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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2010 Crew 800 from a yuppy last year, my first ATV experience. It was a company vehicle in an oilfield previous to the yuppy, where it received regular service.

It has been relatively ok, tops out around 35 MPH with wife and kids. It seems to lack a little power.... and the final drive, especially in the rear, roars loud. Took it to the Stealership to have all fluids changed, and they say the tranny / main gearcase fluid had shavings and it is going bad. They wanted shop rate to tear it apart for further troubleshooting, but would not ballpark how many hours approximately, so I brought it home. They were not very customer-oriented, had they been decent to me they probably could have conned me into trading it lol.

I have not been able to find a rebuild kit for the main gearcase, although Polaris sells all the internal parts for about $1500.
Any suggestions on best course of action ?
How to get the parts used or cheaper ?

I heard the 2010 Crew has a one-piece tranny that is attached to other components ? I am trying to determine whether we can remove the tranny and take it apart to see what is wrong...Is this a task I can handle at home ? We have mechanical knowledge and tools....or would I be better off buying a rebuilt or used one? (which I have had no luck finding anywhere in the country).

I would love to see pics or a video of a 2010 rebuild if anyone would like to share....

Any information from you experienced folks would surely be appreciated. I am still paying on my buggy and cant afford to put 2k more in it. Pa-in-law is an ASE mechanic but unfamiliar with ATVs. We will give it our best shot. I want this thing to be dependable and maybe a little less loud, deer hear me coming from miles away lol !

Thanks for taking the time to read. I will report updates if I am able to make any progress....God Bless

Jay
 

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I would rebuild it buy all new bearings at least and chains and you should be good T&S there not that hard to pull apart and rebuild taking it out is the p.i.t.a.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
We are pretty sure its a bearing. Has anyone ever removed the tranny or rebuilt one ? How long is the process / need special tools ? Anything else I should fix while having it out ? Any input is greatly appreciated....

JBird
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Powersportsnation has a great selection, but no drivetrain components for my model....what year model replacement parts will fit a 2010 ? Would a 2013 parts fit up ? If not does anyone know what years would ? Im considering buying a whole ranger from salvage....Thanks for all the info...
 

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what you need is something like this-

2013 Polaris 800 Ranger Crew Transmission Gear Box Rear Differential Final Drive | eBay

I've had these transmissions apart, and you are correct, it is most likely a bearing, or multiple. I've never had a failing transmission effect top speed or power although you think it would, but It's most noticeable when driving at low speeds. it can growl if you can detect it, which is tough to the untrained ear. when they get real bad they will start jumping teeth, or busting holes the the case. don't let it get that bad. More than likely you can rebuild it with good bearings and little else if you take it apart now and don't wait. These transmissions I wouldn't say hard, but if you're not used to that sort of thing, it could be challenging. The toughest part I think is putting the cover back on when going back together and keeping the chain tensioner in place.

This is a pretty good video on the rebuild. I know it's for a sportsman, but is very similar if not identical to the ranger- helped me quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Status Report

Finally got this rig in my shop and began teardown. Its been slow-going due to rust and seized bolts. I am considering replacing the brake assemblies and shocks due to t the amount of rust. Is there any one store/website that has unbeatable low prices on parts that someone could recommend ? I would much rather get used parts if anyone had a suggestion as to who may carry most of them...

The rear axles are stuck in the differential and wont come out, just gave them a thorough soaking with some PB blaster and WD40 Specialist (Rust Penetrating), as I ve seen suggested in prior posts. These damn things are a beast.

Any thoughts or suggestion are always appreciated. I'm sure yall are busy with the holidays, so thanks in advance for taking the time. Maybe Santa will be a new Ranger, so I can torch the old one..:pirate::pirate::pirate::pirate::pirate:


Merry Christmas - JBird
 

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Getting stuck axles out is always a pain. I use a pry bar or heel bar on either side and pry evenly. usually the come out. but if you pry too hard you can bust the aluminum case. I was told that there's a pickle fork out there just for CV's. I bought a set but I think they're more for automotive use since they seem a little wide for the rangers. I'll have to grab them and put them up against the rear hubs and see if it might work.

Others here have had to pull the axle apart, and weld an adapter so they could put a slide hammer on the hub to get them out. I thankfully have not had one that bad.

Give a shout if you need help, I'll be around here and there through the holidays. I just had head gaskets go out on a Duramax, so I can imagine where my time will be going the next couple weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update With Pics

We ended up removing the axle boots and will fight with them when we get it on the bench. I was hoping we would be out of the woods with that, but nooooo now the DAMNED prop shaft is stuck. We have soaked it, heated it with a torch and put a comealong on it trying to get it loose !!! Really could use some help from you RangerMasters out there. I am attaching pics of that problem and some others. If anyone has any thoughts, advice or solutions I will petition to have Christmas renamed in your honor lol. What a flippin nightmare. Any other problems I should look for ? I will also be removing all rust and corrosion, then priming and painting. I want to get everything done now and NEVER do this again lol.

Merry Christmas / Happy Holidays

JBird
 

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Will the propshaft yoke take any grease? if not, I'd remove the zerk, and dig out the crud, spray some penetrating oil in the hole, re-install the zerk, or a new one and try pumping some grease to it. aside from that, I'd keep soaking the splines with penetrating oil, and using heat until it breaks free. Worst case scenerio you could torch the U joint and pull the trans with the yoke attached. Never seen one seized up that bad.

Try a slide hammer or a style of pickle fork on the stuck CVs. Keep soaking them with penetrating oil. If you cant find a picklefork that works, you might be able to make a wedge out of flatiron or something? at least get something that you can get between what you're prying with and the case so you don't break the case out if things get real western. I still haven't looked at my CV forks to see if they'd work on rangers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thats a great idea POSPolaris, Ill give it a shot tomorrow. Also, if it fails, just burn the Ujoint out? Could we take apart the Ujoint as well ? Is it replaceable at that point ? If I absolutely have to cut that shaft with a Metabo, where should I do it ? I was wondering in a worst case scenario if a could cut it, put it back together, then weld a coupler on the shaft ? I'm a welder, so not too hip on Ujoints, but Pa-In-Law acted like taking it apart from the Ujoint was not an option when we worked on it earlier.

If anyone has any suggestions on the best places or process for cheap parts, used parts or an ATV salvage I sure would appreciate it....I have checked with PowerSportsNation, Steves in Tifton GA, AMazon and Ebay as of now....

Thanks in advance, Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holidays

JBird
 

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You could attempt to take the U joint apart in the machine, but it might be pretty stuck.

If you must cut, I'd be tempted to cut the sized U joint yoke before I cut the tubular shaft. It would be almost impossible to get the shaft re-welded strait and in phase as it was before. not to mention balancing. If you destroy the seized yoke (cut it just behind the U joint caps) you can buy a new yoke only for about $80 and put it back on the driveline with a new U joint. a whole new propshaft will set you back closer to $300. You can get generic u joints from the parts stores for just a few bucks.

I would call Powersports nation. they might have a propshaft setup for you to buy. I've had great luck with these guys for sourcing parts. you've called them and they didn't have what you needed? What did you price out? complete transmissions? I'm just curious...

Best of luck on it tomorrow. I'll be out most of the day but will try to check back in tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow, what a beast. Ended up having to cut most all bolts off with Metabo, worst case scenario realized. After 2 hours of heating prop shaft, ended up having to beat the Ujoint apart, so yoke is still on. Could not get the ends of rear axles off, so we cut it down to just the shaft. How in the hell can these things seize so bad ? Pa-in-law is a trained pro and said he has never seen the likes of this lol. We have the other axle soaking in PB blaster and hope it will come out tomorrow or we will have to cut it apart too.

The tranny itself had lots of metal. One bearing came apart and another bearing on what we believe is the reverse shaft. ON the end of the shaft where the bearing was, it appears to have scraped into the case some, shown in the pic, we think it will be OK but would like other opinions.....

We need some direction on what all chains and bearings to replace while we are in there and any tips or tricks on re-installation. It will probably take me a week to shop the parts and find the best price, so we have plenty of time lol. We usually ride it to other family's house on Christmas, but I think we will miss out this year. Cue up my kids crying lol.

Thanks for yall thoughts and ideas, I know everyone is busy with the holidays....

Merry CHristmas and Happy Holidays

JG
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It appears I will need the reverse shaft and bearing at a minimum, powersportsnation does not deal in transmission internals. Anyone know where to get a used or cheap one ?

Is there a rebuild kit or bearing kit sold by anyone for the transmission ?

Thanks in advance - JBird

PS - the guys at powersportsnation have been friendly and responsive, highly recommend them, wish they were a little cheaper...
 

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ouch. Glad you got her apart when you did.!

Defiantly gonna need a shaft for sure. You wont' know for sure on the case till you get a new bearing and check it out. or you could pop off one of the other ones and test fit. More than likely you're ok from the looks of the picture. You can always use some bearing mount when going back together for some extra security that that bearing race won't move.


As for low cost internal parts. You won't find them used. at least I don't think so. If you cant get the axle shafts out you'll have to buy the new cups which I'm thinking are part of the side gear assemblys? but I'm not for sure. A bit pricey.

As for chains, if the chains haven't been jumping, they're probably fine. You can afford to replace the reverse chain if you feel the need, I've never done it, or broken one. the main chain is too expensive to replace, and will never break unless damaged.

As far as replacement bearings go, you can replace the bulk of them just buy going to the local parts store.

These are the bearings that will fit and replace the bearings for the two selector/input shafts (that the low/reverse chain runs on), as well as the shaft that drives the main chain, and engages the shaft that goes out to the propshaft. The only bearings it doesn't cover are the ones needed for the rear drive gear (slow turning) and the propshaft drive shaft (also slow turning)

In my experience, these are the only bearings I've seen fail in the polaris transaxle setup.

The part numbers listed below are genaric and should work for all major brands of bearings. You'll need bearings without grease/dust seals, but in a pinch, those seals can be pried off with a screwdriver with no ill effects if that's all your part store has- Avoid Chinese bearings since that's what polaris likes to run in these transmissions. I usually go with a USA or Japanese made bearing. I just bought a set of Natchi bearings for $50 total for my transmission to have on hand.

quantity- part#
2- 6203
1-6204
2-6205
1-6207

U joints are a P338.

Since your CV's are now toast, I'd recommend calling American CV. They've got axles built out of great quality stuff, and their prices are VERY affordable.

By the time you buy bearings, buy the busted shaft in the trans, the reverse chain, and the new rear hubs, you might be getting close to what you would have spent on a used transmission.

Something to think about.

Check out the sportsman transmission rebuild videos on you tube, they're pretty much identical to the ranger transmissions. I can try and help if need be, but I've only gone into one so far.

Best of luck

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Adam - you are the man, thanks kindly for passing on the info on American CV, spoke with Jill and she got me going with a quote for some high quality chromoly CVs and Ujoints. She says her book calls for 3 Ujoints in that prop shaft, whereas Im thinking it's 2 ? ANyone else have a vote on that ?

Still trying to decide on the tranny parts. Im looking to see if someone makes a rebuild kit or bearing kit and Im about to look into the Natchi bearings you mentioned as well. A used tranny from PSN is $1100, also found a "Parts only" unit for 600, trying to get more info on that.

As mentioned earlier, had to cut up the passenger side CV inboard joint back to just the shaft with a Metabo. The splines appear to be impacted, is it possible the splines in the differential are fu$ked ? If so, will we need to replace the diff as well ?

Next step will be to draw up a parts list for the internal parts and get the Passenger side shaft out, then cut apart the driver side and attempt to remove.

Tips, tricks, advice are always appreciated - many thanks to Adam "POSPolaris" for timely and accurate information. I owe ya a beer if ya ever make it to South GA.

Merry Christmas / Happy Holidays

JBird
 

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Glad to hear you got ahold of American CV. good folks there. From what I understand, the splines in the rear diff can be replaced, but it's part of a couple diff gears. they're pretty pricey. you might want to get it apart, take the gears out(two seperate halfs from what I understand, and maybe you can press the stub shafts out from the backside? I really am not certian if they can be saved.

for $1100, you could rebearing the used trans for less than $100, and be back on the road. you might be able to fix yours for less, but you might have to wait and see.


As far as the best place to order new parts at a discount, I've had good luck with Lakeside Marine and Cycle, I believe they's a PRC sponsor here, as well as Fix My Toys, which I think is out of GA somewhere. both good outfits that I believe give discounts to PRC members.

I had to use a bit of a trick to get the tensioner back in the case when re-assembling, not sure if it shows anything on that youtube video, I never watched it that fare in. when you get to that point I'll be glad to guide you through it. Also, I used permatex Ultra Grey silicone on the case, I like it better than all the rest, it's a bit more rigid and seems to hold in place better. but you might be able to get by with about anything.

The seals on the trans are available through polaris only. I would change the seal on the input shaft that the secondary rides on as well as the one that the park brake rotor rides on.

Best of luck removing/replacing the rear axles, what a stinker.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ladies and Gentlemen : You have not had fun until you have tried to find replacement parts for your gearbox on the Internet lol. I am still searching and learning a lot. POSPolaris, could you dial me in a little more on replacement seals and bearings ? The parts store needs the dimensions for the seals and bearings. Ive studied on the tech manual and exploded diagrams, but would appreciate input from someone who has been down the path...

We have Oreilly, NAPA, Advance, and Autozone here in the armpit of SE Georgia, listed in order of preference.

I guess my specific questions are:

Can you tell me or direct me to a resource that can provide the amount of bearings and seals and their dimensions ?

I would definitely buy the ones you suggested (Nachi), could you direct me to where to purchase ? Is there 6 bearings in total ?

It seems some of the seals are "triple-lip" seals, would a parts store generic seal be a quality replacement ?

I try to be thorough on my projects, sorry if any of my questions are redundant, I really value yall's opinion...

Hope everyone had a good Christmas and thanks in advance

JBird
 
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