[Crashk-201]

I’m having issues getting a “good” pedal after replacing my master cylinder. Purchased this ‘14 earlier this year and brakes were great. Went up to Colorado and had the brakes go out on me while there. Got home and replaced master cylinder and pads. I’ve bench bled the master cylinder. And have tried every way possible to bleed at calipers. I’m getting solid fluid at calipers, no air period. Anybody have any ideas that could help. The brakes work, the pedal just doesn’t feel right. Goes almost all the way to the floor when engaged. Bought this replacement from Babbitts. Any help would be appreciated, thanks

 

[pyromedic]

Assuming that your Colorado trip required lots of braking on steep downhill grades because most Rangers don't have Active Descent Control and their CVT clutch doesn't provide engine braking it's possible that you got the rotors hot enough to warp them, especially if you hit water while they were hot.
I've not heard of this happening specifically on Rangers but it is possible on disc brake systems. Warped rotors can cause a spongy feel in brakes and pulsation of the pedal while lightly braking. A dial indicator it the proper tool to use to diagnose warpage. Severe warpage can cause the symptom of requiring the pedal to be depressed more than usual because the warped rotor pushes the piston in the brake caliper further away from the rotor at one point and that distance has to be made up in order for the pad to contact the rotor in another position.
Bleeding brakes can be tricky on some vehicles due to the design of the braking system. If, for example, a brake line is located at a point higher than a caliper it leaves room for an air pocket or bubble which can be very difficult to remove using the common pump and bleed method of bleeding. Pressure or vacuum bleeding has a much better chance of successful purging to air in those cases because higher volumes of fluid are sent through the lines in a continuous flow pushing air with the fluid until the system is purged. I've not read of anyone specifically having that problem on this Forum. Maybe others will respond with their experiences.
It's also possible to get a new defective master cylinder.

 

[Rangerwhit]

Sounds like a bad master cylinder to me also. Slowly goes to the floor if you stand on it right? Check with Babbits for sure.

 

[Crashk-201]

Thanks for the reply’s, I’ll do some more work on it

 

[rbarre]

As Pyro said a very warped rotor(s) will push the pads outward which will cause excessive travel for the pad to make contact with the rotor on next brake application.
If I remember , the pads need to be in very close contact with the rotors. And are the pads actually contcting the rotors when the brake pedal is depressed?

 

[Crashk-201]

Rotors aren’t warped. I bench bled the master cylinder and it seemed to help. It still isn’t as good as it was with the factory master cylinder. I’m wondering if maybe the aftermarket part isn’t as good as the factory master cylinder

 

[Toxic-21]

You purchased an aftermarket master cylinder from Babbitts?
If so what brand ?