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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys my 900 ranger is acting really weird... only in high and low it surges, stalls and even dies sometimes when you try to drive normally. It doesn’t do this in reverse.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks


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Runs fine in neutral or reverse with load and surges/stalls in either forward gear loaded? Mine is old, but am thinking clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Runs fine in neutral or reverse with load and surges/stalls in either forward gear loaded? Mine is old, but am thinking clutches.
I pulled the clutches off and they seem fine- really don’t have many miles on them. It really seems to be electronic. I give it consistent throttle input and it is very erratic in response.


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That is an odd problem. While Ranger may be correct about clutches, I am a bit dubious. The clutch spins the same direction and operates the same way regardless of range or whether you are in forward or reverse. I am inclined to believe the problem is elsewhere.

Additional information would be helpful. Has the vehicle been sitting unused for a long period of time (over winter)? Did you recently add fuel just before the problem developed? Any chance rodents got to the wiring? Any trouble codes? Has the vehicle been serviced regularly? Did you do anything specific just before the problem began that may have caused the problem? (wash the vehicle with a pressure washer for example)

If you have been using fuel with ethanol and the vehicle has been sitting for some time it may be a fuel problem. Ethanol fuel undergoes phase separation when it sits for long periods. It can absorb moisture from the air (even in a closed container), ethanol attacks rubber and even some metal parts in fuel systems, it loses octane rating pretty quickly and can generally wreak havoc.

If you just added fuel it is possible it was contaminated or if ethanol and stored, even in a closed plastic container, may have brought with it contaminates that are causing your problems.

Regardless of whether ethanol fuel turns out to be your problem, ethanol fuel is not your friend. If at all possible always run non ethanol fuel and add fuel stabilizer which will keep fuel fresh for a year. In my experience, using non ethanol fuel and Sta Bil for storage (Red) I have had fuel remain fresh for more than 2 years even in high humidity, high temperature environments. If you must use ethanol fuel because you cannot find non ethanol in your area ALWAYS use an ethanol fuel treatment IN ADDITION to Sta-Bil for storage. The ethanol fuel treatment reduces the possibility of corrosion of fuel systems and increases time before phase separation takes place but it does not provide long term storage protection that a fuel stabilizer does. Also be aware that NO fuel additive can prevent ethanol in fuel from attacking rubber and plastic parts.

My personal practice is to always run non ethanol fuel and add Sta-Bil for Storage to every tank. By doing so if I should for some unexpected reason (an injury or family emergency perhaps) stop using the vehicle for a period of time the fuel system is always protected. When I plan to store the vehicle I always top off the fuel tank to allow the smallest vapor space possible thus reducing the opportunity for moisture laden air to enter the tank.

Rodents seem to really like the wiring and they chew continually to keep their teeth from growing too long. If your vehicle has been stored in an environment where rodents could get to it you may have some wiring issues. This time of year rodents become active again after a long winter if you live in a cold climate.

You also didn't mention hours/miles on your vehicle and whether maintenance has been done regularly. Although it doesn't account for problems only in forward gears, a clogged/dirty air filter can cause running problems. If your vehicle is accessible to rodents it isn't beyond possibility that they have built a nest in the air intake system.

In short, I think I would be looking at the 3 requirements an engine needs to run, fuel, air and ignition, assuring all systems that supply those necessary elements are doing so at the proper time and regularly. Easy stuff first. I'd start with checking the air filter and associated plumbing, then take a close look at all wiring for damage, and while you're at it separate connectors, check for corrosion and add dielectric grease, I would then probably drain the fuel and have a look at it. Allow it to sit in a clear container overnight. If there is phase separation it will be apparent as a layer in the fuel, probably closer to the bottom of the container. If in any way it was questionable I would replace it with new fuel and add a can of Seafoam. I'd also take a look at the spark plugs just for good measure to assure myself that they were clean, firing, not fouled or damaged.
 
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Alex, did you recently pressure wash the unit or drive in water over the throttle pedal?

It sounds like you have a throttle pedal/TPS issue.
 

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Guys my 900 ranger is acting really weird... only in high and low it surges, stalls and even dies sometimes when you try to drive normally. It doesn’t do this in reverse.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks


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Hi dan here I am having the same issue with my 2013 ranger 900 did you figure out your problem
 

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Did you ever fine the issue with your ranger I have a 13 model 900 started doing the same thing runs fine in reverse but forward back fires pops jerks
 

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Anyone know if low and reverse are geared the same. Really strange that reverse is good, unless it is geared lower.
 

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Guys my 900 ranger is acting really weird... only in high and low it surges, stalls and even dies sometimes when you try to drive normally. It doesn’t do this in reverse.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It might be a cracked intake adapter. As old as your Ranger is they need to be checked anyway.
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MG, because it only does it in " forward & reverse " makes no sense no matter what is wrong with it. Try cleaning up the connection on the throttle pedal. I remember them having a lot of problems with those.
 

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sure was crack intake boots thanks a bunch
MG did the new boots fix the problem? My 16 just started doing the exact same thing. Reverse runs and drives normal, low/high surges. I've swapped throttle body, gas pedal, MAP sensor, and ECM with a known good bike and absolutely no changes.
 

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MG did the new boots fix the problem? My 16 just started doing the exact same thing. Reverse runs and drives normal, low/high surges. I've swapped throttle body, gas pedal, MAP sensor, and ECM with a known good bike and absolutely no changes.
Did you spray carb cleaner around the intake boots?
 

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Did you spray carb cleaner around the intake boots?
RJ I have, and i know my PTO side was busted bad, I could hear it whistling too. I used black silicone to make a temporary repair, I cant hear it whistle now and carb cleaner doesn't make it idle up anymore. No change in how the bike runs. I'm prolly going to go on and get two new ones because i know one needs replacing. But i'm not to optimistic about it fixing my issue.
 

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Decided to go on and order two new intake boots, only like 50$ and I knew I needed one. When I pulled the intake manifold off both ripped in half so the flywheel side was cracked, just couldn't see it from the outside good. Pulled battery cables and left them tied together to reset the codes on the computer just incase that needed to be done. Slapped everything back together and seems to be running like it should. Unfortunately it didn't start acting up when the PTO side boot began to crack and I sucked some dust in I guess... Number one cylinder is about 30 lbs less on compression. I'll run it until I start killing mosquitos then Ill do a top end.
 
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