2014 Ranger Power Loss

6324 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by RJ, May 1, 2021

rangermike89

Discussion Starter · May 9, 2018

Alright guys, Im getting stumped on this one. I have 2014 ranger browning edition. Ive done a-lot of work to it and always over maintained. Garage kept its entire life and use it mainly for hunting.

I was running it one day on the pavement and all of sudden the ranger started to bog down. It would do this intermittently. I put a fuel PSI gauge on it yesterday and its reading normal 58psi at idle, then i stomp on the gas it doesn't fluctuate at all (seems fine). I have not had a chance to run it with the gauge hooked up as im waiting on some parts that should be here today. Once I put the parts on Ill get it back on the ground to put a load on it at operating temp. Ive checked the plugs and spark seems to be fine- If it was a plug or spark problem my guess is I would have more issues during idle and even closer to start up- currently only time it seems to act up is at operating temp. Maybe the pump gets tired after an hour of riding once its hot and begins to fail. I checked the vent line, I removed all the fuel in the tank and cleaned. The pump look okay to me but I forgot to tug on the feed line so ill pull it back out tonight to see if the clamp maybe failed and it getting air in the pump (i doubt it, again I think symptoms would be apparent before warm up is achieved). Ive done some reading on the TMAP and TBAP sensors, wondering if I should try and measure the voltage but without a digital wrench its going to be hard to get an accurate reading on weather or not the sensor is bad. The air intake is clear with no obstruction. No codes. No check engine light when acting up. I only have about 270 hours with roughly 1400 miles on it. Machine as never given me an issue until now. Feels to me like its the fuel pump letting loose once it gets hot.

I did notice a small amount of oil build up in the intake boot- seems to be coming from the crank case breather line that goes into the air box. I could have slightly over filled the crank case and this could have caused some oil to find its way into the air hose before the throttle body. I guess I need to clean that hose really well and spray the throttle body with some cleaner. I will also be doing a compression check on both cylinders just to make sure Im not getting excessive blow by- I guess I could event start the engine and pull that hose off the air box and see if its blowing hard or not. I doubt this thing has worn rings as the plugs are clean and no sign of excess oil in cylinders.

Hope someone has had this problem and figured it out. Really dont want to start throwing parts at it- I have a new fuel pump assembly coming from quantum fuel. I didnt want to throw it in until I can verify that the OEM pump has had enough.

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pyromedic

· #2 · May 9, 2018

How old is the fuel in it? Is it ethanol fuel? Ethanol fuel does not store well without special additives. It can begin to undergo phase separation in as little as a month's time, even when stored in a garage. It absorbs humidity from the air and all air, even in a garage, unless it's air conditioned continually, contains moisture. Leaving low fuel level is in the tank can exacerbate the problem because more air is in the tank to transfer moisture.

How old is the battery? An old battery with low voltage can affect all of the electronics including spark strength. I'd suggest fully charging it, removal, check and cleaning of all terminals and a load test.

Reactions: 2

rangermike89

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 10, 2018

The fuel in the tank was just put in, I also always run an additive- always. Usually k100 or startron. The battery is original with the machine- roughly 4 years old and then some however long it sat on the shelf. However, the battery still passes the load test and still continue to hold over 12.6v. I do know that a new battery is need in the future just dont think it has anything to do with the failure I experience.

Ive checked the plugs they look brand new, Ive checked all intake, Ive checked the plug wires and coil but if those go bad its usually going to tell you at idle as well (rough). Im checking compression tonight, I think I should prob pull the valve cover off and check valve lash although the machine only has 260hours on it I wouldn't suspect valve clearance has changed dramatically.

I still need to pull the fuel pump back out and check the pickup line- I dont think its that but ill check it anyway.

If the machine doesnt throw me a code its hard for me to agree that its electronic- Im leaning more towards fuel related- either the pump gets weak after some run time and once its had a chance to heat up- Maybe the fuel line itself that runs dangerously close to the manifold is heating up causing vapor to get to the rail.

Im going to pull the throttle body off and just clean front and back of the butterfly valve and the hit the sensor with some electronic cleaner. Ill put the Tmap out of the plenum and clean that off as well.

Ill be putting tires back on it this weekend to go run it up to temp, then load test everything and see if any fluctuation in the rail psi. I really hope its the fuel pump, otherwise this could turn out to be a cat and mouse game.

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pyromedic

· #4 · May 10, 2018

If there were any unusual noises prior to the event it is possible that the cam timing jumped. The Cam chain tensioner is hydraulic and if the vehicle is left sitting unused for a long period (or maybe a short one) the OEM tensioner can lose pressure and allow the chain to be slack until oil pressure pumps the tensioner back up. During this period it is possible for the cam timing to jump. You can check it easily when you are checking valve clearance, although I think it's unlikely that this is the problem if it runs normally for a while then acts up. If that is the case I also doubt valve clearance is the problem.

You may have a problem with your fuel pressure regulator.

rangermike89

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 10, 2018

I never noticed a noise that would indicate the timing chain jumped, but like you said Ill check that once I pull the cover off. I appreciate your input and hopefully others will see the post and have some insight as well.

I have the new quantum pump assembly here, Im debating on changing it out as the OEM pump seems to be operating correctly for now.

superiorsp1

· #6 · May 11, 2018

ranger mike my 13 lost power and it was a cracked throttle boot couldnt see it till off?
make sure spark arestors not clogged and ive had pressure from pump but not volume maybe regulator

ride safe

eastcoastoffroad

· #7 · Sep 6, 2018

I have a 2014 900 Ranger with the same symptoms you describe. Starts rate up from cold, runs fine until operating temp then it chokes up, no power will hardly move. I shut it down for 10 min and it will work fine for a few min or so until warm again then same problem.
I have a low milage well maintained machine. Cant figure it out. First I was thinking electrical problem, intermittent loss of fire because It sometimes back fires during this act, so unburnt fuel is present. But why only when warm is the question. Bad coil maybe? I haven't had the time to trouble shoot yet due to my work schedule but I was thinking on checking all the things you already checked. ( fuel, condition, fuel pressure, plugs, wiring harnesses etc) When I get at it Il post my findings on here. It will be 2-3 weeks. Good luck

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Taz54904

· #8 · Sep 7, 2018

I had the same problem with my 2013 Ranger Crew 800. When I took it to the dealership and told them that there wasn't any errors codes, they told me that more than likely it was the Oil Pressure Relief Valve. This will cause the lifters to float and make is sound like it's running bad (not misfiring) and you'll have no power. They remove the "dowel" and chamfer the end of it. This took care of the problem. I have put on 200+ miles over a couple of rides and haven't had any more issues. They also (temporarily) installed a fuel pressure gage so I could monitor when/if it happened again which it didn't so they removed the gage. It's not something that is written up on the Polaris Service Manual.

Rangerwhit

· #9 · Sep 8, 2018

Slow down Rangermike. My thought is if you change too many things at once, you might end up with multiple variables or chasing your tail. Start with the simple options first, such as a battery load test or fuel pressure. Is 58psi correct. Seems I remember 39 +- 3. My money is on the pump. How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. Good luck and keep us posted!

Travis 900 crew

· #10 · May 4, 2020

rangermike89 said:
Alright guys, Im getting stumped on this one. I have 2014 ranger browning edition. Ive done a-lot of work to it and always over maintained. Garage kept its entire life and use it mainly for hunting.

I was running it one day on the pavement and all of sudden the ranger started to bog down. It would do this intermittently. I put a fuel PSI gauge on it yesterday and its reading normal 58psi at idle, then i stomp on the gas it doesn't fluctuate at all (seems fine). I have not had a chance to run it with the gauge hooked up as im waiting on some parts that should be here today. Once I put the parts on Ill get it back on the ground to put a load on it at operating temp. Ive checked the plugs and spark seems to be fine- If it was a plug or spark problem my guess is I would have more issues during idle and even closer to start up- currently only time it seems to act up is at operating temp. Maybe the pump gets tired after an hour of riding once its hot and begins to fail. I checked the vent line, I removed all the fuel in the tank and cleaned. The pump look okay to me but I forgot to tug on the feed line so ill pull it back out tonight to see if the clamp maybe failed and it getting air in the pump (i doubt it, again I think symptoms would be apparent before warm up is achieved). Ive done some reading on the TMAP and TBAP sensors, wondering if I should try and measure the voltage but without a digital wrench its going to be hard to get an accurate reading on weather or not the sensor is bad. The air intake is clear with no obstruction. No codes. No check engine light when acting up. I only have about 270 hours with roughly 1400 miles on it. Machine as never given me an issue until now. Feels to me like its the fuel pump letting loose once it gets hot.

I did notice a small amount of oil build up in the intake boot- seems to be coming from the crank case breather line that goes into the air box. I could have slightly over filled the crank case and this could have caused some oil to find its way into the air hose before the throttle body. I guess I need to clean that hose really well and spray the throttle body with some cleaner. I will also be doing a compression check on both cylinders just to make sure Im not getting excessive blow by- I guess I could event start the engine and pull that hose off the air box and see if its blowing hard or not. I doubt this thing has worn rings as the plugs are clean and no sign of excess oil in cylinders.

Hope someone has had this problem and figured it out. Really dont want to start throwing parts at it- I have a new fuel pump assembly coming from quantum fuel. I didnt want to throw it in until I can verify that the OEM pump has had enough.

( did you have any luck with this mine is doing the same thing)

Travis 900 crew

· #11 · May 4, 2020

any luck mine is doing the same thing with same amount of hours

rangermike89

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 18, 2020

Travis 900 crew said:
any luck mine is doing the same thing with same amount of hours

It wound up being the fuel pump. swapped it out and i was good to go.

SnowGirl5

· #13 · Apr 30, 2021

eastcoastoffroad said:
I have a 2014 900 Ranger with the same symptoms you describe. Starts rate up from cold, runs fine until operating temp then it chokes up, no power will hardly move. I shut it down for 10 min and it will work fine for a few min or so until warm again then same problem.
I have a low milage well maintained machine. Cant figure it out. First I was thinking electrical problem, intermittent loss of fire because It sometimes back fires during this act, so unburnt fuel is present. But why only when warm is the question. Bad coil maybe? I haven't had the time to trouble shoot yet due to my work schedule but I was thinking on checking all the things you already checked. ( fuel, condition, fuel pressure, plugs, wiring harnesses etc) When I get at it Il post my findings on here. It will be 2-3 weeks. Good luck

I have the same problems with my 2014 590 EFI ranger. Mine runs great, good power , but on hot days after about 25 miles she’ll backfire and loose all power then dies. After about 20 min she’ll start again and go for a while. But only on hot days. We’ve had fuel pressure checked. Cleaned gas tank and filter screen. Dealer said not showing any codes. Ugggh what fixed your problem?

BPS

· #14 · Apr 30, 2021

Was the fuel pressure checked at the time that it loses power?

RJ

· #15 · May 1, 2021

I wouldn't trust the dealer unless he run it for 5 miles on a hot day and then tested your fuel pressure. Get a fuel pressure tester and check it yourself when it is hot and acting up. Your symptoms are CLASSIC fuel pump going bad.

Highflowfuel. Com will have your pump. Get the kit that includes the regulator.

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