[bamaguy]

I could use some help/advice on removal of the driveshaft on 2011 Ranger XP. We are trying to replace the universal joints. We have the shaft loose at both ends but there doesn't seem to be enough room to "snake" the shaft out of the unit itself. Basically looks like one crossmember is the problem. Is there a way to remove the shaft without disassembling anything else. Has anyone had success in getting one out without any more disassembly? Any advice/help would be great.

 

[POS POLARIS]

Tim-

I've always replaced my U joints when I've had a transmission fail, so I was able to pull it out the back. However, I think you can pull it out the front if you take out the passenger cv joint, or you may have to unbolt the front diff and slide it over a bit as well. It sucks, they're not easy like the old rangers. Sorry bud.

 

[commanderjjones]

Adam is correct. Unbolt the front diff and slide it forward.

 

[bamaguy]

Thanks POS. I was afraid of that. Just trying to help a friend out. We wrestled with it for about an hour or so trying to snake it out. I had to walk away before my temper/aggravation took over from being so close but yet so far. Didn't want to bend the shaft. It seems to only another 1/4-1/2" to clear.

 

[POS POLARIS]

Yep, it's very close. I was going to remove mine and fix the U joints when I ran into the same problem you did. Frustrated I hooked it back up because I didn't have the time to spare to take apart the front end. Then the transmission went and I pulled it out the back anyway.

But, I kinda thought it looked like if the RH front cv was popped out, I thought the prop shaft just might be able to snake out without having to unbolt the diff.

Sometimes its better in the long run to admit early that you have to take a couple extra things off to do a job instead of pushing a bad situation that may not pay off anyway. I'm a big fan of making things easy as I can, but sometimes you just have to dig in further than you'd like.

Good luck with it Tim

 

[bamaguy]

Thanks for the information Adam and Jerry. Very helpful. I agree Adam, this is one of those situations where a little more time and effort will be worth it.

 

[rowe doo]

If you try and push to hard you can damage the seal in the front dif.

 

[Beanfarmer]

Cut the crossmember. Weld it back

 

[commanderjjones]

Cut the crossmember. Weld it back

The crossmember isn't really the problem. You have to slide the driveshaft fore and aft to get it off the splines.

 

[FloridaAl]

We just replaced the u joints on a 2011 800 XP Browning. It was miserable. How we did it. Remove the center floorboard. Use an air hammer with a punch type end to push out the front drive pin. Slide the shaft all the way rearward and it will come off the spline. Move the front of the shaft to the left a few inches. Push the shaft forward and it will just clear the rear spline. Position the shaft in a "notch" in the metal just forward of the firewall floorboard. Pull the shaft to the rear. Once you've reach as far as it will go, put a pry bar on the shaft and force the shaft down and rearward. The front of the shaft will pop-up in the middle of the floorboard. Replace the u joints. Replace the shaft as far as you can, placing the forward portion in the notch behind the firewall. I then stood on the front of the shaft while my buddy pushed if forward. There is a YouTube video of someone replacing the joints this way.
If I have to do it again, I'll cut the frame crosspiece and bolt with a flitch plate when I put the crossmember back.
Got the U joints from NAPA for $15 a piece. NAPA doesn't have them in their house brand, (they show as obsolete) but they can cross-reference and our local store had two in stock.

 

[alaskanparret]

Well geez make it hard on yourself why don't ya!

For me, if I'm going that extensive I will uninstall the front differential. Done it enough times now that I can do that in under an hour easy. Pull that out and shaft comes right out.

Tip...I am using grade 8 1/4 bolts I believe in place of roll pins. This way, should I need too, I can remove the driveshaft in the field. Also makes it a lot less of a pain to take apart.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[BearBIA]

This doesn’t help u now but i am going to try to modify my front prop shaft while I have it out.

Had Polaris put the pin that holds the yoke to the differential on the other end at the transmission.This all could have been avoided.
In other words. Drive out the pin from the very accessible transmission under the bed. You’d be able to remove the shaft to the rear. Then guide it back onto the front differential through the floor access panel.
Am I right? Haven’t tried it yet but that’s how it looks.
Good luck I’m right there with you. I have to replace mine too. I’m also going to replace the bearing on the rear prop shaft too.