little ducks in a row on these 700's, they will treat you right for a good long time. Oh yeah........ dump that old oil and filter ASAP........if the crankcase gets to full, it will siphon the 'goil' up into the combustion chamber.. I dropped a gallon of 'goil' out of a buddies 2006 Ranger 6X6 one time. Yeah, a freak'n gallon........He had everything go wrong at once... bad fuel pump/bad TB/MAP sensor/ bad TM/Bap harness and.......................he only drove it about an 1/8 mile to get to his boat in the am and a 1/8 of a mile back at night. It never did get off the cold mark.

 

[longball]

Yep, what Larry said about the fuel and firing is true. You may also have/had multiple snafus which is not uncommon and that being the TB/Map harness being bad which will make the computer default to full on rich to protect the engine which will also dump excess fuel in the crankcase . Just curious, what was the condition of the air filter ? Any excess oil on the filter ? I would pull the TB/Map probe out of the air box boot (boot behind the throttle body) and clean it with Map or electronics cleaner. That probe being dirty will wreak havoc with the mixture. Also check that boot for rips or holes. Check that throttle body adapter for cracking and make sure the throttle body itself is at least fairly clean. Make sure you check the fuel pressure with the engine hot as the pumps that appear normal cold, will drop pressure big time once they get hot. Once you get all the little ducks in a row on these 700's, they will treat you right for a good long time. Oh yeah........ dump that old oil and filter ASAP........if the crankcase gets to full, it will siphon the 'goil' up into the combustion chamber.. I dropped a gallon of 'goil' out of a buddies 2006 Ranger 6X6 one time. Yeah, a freak'n gallon........He had everything go wrong at once... bad fuel pump/bad TB/MAP sensor/ bad TM/Bap harness and.......................he only drove it about an 1/8 mile to get to his boat in the am and a 1/8 of a mile back at night. It never did get off the cold mark.

Thank you for the explanation gentleman.

The air filter was due for a change and the inside of the air box was covered in oil. Unbeknownst to me the seal under the air box lid had a small spot where it wasn't sealing properly. I'm not sure for how long, maybe 10hrs of run time, but I have a replacement sitting at the house. I have a new air filter sitting on the shelf so I will pull the old one apart and check for oil. I also pulled the t-bap sensor Saturday and cleaned it with maf sensor cleaner but haven't started it since. When I discovered this problem was serious was when I checked the oil and it was way overfilled. Probably had an extra quart in it. I changed it then and in the 1/2 mile test after the new ecu it's already creeping up slightly on the dipstick. I'll change it again before I do any road testing after the new fuel pump. I've checked the TB and boot and cannot find evidence of any cracking.


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[Toxic-21]

Both injectors fire every time and with the machine up to temperature this is no problem as the off cylinder is hot enough to vaporize the unused fuel, the problem is short runs with a cold motor will allow the fuel to find it way into the crankcase. I had to scratch my head on this one, not the best design and I now make sure to run it long enough to get it to temperature.

LB, not sure where you are located, but in colder climates, condensation will raise the oil level as well.
Same scenerio Larry described, short runs, not getting up to temp will allow this to happen.
( not fixing your problem, just wanted to point this out as well)

 

[longball]

Thank again for all the help. A friend and neighbor brought his pressure gauge by this evening.
https://i.imgur.com/cYKVUBT.jpg
Based on what jungleman said about pumps testing good when cold, then dropping pressure as they warm up, I believe y'all have located my problem. This was the cold pressure.


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[longball]

My friend turned the key off and back on twice, which indicated an increase in pressure on the gauge each time. Although the pressure jumped significantly, it never did get over 30psi.


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[Toxic-21]

My friend turned the key off and back on twice, which indicated an increase in pressure on the gauge each time. Although the pressure jumped significantly, it never did get over 30psi.


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You definitely need a new fuel pump and regulator.

Chalk another one up for Kris, this guy is good!

 

[longball]

You definitely need a new fuel pump and regulator.

Chalk another one up for Kris, this guy is good!

Looks like he nailed it.

I ordered the pump jungleman recommended this morning. The regulators are out of stock so it'll be a week or two before it arrives. Thanks again to everyone for your help.

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[fswan]

Yeah, the mother-land would be littered with non-workings Po's if Kris ever decides to switch brands! Probably ought to start a Go Fund Me page for him... :loyal:

 

[longball]

Yeah, the mother-land would be littered with non-workings Po's if Kris ever decides to switch brands! Probably ought to start a Go Fund Me page for him... :loyal:

If he switches brands I guess we'll just have to switch to the same one. Hopefully he'll let us know which forum to sign up on when he does.


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[Natethedog]

If Kris moves to another brand, gonna have to send Swanny back to the Holiday Inn Express.

 

[longball]

Finally got everything I needed and returned from a work trip. I've made it to the black canister filter. It looks to me like it is in two pieces. Do I remove both or just the bottom piece? If I do remove both, what should I attach the black wire to?
https://i.imgur.com/zfBdunD.jpg


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[Jungleman]

LB, throw the whole thing away. On that middle seam is where they pinhole and leak. Just ziptie that black wire up to...............anything. Do you have your 3" piece of gas submersible fuel line and two clamps to put in it's place ?

 

[longball]

Yessir I do. Ordered the Walbro piece you referenced. Also removed and cleaned out the tank so it'll get fresh, clean gas when I refill it. Thank you again for your help.


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[Jungleman]

 

[longball]

Thank you for the pictures. Hopefully this will be the last question but in the last picture of yours I noticed the spring is gone from the metal rod. Should I remove it? Other than the strainer, what am I missing?

https://i.imgur.com/iW4pEna.jpg


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[Jungleman]

LB, that looks BEAUTIFUL.......Leave the spring on..... that looks as clean as a brand new fuel assembly.. Did you dunk it in a parts cleaner ? Just cut in the fuel filter after the tank....