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Hey there,

I have been having a lot of trouble with my 12 Polaris Ranger XP 800 HD overheating...I had replaced the thermostat, the temp sensor, flushed the radiator, I even swapped out the fan switch...after all this, now it gets hot and purges the coolant. I have refilled it and burped the air out, but if I use the machine over an hour, it goes up to 204, cools down with the fan, etc...then goes back up to 208, then back down and will progressively get hotter each cycle till it get to 236 and too hot. Change the water pump? Head gasket? Thanks for your time!!

Dan
 

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DRAKE, it sounds like you are not getting all the air out when you purge. Clean the radiatior front and back and then jack the front end up as high as you can and start it up , filling, cycling, filling ......get some gloves on and SQUEEZE THOSE RADIATOR HOSES to get the dead air spots out of them... Let it cycle several times.......use a good coolant ..

If you have been SMOKE'N HOT , you may have a head gasket leak which would show up in a second with a leak down test .. I am thinking you have not been that hot ........

Here is a HOT tip.......check the fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure will make the engine run HOT..
 
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And check or change that radiator cap. A 13 psi cap that is NOT sealing will make a 39 degree difference in the boiling point . Often overlooked..
 
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thank you so much for your help!!! I am grateful...I will give those a shot and let you know. Thx!
I had a problem very similar if not the same. My fan relay had gone bad. The fan should turn on at 204 and stay on until reaching 196 or maybe 199, I can’t remember which. Once the relay was replaced the cooling cycle has been normal.

I had also replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, purged the system, and replaced a battery interrupt for the fan. None had made a difference. Then I noticed the relay block under the hood and replaced the fan relay. It’s running fine now.
 

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Hey there,

I have been having a lot of trouble with my 12 Polaris Ranger XP 800 HD overheating...I had replaced the thermostat, the temp sensor, flushed the radiator, I even swapped out the fan switch...after all this, now it gets hot and purges the coolant. I have refilled it and burped the air out, but if I use the machine over an hour, it goes up to 204, cools down with the fan, etc...then goes back up to 208, then back down and will progressively get hotter each cycle till it get to 236 and too hot. Change the water pump? Head gasket? Thanks for your time!!

Dan
I could give you a list of possibilities as long as your arm, as I went through the same problem with my 2011 Ranger XP 800. There are so many variables that can cause it to overheat, and most of them are related to Polaris's lousy engineering and minimal cooling system.

After changing the impeller and thermostat mine still overheated when I had extra load on the engine or the temperature was above 90 going uphill. I finally learned I could unhook the temperature sensor wire and force the fan to run constantly which did get me home and kept it much cooler, but the problem is when you do that your temperature gauge doesn't work so you have to check it manually by feel on the radiator.

My problems really started with the tracks on a warm spring day, then I put on 28X14X10RX ITP Blackwater tires. That made my overheating and vapor locking just as bad as the tracks, so I wrapped the exhaust pipe from the engine to the muffler and wrapped the fuel line where it crosses the exhaust and put in aluminum baffles to keep my passenger seat from catching fire, seriously!. There were also many suspension modifications that were necessary as well as an EPI high altitude clutch and a Quantum 58 psi fuel pump. It is also necessary to have the ECU flashed for the new fuel pump. Polaris started using a 58 psi pump in 2012 or 2013 to address the vapor lock issue.

I am not sure if the 2012 still has the fuel line over the top of the exhaust. The 2010 was routed away from the exhaust so I never understood why Polaris put the fuel line right over the exhaust in 2011? I am also not sure why they did a lot of other stupid engineering debackles. .

When the overheating caused a vapor lock l had to sit and let it cool until I discovered the fan runs constantly when you pull the sensor wire off the sensor on the drivers side low down on the engine. It was enough to allow me to limp to camp after it cooled off.

I did that until I finally replaced the radiator with a TCP 2 1/2" core, heavy duty radiator and a SPAL high output fan with a Dakota controller. I also installed real gauges so I can see all of the gauges at once instead of trying to read the temperature and RPM's through the dust on the console!. I installed volt, temperature, and oil pressure. I still use the console for the RPM's.

I programmed the fan controller to come on at 180 degrees and off at 170 degrees. I use relays for all of my accessories including the fan so I put a manual override switch on the controller relay to turn it on at will if necessary. Since I did all of the above mentioned work I have not had an overheating problem and I have run it in the Nevada desert at over 100 degrees all day heavily loaded without a problem. On a normal temperature day my fan won't come on for a half hour or more early in the morning. .

I have no idea why Polaris fan controllers run the temperature over 200 degrees before turning on the fan? Maybe some stupid emission crap, but whatever it is, it will not bring the temperature back down under a heavy load like climbing a long steep hill. Very similar to what you described in your question.

I don't know if TCP (Totally Cool Products) is still in business. It took me almost a year to get my radiator and they told me that was the last one they were building for the early Rangers. I am sure someone else could build it, it was very easy to install using their kit for the wiper reservoir shelf. I believe they still have the video on YouTube that shows the install and the parts they furnished would not be complicated to fabricate.

Good luck, it is a bitch when you spend that much money and have to re engineer it. Thanks for the hosing Polaris. They never sent me a recall on the vapor lock or anything else that may be a problem. The dealer I bought mine from was equally as useless as Polaris!
 

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Just curious.. How do you reprogram the fan to come on at 180 degrees and go off at 170 degrees?? Mine does not overheat; but I like that idea..
Also, relocate the voltage regulator to under the hood instead of blocking the radiator.. That heaps a lot too..
 

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Yes 8Dog, how do you do that ?

"I programmed the fan controller to come on at 180 degrees and off at 170 degrees." :unsure::unsure::unsure:
 

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