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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I am gonna pull an 800 out today if you want me to send a video of what I am talking about.

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Sure, any info will help.

I'm pretty certain the noise is from the crank. When I rotate it and watch the valves, they all look to move about the same range. I would expect to see a visual difference with this much noise, but kinda guessing
 

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Hey guys

I've been in denial about the noise my engine has been making on my 2012 Ranger 800XP. I know most people say these engines are noisy but I'm convinced I have cam lobe wear. What's the best way to confirm this? Rotate engine and feel rocker/pushrod play?

Does the engine have to be removed to replace just the cam?

Thanks
I have a 22 xp1000 ns ultimate. It's loud.
 

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2011 Ranger 800 6xCentipede
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The 800's have a history of the oil pressure relief sticking in both the high and low extremes and wiping rods. There a several threads here on alternate inserts and Utoob vids on how to free it. Mine stuck on high and would build over 100 psi cold. Was a chore to free, but managed following Dr G. Got some clatter, but nothing a Dodge 225 slant six couldn't survive! Seen them run with a rod through the block in our annual field car races!
I will tear into it someday...
Interesting note regarding the cam & sensor compatability, I've had a sensor code since bringing mine home, but will post to a different thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·

Yah on this one the one rocker didn't move nearly as far as the other three.

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Thanks for the detailed video. Are you replacing just the lifters and cam? Or will this need crank, cylinders and pistons as well?

I'll be tearing it apart and reporting back.



My oil pressure relief valve wasn't stuck, I think it may have been just lack of maintenance earlier on.
 

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Thanks for the detailed video. Are you replacing just the lifters and cam? Or will this need crank, cylinders and pistons as well?

I'll be tearing it apart and reporting back.



My oil pressure relief valve wasn't stuck, I think it may have been just lack of maintenance earlier on.
I am just doing cam and lifters on this one. Crank is solid on it still.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Haven't forgotten about this, I've just been ignoring the Ranger.

The lifters come out of their pockets without resistance. Im gonna take off the head and check rod bearings next. I'm just trying to avoid 0ulling the whole motor in the cramped cage
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Can't feel any noticeable play in the rods, except when I rotate the crank but it isn't coming from the rods. When I really lock the rods in place, I don't feel the play from the rod/crank interface. See video below. It seems the play is between the timing gears. The free play doesn't make the camshaft move at all. Is this just normal timing gears lash?

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Anyone know if there should be any lash in the timing gears and if it's adjustable? Is the gear with the springs supposed to take up the lash? Waiting on my flywheel puller tool before I can get to the gears to see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well it looks like my OCD lead me to a waste of time. It's just backlash between the timing gears.

Does anyone know if this is normal or worn? Just want to know if I should replace it before putting it all back together.

 

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2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
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Well it looks like my OCD lead me to a waste of time. It's just backlash between the timing gears.

Does anyone know if this is normal or worn? Just want to know if I should replace it before putting it all back together.

All gears have backlash. Usually if they are too tight they will whine. Too loose may cause some chatter at idle, but not much.

As a point of information, Harley Evo motors use different size cam gears which are matched to the drive gear. They are measured by using pins of the proper diameter between the gear teeth directly across from each other and measuring with a micrometer to get pitch diameter. I doubt Polaris does this or offers cam drive gears in various sizes.

A quick and dirty, and none too accurate, check for proper clearance between spur gears is to see if a sheet of ordinary notebook paper fits snugly between the teeth where they engage. If not they are too tight if it falls between the teeth the gears may be noisy.

If the gears are too loose they either came that way (poor factory tolerances or quality control) or are worn. Severe wear should be fairly easy to spot by inspection.

Does the rattling noise vary with engine temperature? Is there more when cold than when hot? IF so you may be experiencing piston slap. Even if temperature doesn't affect the noise it can still be piston slap, especially if the pistons were installed backwards on the connecting rod small end. In some engines the piston pin is slightly offset to prevent piston slap but someone unfamiliar with assembling an engine designed that way could inadvertently install the pistons backwards (providing valve pockets, or lack of, would allow) and not realize the error until the noise shows up. Once again, i don't know if that is a design feature of your Polaris engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
The rattling noise doesn't really vary with temperature. It might be very slightly quieter while cold, which in my head might be from thicker oil cushioning the gear noise. The pistons and cylinder walls have very slight vertical scoring, but cannot be felt, I couldn't get them to make any noises.

I always felt the noise was coming from the passenger side of the engine, which is where the timing gears are. The crankshaft gear appears to be press fit, and looks like it comes with the crankshaft.

One thing of note, the other gears don't have any play, but there's a split sprung gear that probably takes up any slack.

I may just close it all back up and do a rebuild if anything gets worse, at least now I know the rods aren't going to punch a hole in the block.


All gears have backlash. Usually if they are too tight they will whine. Too loose may cause some chatter at idle, but not much.

As a point of information, Harley Evo motors use different size cam gears which are matched to the drive gear. They are measured by using pins of the proper diameter between the gear teeth directly across from each other and measuring with a micrometer to get pitch diameter. I doubt Polaris does this or offers cam drive gears in various sizes.

A quick and dirty, and none too accurate, check for proper clearance between spur gears is to see if a sheet of ordinary notebook paper fits snugly between the teeth where they engage. If not they are too tight if it falls between the teeth the gears may be noisy.

If the gears are too loose they either came that way (poor factory tolerances or quality control) or are worn. Severe wear should be fairly easy to spot by inspection.

Does the rattling noise vary with engine temperature? Is there more when cold than when hot? IF so you may be experiencing piston slap. Even if temperature doesn't affect the noise it can still be piston slap, especially if the pistons were installed backwards on the connecting rod small end. In some engines the piston pin is slightly offset to prevent piston slap but someone unfamiliar with assembling an engine designed that way could inadvertently install the pistons backwards (providing valve pockets, or lack of, would allow) and not realize the error until the noise shows up. Once again, i don't know if that is a design feature of your Polaris engine.
 

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What do you guys think. Before and after videos of top end replacement. They sound a bit different but not sure if either are normal.


I would check your primary clutch.. It sounds more like clutch noise to me..
You might just have worn clutch rollers..
 
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