Mat, could be a simple as air in the cooling system or a bad radiator cap.

 

Thanks JM,
I think the coolant could be several years old. I'm the 3rd owner. I know the first owner squeezed an engine replacement out of a small shop in town, blaming him for putting in the wrong type of oil. I think that was about the 4500 mile mark, when the engine was replaced. An I might assume that was the last time the coolant was changed. Which could be as long as 5 to 6 years ago. So I am planning to change coolant regardless. Just asking if there are any small parts in the chain that I should replace to save headaches in the near future.

Can you get air in the system through a bad cap when it's overly hot? Other than a cylinder leak , where else can air enter the system?
Thanks for the leads man! I have been pretty psyched the amount of repair and maintenance I've done with all your helping. It's been fun as well once you get past the anxiety of it all.

 

Mat, a bad cap can lower the boiling point of the coolant up to thirty degrees. Overheating on a Ranger is almost never the thermostat. You can check the stat by dropping it in a pan of boiling water. If it opens........it is good. Really have to get them melt down hot to take out the impellar. Squeeze the coolant hoses (with gloves on) as you are bleeding the system. Keep the radiator topped off and let it cycle 2-3 times with the front end up as high as you can get it.

 

Make sure when it’s actually overheating that the fan is staying on, so many times the circuit breakers on those machines get weak after the initial few fans cycles and the fan would stop working or work intermittently. other than that like jungle man said air in the cooling system can be very frustrating problem, get the front end up on ramps or even higher. If you can try to bleed the cooling system out make sure it is air free..

replacing the coolant won’t help the issue. also since it is in a farm work environment, especially around grass there’s a good chance The radiator is plugged up with chaff. use a long right angle air wand to blow out from both front and back.

 

This is what I did. Certainly unorthodox and Polaris wouldn't approve.
I started with a radiator cap that was rated for twice the pressure.
Next, I put a aluminum impeller in the water pump.
Finally, I modified the thermostat so that it essentially became a flow restrictor instead of opening and closing based on temperature.
My fan still operates at 194 and 205 and I have been much happier and noticed a cooler seat while driving.
Good luck with whatever you do!

I almost forgot. I changed the fan circuit breaker for a fuse. Now the fan doesn't fade in and out while the auto-breaker resets itself.

 

Hi guys thanks.
POS, I think I remember, as I struggled to get thru the last mow, that the when it spiked the 230 range , the fan may have shut off. I'll try to see where and what the fan circuit breaker is. Thanks.

I do blow out the radiator fins but..... only the front I'll do better this time.

JM, can a cap be intermittently bad? Like open and close, but close again?

Who does the impellor where out when only pushing water?

I thought all coolants lose there ability to cool effectively over time. As I say this I don't think I have change the coolant in my 07 Tacoma since I bought it in 07. lol. The manual says every two years for the Polaris, but could be a service incentive.

Bruce, I see a number of guys doing similar mods. Obviously this is a very common issue. I'll try a similar route if it doesn't come together.

In the back of my head I keep thinking the new clutch may be adding to the problem. The R series Duraclutch. I don't think I am getting the same output for the RPM. With no load I need 1750~1800 to start moving on flat ground. And at 3500 I think I was only 8mph. Towing the mower, often only going 3~4mph and usually about 3k~3500rpm.
I only had one mow on the OEM clutch. It was already shifting hard when I received the mower. To the point of shutting off to shift gears. But it didn't over heat. The over heating started with the new clutch. Probably entirely separate but simultaneous events. The first mow though was much harder work. 4 to 6 foot grass and brush. Now its just maintenance.
The OEM clutch after I removed it definitely has too much side to side play. Buttons worn out. Can not believe how much the buttons cost. The complete rebuild kits were about as much as a "quality" after market clutch kit. Dura clutch seems to still be in the dialing in phase on this r series. The owner had said it would do well with the mower weight. But there is something with the spring tension that they seem to be floating on. I was told to remove a shim to see if I would get engagement at a lower rpm. It shaved 100rpmm off the 1900 to get it to move but they say it is designed to engage at 1400. Im still 1750~1800. They said they have a another spring to swap out and try, but haven't returned correspondence to actually get me one.....

I really appreciate all you guys talking story with me about this kine stuff. I'm not a habitual gear head and it all comes to me slow. But have had good fun so far working thru the minor repairs and such with all ur help. Thanks again.

Correy

 

That is a'no' on the intermitent cap overheating and coolant does break down . Every two years is a bit much but I would flush and change every four along with the brake fluid. The CB in the fan harness is a well known problem for years. Intermittent on/off.... The big lump normally wrapped in black tape in the fan harness. I am on my third one.Looks like this:

 

Thanks JM. I think I meant to ask if a Thermostat will be intermittently bad.
I will find the CB as suggested. Many thanks.

 

mat, I have never seen a thermostat go bad on a Ranger. It is always the cap, the CB or most often air in the system.

 

how does air get into the cooling system? Thru a bad cap? as it cools draws in air? thanks for the responses!

 

yes, unchecked coolant levels. Bad cap, level not maintained in recovery bottle etc... Some Rangers, I have noticed, 'use' a small amount of coolant over time which the accumulated loss in the recovery bottle lowers the level to where air can enter.

 

"I start getting the episodes where the fan just shuts off, then I see the temp spike 220's~230's. "

Mat, change the circuit breaker....

 

Howzit JM, I did replace the circuit breaker as you recommended. I replaced it with a 20A as that seemed like it was the OEM.

It was located right next to the fuse box.

It looked just like the one you pictured in the previous reply.

I did notice that the older one seemed to have smaller diameter studs, maybe metric?

The new one from Oreilys , looked like 5/32 size.

The connectors that were in place were like small L shaped booted connectors like plug wires but smaller. The old breaker simply pulled out, So I just poked in the new one. I did zip tie it to keep it tight.

It seems like it helped.

But after about 45 minutes to an hour of towing a 750lb mower in ungraded fields with bumps and some slopes it gets pretty hot.

And it did over heat again.

I did notice that when it was getting to this point, when the fan comes on at about 205, I did see the DC Volts were around 12.5. During the first cycles it was 13.3 which should be what it is?

Could it be that the single battery eventually draws down when I have repetitive cycles on the fan? As soon as it hits 194 it goes right back up to 204 again pretty quick when its hot.

It functions fine for about an hour, then you see temp creep. fan comes on at 204 but temp rises to 206 before seeing decline in temp. Then after a several cycles, it will creep to 208 before going down, then 210. At this point I now know this is where I need to shut it off for a bit. The next cycle would be 2012 then the fan will kick off when trying to fight down the the temp.

Replace breaker with 30A? Will it kill the fan?

Could the fan already be needing to be replaced?

Could my battery be too small or need to add another battery to help the fan? I did notice when using a power sprayer it taxed the battery pretty fast. I could hear the sprayer pump slow down.

Dunno, I feel that maybe the battery gets run low, has trouble keeping up, voltage drops just enough to spike amp draw and trips breaker.

If I shut the machine off for 10 minutes, it will do ok for another 10 minutes. If I stop for 30 to 60 minutes, the engine cools to 160 and everything ok for another hour of mowing, then the trouble starts over again as I described.

Im feeling like its the battery or fan, but don't want to needlessly replace anything.....

Any further advice? All much appreciated thus far.

 

Mat, refresh my memory.........did you flush the cooling system and then refill with new coolant and thoroughly BLEED the air out of the closed cooling system ? Make sure the coolant recovery bottle is half full ? Test/install a new radiator cap ?

 

hi JM,
yup, cap,breaker,bled,

have not changed coolant. it looks pretty darkish green in the OF which is filled to level.
blew out radiator well. Changed the fuel pump, ignition was bad as well. Air filter, plugs.
bought a thermostat but didn't install it, seems its more of a fan issue or maybe temp sensor ?

 

Matt. if you are sure you have bled (to death) the cooling system .........did the hose squeeze and all (because 99% of the time with it still overheating it is is because the 800 wasnt bled thoroughly) and it is still overheating, then you better start looking for a head gasket problem with this : Amazon.com: Block Tester BT-500 Head Gasket Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA : Industrial & Scientific

"Im feeling like its the battery or fan, but don't want to needlessly replace anything..... "

Then take the battery out and charge it fully and run it into a BIG box auto supply store for a load test.

"I will pressure check the fuel pump as well. "

Never did the pressure check and "GET BACK WITH US"

Could easily be overheating from a lean condition from low fuel pressure. Pre 2013 800's are FAMOUS for that. Fuel pressure should be checked FIRST THING on a 800 when any problem crops up with stalling etc..

I have to tell you Matt that towing anything with a 800 is not going to end up well. Those engines get HOT just tooling along . So many vapor lock and stalling/overheating 800's in 2010-2012 that POCO did a reflash of the ECU and started putting 58 psi fuel pressure to them in 2013 to overcome some of these problems. If you are going to be 'farming' with a Ranger, I wouldnt go any lower than a 900 cc.

"

 

pressure checked the old pump at 44 after realized my pump/start trouble was bad ignition ( again).

But replaced pump because it was rusted and corroded and prefilter was clogged up and falling apart.

Did not test new pump because it took so long to get it that I had to return the test kit after 30 days.

Starts great first crank over, New All Balls pump is really quiet, You have to listen for it when it primes.

When I first bought the mower I could mow for 5 hours in 5 foot grass and brush without the fan shutting off or any indication of over heating.

The OEM clutch had about 6k on it and was getting hard shift, replaced with Duraclutch R series.

This is when the first over heat happened So I had thought it might be the new clutch that seemed to be generating too many rpm for the mph.

The dealer said it looked like it was operating within their spec.

during all this I replaced the rear motor mounts ( replaced the front same time as the clutch) but found that the center to center was quite a bit short, so shimmed the rear mounts and got it to 10.08" about.

That seemed to help with the clutch engagement a bit and lower the rpm a smidge.

But still the fan eventually shuts off while in use, or sometimes doesn't come on after about 45 to 60 minutes.

The time I caught it shutting off, it came on at 206, the temp continued to climb to 212 and the fan shut off.

I started to watch the Voltage on the display along with the temp more closely. When it gets to its first fan cycles during initial heat up, the voltage on the display reads 13.3. Then after 45 minutes, Im seeing the voltage reading 12.3~12.5.

I am unsure what the minimum voltage the fan needs to run or at what low voltage it will trip the breaker. I did see some guys swapped the breaker for one higher than the OEM 20A. I've seen 25 and 30A used in other peoples posts and videos and all claimed that fixed the issue. To me, that's what you did just before you burn up the fan. So I have been hesitant to go to the next higher size breaker but bought a 30A as well. Only 2 breakers on Hawaii island, LOL I drove 40 miles RT to pick them up.


"I have to tell you Matt that towing anything with a 800 is not going to end up well. Those engines get HOT just tooling along . So many vapor lock and stalling/overheating 800's in 2010-2012 that POCO did a reflash of the ECU and started putting 58 psi fuel pressure to them in 2013 to overcome some of these problems. If you are going to be 'farming' with a Ranger, I wouldnt go any lower than a 900 cc."

Yes, I did consider this quite a bit before buying the mower. Actually Pyro gave a glowing review of the 800 and said to go for it, you can't kill them. When I was shopping for a clutch, Hunters said my machine wouldn't be up to the task. But honestly, it really kicked ass with the OEM clutch mowing 4 acres of 5' grass and brush. Pretty fun making trails with it, as long as you know you can drive thru.....getting stuck or having to reverse with the mower.... not so fun.

Here's a link to a vid of the mower.....Chapman mower
I bought the 5' cut , it was 50lbs heavier and$100 more than the 4'.
Usually i see guys with 500~800cc machines pulling these on social media and you tube. Maybe the UK vids show diesel utvs?
Not really regretting the mower purchase, it does pretty good.
I operate it with the wheels oriented on the end for less tongue weight but the video above shows it with them inside the cut on the rear. With tires on the ends the tongue weight is nothing , exceptionally well balanced trailer mower.

WHY DIDN"T I SPEND ALL THIS DOUGH ON A TRACTOR?????? My area is not dirt but like a mix of volcanic ash and organic matter, its like pudding when its wet. With a tractor you can only mow during really dry spells. The UTV mower combo is an all season machine, multi functional.

 

"Did not test new pump because it took so long to get it "

...............Matt, I have never installed a Ranger fuel pump that was not clearly audible when the seat was in place. Did you remove the tank ?

amazon has plenty of them testers. Best 30 dollars you can spend on a 800 Ranger. Amazon.com: BETOOLL Fuel Pressure Test Kit 0-100PSI with 9.49,7.89,6.30 Fuel Line Fittings : Automotive

 

k. I will invest in the tester as recommended.
Yeah, the old pump was very audible. The new one is quieter. You can hear it, but obvious change sound level. No.... I did not remove the tank...... Honestly, with new pump, air filter, plugs, pre air filter, its running really well. Sounds pretty smooth. a couple percent better than before.

 

"No.... I did not remove the tank "

Matt , I have seen a gooey tank take out a new fuel assembly in a couple short trips.... these Rangers will EAT YOUR LUNCH if you try sidestepping. Could be 14 years of goo in there. Just Fyi, drain the gas and DON'T reuse it. Takes about 30 minutes for a new guy to remove the tank............then stick a high pressure nozzle in and blast it out and then turn upside down overnight,

 

, drain the gas and DON'T reuse it.

Lol, brah,$5.80/G here. Strain it thru coffee filter if have 2. Lol

 

yes, I understand. I was in a pinch so had to run without removing and cleaning tank. Still though, the fan issue hasn't really changed from before pump replacement.
I will bring the battery to my shop and charge it, its only 9 months old.... it was just an oriellys super start brand so... they do go bad early sometimes, Ive had a couple that did.

So, the connectors for the fan breaker, what is the typical oem type? mine looked like mini plug wire 90 degree connectors. I just thought it was odd that the breaker had threaded studs and you know things that poke into booted connectors are typically smooth and shaped to a friction type fit connector right?
I used some dielectric grease, should have cleaned out the connectors too, but didn't have anything at the property to do that with. My "shop" is a commercial wood shop and home is basically a minimalist off grid set up currently, so I bring the utv here to the shop to work on it, Just makes it take a little longer....

 

So, the connectors for the fan breaker, what is the typical oem type? mine looked like mini plug wire 90 degree connectors.

Those are the OEM connectors. One thing to note is the breaker has a copper colored post and a silver colored post. The copper one should be on the battery (hot) wire and the silver leads to the fan. If you look closely at the breaker it says "BAT" next to the copper post.

 

Island prices. Same price here which is NO REASON to reuse contaminated fuel. A friend of mine made the same stupid mistake and drained the tank, CLEANED IT and installed a complete new fuel assembly, reused the contaminated fuel and destroyed it in a matter of a few miles. High humidity regions exacerbate the GOO problem. I saw the NEW fuel assembly after it was removed after a few miles. Looked like it was ten years old.

 

did you say once you have a shop? Do you sell any of that all in one diff/tran fluid?

 

Hi guys, still slowly working thru the over heating issue.
I definitely did not bleed the cooling system properly the first time.
Unsure if I did it right the second time.

Since the system was already "full" I did not open bleed screw.
Previously I did not run while fan was on.

Ok. So, I parked on a steep banking.
Removed cap.
tank and over flow were at correct levels.
Ran engine.
Wife watched for bubbles as I squeezed hose.
She said she saw a bubble, but who knows.
There was some fluid that overflowed each time I squeezed hose.
Fan finally kicked in a 204.
As I watched the fluid circulating at tank opening, I saw some "small bubbles" more like foam. Not excessive but around the edges of the tank opening floating on top.
I squeezed the hose a few more times
the coolant had expanded with the heat and was slowly rising and running out.
I let the fan run out at 194 and shut down motor.
The coolant was about 2" from the top of the radiator, overflow had not changed.
Next morning I went to top off.
Radiator was full to top, overfill was down about 2oz or less.

Start over from beginning and use bleed screw?

The only reason I didn't was because it was already full and "blead", to my knowledge.
Though I still think my fan shutting off is battery related, old fan related or ....
When I run the motor instrument cluster sez 13.3v+. I noticed when I shut the motor off the voltage said 11.6v.
When I am mowing, the V reads 13.3v+/- but when I see the temps starting to get higher and higher I see the V reading less than 12V. This is after many long fan cycles. I'm feeling like either the fan is old and maybe getting amp pike that trips breaker. Or battery is not large enough for many extended fan cycles and draws down faster than Alternator can replenish and eventually causes amp increase then trips breaker.

Charging battery now then see if O'Reilly can check see if bad.

All thoughts are welcome, many thanks.
Correy




Squeezed
ran motor until fan circuated.

 

Aye Carumba......you need to re-read the bleeding instructions.. YOU LET THE RADIATOR SWALLOW MORE AIR BY NOT KEEPING IT TOPPED OFF......... Have wife write the instructions on a base ball bat and strike when necessary.....

 

come on the Clymers didn't say any thing about topping off during bleeding. Only after engine had cooled. I dont have with me but Im pretty sure, it said bleed out bubbles, and put cap back on while engine still running, then after it cools refill radiator and over flow.

OK, I will begin from beginning again. LOL. My wife will love that.

 

"come on the Clymers didn't say any thing about topping off during bleeding. "

I am just guessing here, but I have probably bled a few more RANGER cooling systems than the editor at CLYMERS. If you want to keep fighting 800 cooling ailments, ignore the probably 200 times (at least) that I have posted proper Ranger cooling system bleeding procedure. The PRC archive is FULL OF THEM...

 

LOL, yeah.... FWIW, my wife said there was no way we put any air in the system, but agrees I need to be hit in the head more often.

I bled it again. the 2nd time I have ever bled a cooling system.
Cleaned bleed screw, was clogged.
Kept coolant full during fan cycles.
I opened the bleed screw a few times, only coolant came out, didn't see ant bubbles or just air coming from it.
While squeezing hose, several small bubbles came out my helper said.
When I pushed the gas pedal a few times she said she saw some bubbles.
I did not squeeze bottom hose off motor......
UTV was raised on a banking, pretty steep.
I'm still going to do it another time to be sure.

Ok, as I near the end of an epic coolant bleeding session, I still feel the fan shutting off is separate issue. I did charge the battery and took it in to get tested, Oriellys said all Good. Its a 400CCA. The largest they had.
I observed in the last mowing session, that prior to the fan quitting, the instrument cluster DCV meter showed 11.7V when the fan was running.
Orielly guy said if I see the V drop at all it was probably the strator... So looking into that I guess, in the Clymers lol.
Low voltage can cause the breaker to trip like with AC power?

Thanks for all the advice!

 

Fwiw, I did the raise the front end while running with radiator cap method. I just pulled up a bank. It worked for me.

I don't know when/why it got air in it, but it did. I never noticed any leaks.