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Well, after a little searching, I found the oil filter. I would like to thank the engineer who placed it in such a convenient spot. There seems to be no easy way to get to it around a hot exhaust header, so...

What is the best way to get at the filter? It looks like it will also dump oil all over the engine when the seal is broken, so what am I in for there? I am in my "parking garage" and aside from moving boxes on the floor, I really want to protect the concrete in this garage. My other one currently has too many projects under way to make it worth clearing a spot for an oil change. Has anyone fashioned a deflector shield or anything to keep the oil from the top of the engine and creating a total mess or is there no anti-flowback valve in the filter so most of it drains out before breaking the seal?

Before anyone says it - yes, I have ordered a Service Manual - 10 days to 2 weeks - last minute trip and I wanted to change oil before going and can't get a manual by tomorrow. I have 23.5 hours on it. I will also do the front and rear services too, if I have the time tomorrow - otherwise they will have to wait until I get back.

Any suggestions?

Also - in case anyone is wondering, I went with all Polaris oils this time just for the sake of convenience. I didn't have time to research or locate alternate oils and filter at this time of night and I need to get a lot done tomorrow to leave Thursday morning.
 

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I just put a paper towel under the filter and unscrew it, it won't spill as much as you think. Don't over think it, I just put an old box under my machine and that seems to work fine.
 

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Drain the fluid first. Let it drain for a good while. Then, like gunguy said protect for spills. I don't recall mine spilling that much.

If you are really anal then use a screwdriver to poke a hole into the end of filter and let the hole drain the fluid into a large cup.
 

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Awesome - good to hear. Sometimes oil changes are a major hassle. This doesn't sound that bad.I'll get it hot, drain it, let it cool some while doing the front and rear and then go after the filter. Thanks!
 

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It also says in the owners manual to remove the manifold cover to get to it better. I just put some paper towels under it and bent the clutch exhaust so I could get my hand on it better.
 

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Loosen the fill plugs before draining the fluids.:excitement::encouragement:
 
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Loosen the fill plugs before draining the fluids.:excitement::encouragement:
But I really like to hear that "Gloop, gloop" sound as the oil drains and tries to get air and splashes all over the place. :)
 

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Don't forget that there is a small brass washer on the drain plug. This often gets stuck to the bottom of the block and then falls into your drip pan. If you don't find it and get it put back on you will have a slow oil leak until it is replaced.
 

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An oil filter wrench and short extension makes it easy to get the filter off. It is a 64-14. 64mm 14 flats, in a pinch a 65-14 will work with a paper towel over the filter to take up the slack. A65-14 is a very common Toyota filter size so any auto parts store will have one. DO NOT EXERT GORILLA FORCE TIGHTENING THE DRAIN PLUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The trans and front diff especially as they are o-ring boss and get extremely tight with very little force, making them very difficult to remove.
 

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I use a mighty vac oil extractor. Put it in the dip tube and 5 minutes, done.. No mess, no fuss and no crawling under my Ranger.
 

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The only issue with using an extractor, is you are not getting the trash off the magnet, nor is the sediment/settlement being removed. While moisture/condensation is usually not an issue in the engine, rarely do the diff/trans get hot enough to remove moisture which is heavier than oil. The only way to remove it is through the drain plug. Plus it will also tell you if you have a seal leaking.
 
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