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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,

First time post for me.

I've got a 2011 Ranger 500 4X4 EFI. It was a hand me down from my father, who wasn't a maintenance type of guy, so I'm trying to give it some TLC. I have some error codes I'm trying to resolve. I think I may be on the right path, but could use some tips. Machine runs fairly well aside from a rough idle. TB has been cleaned and valves have been set.

I have a code 22 for the TPS. I think this is my fault. A few days ago I loosened the TPS thinking it was the IAC. Once I realized my error I was able to see markings in the plastic from the washers and just tried to put it as close to it's original position as possible. Seemed to work and at that point I had no code. Yesterday I decided to do the "right" thing and meter it. I back probed the orange wire and have 5v signal. I back probed and metered across the green wire to the battery ground, and set the TPS to 1.12v, as per the manual. This is when the code appeared. After some more research I think perhaps I should have been measuring the voltage across the green and purple wire to set the TPS properly. Anyone have any insight on this? I know these machines are notorious for wiring issues but mine have all been cable tied to prevent vibration. The connectors have been removed from their sensors and the wires moved around quite a bit lately, but the first sign of the TPS code was after I adjusted it, so I'm inclined to think I made an error.

My other code is a 51 for the injector. Would a good first step in diagnoses be to check the fuel pressure? I've read this is a common issue. I believe the pump was replaced by my father with an aftermarket unit for a Hyundai, but not sure about the regulator and such, and I don't think he actually ever checked the pressure before or after.

If I remove the Pos battery cable for a bit both codes appear again immediately, before the engine has been started again.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Quick update

Code 22: Reading is the same when measuring across the green and purple wire, while back probing the connector. Upon closer inspection I see that someone had actually put a reference mark on the TPS and throttle body and I'm pretty well lined up. So everything should be adjusted properly. It looks like I may in fact have a faulty wire:sorrow:. I'm wondering if I may have damaged something during back probing, or maybe all that wire movement was the straw that broke the camels back. I guess the next step is to resistance check the wires from the TPS end to end to see which one has a break. In the meantime I'll try to source a repair harness that wont take weeks to get to me.

Code 51: I took advantage of the loan a tool program to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge. Will test soon. I have read this code can be related to the TPS as well though, so that's where I'm going to focus mainly.
 

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I think I have things sorted out. The biggest problem is that I wasn't paying enough attention to what was happening when.

My codes are STORED codes. Removing the battery doesn't seem to remove them. However I have NO check engine light with the key on or during operation which should mean I have no current codes. I only noticed these codes by cycling the key 3 times. All my wires test in spec, fuel injector and TPS sensor test in spec. I chased my tail for quite a while but I'm glad I followed the process before cutting wires or replacing parts.

Never did test the fuel pressure as the loan a tool was broken.

My erratic idle is actually being caused my the throttle cable. During my test run yesterday the machine was idling very high, I pulled the seat, jiggled the cable and it went right back to where it should be. The cable has visible damage and I already had one coming.

Other than that the machine runs well. So hopefully the throttle cable will fix up the idle, and my other imaginary problems will stay imaginary.
 

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car, if you have " stored codes" those are REAL CODES. 22.............TPS either out of range set up or most likely a bad wire. You cannot ohm out Polaris sensor wire and then deem them "WITHIN SPEC". The skimpy 28 gauge wire will break inside the insulation but still give you a good OHM. The 51 is most likely low fuel pressure but occasionally the injector harness will cause the code. Double check the epoxy connection to the injector. DO THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST..rule it out.

The only way to truly test Polaris Skimpy wire is to single out each wire ..........grab both ends and CAREFULLY pull and CLOSELY watch for the insulation to stretch . When you see that stretch, you know the wire inside the insulation is 'compromised' in that segment. No shortcuts to Polaris riding Nirvana.

nirvana

/nɪəˈvɑːnə/

noun
noun: nirvana

(in Buddhism) a transcendent state in which there is no suffering.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I understand they are real codes. But if the problem is currently present, key on or engine running, the check engine light should be on shouldn't it?? I have not once since I owned the bike seen the check engine light on. I have been doing maintenance to the machine and decided to look for stored codes to be thorough, that is how I found them. (Seems I should have left well enough alone)

I have yanked, pulled, poked, jiggled and probed each wire at least a half dozen times. The Polaris service manual procedure for diagnosing electrical problems has a pretty clear flow that does list a resistance specification for wires from sensors to ECM. I pulled the harness from the ECM tested resistance from the ecu pin to the connector pin end of each wire while tugging, pulling and jiggling the wire. The reading did not change. I did this at least 3 times for each wire. I would expect to notice something of concern if a wire was damaged.

The stored TPS code makes perfect sense. AT one point I pulled the connector from the TPS and turned the ignition on to check the 5v signal, and the code showed up immediately after. The fuel injector code could be from before the pump was changed. Will need to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check on that.

At this point other than stored codes that are retrieved by cycling the key there is nothing suggesting a problem. No check engine light and machine runs well aside from the throttle cable mentioned. Maybe I'm way off base but I can't justify cutting harnesses and such until I see more evidence that something is currently wrong.
 

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No , you will not have an ongoing CE light. Sorry I bothered you. Good luck with your 'fix'.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No bother. I'm not trying to be ignorant, I have just tried the things you suggested including the "wire pull" as well as all the factory tests and didn't find anything I was supposed to.

Update:

Have her purring like a kitten now!

Waited a few weeks for the throttle cable to come. Replaced it with very careful routing (because that does matter with this style cable) and also replaced the incorrect spark plug in the machine with the proper one. Sticky/erratic idle is gone and machine idles well.

Did a little testing to learn more about the stored codes. Pulled the T-BAP sensor wires off. Turned ignition on and had a check engine light. Turned ignition off, replaced wires, turned ignition on, and no engine light. So essentially I created a fault in the system and repaired it. Removed battery for a spell and checked for stored codes. I now have a stored code for the injector and tps (which were always there) and now a new one for the T-BAP. So my ECU is definitely keeping a record of past faults even after the fault is gone and having the battery removed.
 
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