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I have a 2017 Ranger 900 XP that I bought new. I use it for jobs around the house and it sits in the garage for extended periods without use. I have only filled the gas tank 4 times since I've had it. This past summer it got to where it would stall out and didn't want to idle.
I put some seafood in the gas, thinking that it may be caused by condensation, and drove it through the neighborhood several times and it cleared up. Couple weeks ago I changed the oil and put 5 gallons of ethanol free gas in it .I drove it through the neighborhood to charge the battery. It ran fine and idled good.
I needed to use it yesterday and it didn't want to idle. It popped and sputtered and would stall. It would crank and run as long as I gave it some gas. I drove it through the neighborhood to try and clear it out.
It sputtered and seamed like it was missing but would clear up at wide opened throttle. It would run just fine at part throttle while cruising at 30mph but it wanted to stall when I came to a stop.
I put a 3rd of a bottle of seafood fuel injector cleaner in the tank with 5 gallons of gas and drove it some more. It never would idle more than 30 second and smelled like it was running really rich.

Sorry for the long post but I give as much info as possible.

I hate to take it to my local dealer. They will just start replacing stuff.

Any idea what the issue is?
 

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TF, if it were me and I didn't see any check engine/ codes, I would be checking the fuel pressure for 58 psi..

These are all typical low pressure symptoms including the smelling of rich gas fumes.... :

"It sputtered and seamed like it was missing but would clear up at wide opened throttle. It would run just fine at part throttle while cruising at 30mph but it wanted to stall when I came to a stop ".

 

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‘17 Ranger 570 Midsize
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First, I'd take a look at the air filter, but make sure you put it back on right.

If you had it filled with Ethanol fuel, I think cleaning the fuel system is a good start. I'd probably also use some carburetor cleaner on it or at least look at it to see if it looks gummed up or not. If it still doesn't want to run after clean carburetor, I'd probably drain the fuel and put new fuel in it. You could start with just a couple of gallons to see if it will run.
 
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I put some seafood in the gas
I think this is your problem, Rangers are allergic to shellfish ;)

Seriously though, I'd would check for that 58 psi jungleman suggested and if that shows good I'd siphon all of the fuel out and refill. Then, on the 900 you can remove the valve core on the fuel injector rail and cycle the key to flush all of the old fuel out of the pump/line and rail.
 

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2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
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Another thing you might check is battery condition. A battery sitting 6 months without a charger attached is a recipe for a weak, sulfated, internally shorted battery. A weak battery draws a lot from the charging system attempting to charge it and at idle the charging systems doesn't put out a lot of amps like it does a higher RPM. Low alternator output and a weak battery make for an ignition system that is barely getting enough current to operate which may cause the low RPM symptoms you describe. Charge the battery on a charge and get it load tested to eliminate this possibility.
 
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The last time I dumped seafood in the fuel tank the whole garage started to smell like dead fish but I could sure cross some deep water .....
 

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Sorry for the long post but I give as much info as possible.

I hate to take it to my local dealer. They will just start replacing stuff.

Any idea what the issue is?
[/QUOTE]

My 2016 900 XP runs very similarily to yours and has since leaving warranty... And I do not use mine often. All of my offroad gasoline is stored using Pri-G stabilizer and is name brand 89 - 91 octane non-ethanol. I have learned to only put a couple gallons in the tank at a time, as my Ranger seems to only like the fresh fuels- or maybe this is also part of the issue? My Ranger is stored in my insulated, non-heated workshop and kept on a smart battery charger. My Husqvarna XP chain saws also require fresh fuel for proper starting.

I have gone through the Polaris shop manual troubleshooting things seemingly appropriate, to no avail. I have no codes. I have changed spark plugs, the air filter is clean, referenced voltages check out fine, etc. Last year I replaced the battery with an Odyssey PC1200 LMJT due to an EPS issue (fixed that) and the Ranger now seems to have less starting issues. I suspect fuel pressure as my issue and most likely the regulator due to being intermittent at times.

I purchased a $60 Amazon fuel pressure gauge (3.5' hose assy.) recently to check the fuel pressure but the unit leaked fuel and I was not able to complete my testing. Many folks on here recommend the HFT units but the 3' hosed version I want has not been in stock at any of my local stores. I plan on purchasing an OTC 4480 fuel pressure tester soon. This item is on my Amazon wish list and I will purchase as an emergency spare if it goes on sale for a better price during the holiday season. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HHHW...&colid=NWN2QC2Y57YY&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Please let us know if you get it fixed.
 

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"I purchased a $60 Amazon fuel pressure gauge (3.5' hose assy.) recently to check the fuel pressure but the unit leaked fuel "

Which unit ? If it is a ACTRON, you can get a five dollar box of fuel resistant O' rings at Harbor Freight and replace the bad one .
 

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"I purchased a $60 Amazon fuel pressure gauge (3.5' hose assy.) recently to check the fuel pressure but the unit leaked fuel "

Which unit ? If it is a ACTRON, you can get a five dollar box of fuel resistant O' rings at Harbor Freight and replace the bad one .
It was a no-name Chinese brand I returned. The unit came with a lot of parts and I am always suspect of that type of deal, but took my best shot at the moment due to the hose length and delivery time.
 

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Junbleman. your comment got me back to thinking more about my Ranger issue. Long story short, I found an Amazon review for the OTC 4480 unit with my screen name from 2012 when I was troubleshooting an issue with my Jeep. Huh? So I went out to the workshop for a deep dive through all of the automotive stuff... I found the OTC unit misfiled away from the automotive tools on the other side of the workshop with the wood working tools.

OP: I plan on testing next week and will post my results.
 

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Toyotafreak, recall my symptoms were very similar to yours and have been so, long-term. I had suspected a fuel pressure issue- most likely the regulator, but no longer think so after testing of the fuel pressure today.

  • With key-on, engine-off and not purging the fuel pressure gauge test hose, the pressure was 56-57 PSI indicated- not knowing the accuracy of the gauge.
  • I started the engine and it ran rough and sounded constipated- pretty typical.
  • I gave it some gas- having to depress the pedal more than is normally necessary, and moved the UTV outside of the workshop for further testing.
  • Fuel pressure was 57 PSI indicated and steady. The idle RPMs fluctuated fairly quickly from 1200 - 1450. Pressing on the accelerator a little bit increased the RPMs and it was still running rough. All of this is fairly typical for me.
  • I turned the engine off, purged the fuel test gauge hose and restarted the engine. The RPMs settled down to 1200 - 1300 with 1250 a close average. A slightly less than perfect idle but the norm for my unit. The engine now accepted fuel from the pedal, ran smoothly, other than the less than perfect idle and spun up quickly with the typical exhaust growl.

- Running the engine in neutral between 3000 - 4000 RPM had the fuel test gauge needle fluctuating rapidly between 56 - 58 PSI. I was expecting a more steady pressure and maybe someone can mention if this is normal or not?

All during this time testing at idle RPMs, the fuel pressure remained steady ~ 57 PSI indicated- either with the idle being rough or with the idle being relatively smooth. So I do not have a clue of what this issue is.
 

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sdef, have you tried cleaning your TMAP sensor? It may solve your idle issue.

Also, you have the rectangular air filter. Pull the tube that is between the air box and throttle body and look at the throttle plate. Hopefully it doesn't look like my avatar.
 

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sdef, have you tried cleaning your TMAP sensor? It may solve your idle issue.

Also, you have the rectangular air filter. Pull the tube that is between the air box and throttle body and look at the throttle plate. Hopefully it doesn't look like my avatar.
No I have not and thank you for the suggestions. I will do both soonish and reply with my results.
 

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sdef, have you tried cleaning your TMAP sensor? It may solve your idle issue.

Also, you have the rectangular air filter. Pull the tube that is between the air box and throttle body and look at the throttle plate. Hopefully it doesn't look like my avatar.
BPS, Would you please provide a little more info on how to go about cleaning the TMAP sensor? Lately I've noticed that my Ranger backfires when cold after deceleration down a grade and I suspect a mixture that is too rich when cold. After the engine reaches about 140 degrees everything is normal. I'd like to try cleaning sensors to see if that resolves the problem.
Thanks!
 

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BPS, Would you please provide a little more info on how to go about cleaning the TMAP sensor? Lately I've noticed that my Ranger backfires when cold after deceleration down a grade and I suspect a mixture that is too rich when cold. After the engine reaches about 140 degrees everything is normal. I'd like to try cleaning sensors to see if that resolves the problem.
Thanks!
I remove the sensor and simply spray it using a can of brake clean. It doesn't leave any residue and dries quickly. Mass airflow sensor cleaner works (and may be a better option) as well but I usually don't have any. I've never damaged a sensor doing this, even the ones that I've cleaned 4-5 years ago are still working as they should.
 

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I remove the sensor and simply spray it using a can of brake clean. It doesn't leave any residue and dries quickly. Mass airflow sensor cleaner works (and may be a better option) as well but I usually don't have any. I've never damaged a sensor doing this, even the ones that I've cleaned 4-5 years ago are still working as they should.
Thanks BPS, I'll give it a try.
 

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Brake clean................carb cleaner....Mapp sensor cleaner... Like B said "nothing that will leave a residue" so the sensor can't sample..
 

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Update after checking the TPMS and throttle body as BPS suggested.
I found the throttle body to be pristine in cleanliness, along with the TPMS. I cleaned the TPMS anyway with brake cleaner. However, the inside of the air tube between the throttle body and air filter box was coated with a very fine, soft, white powder- resembling kaolin. This powder was not in or on the inside of the throttle body, TPMS or air filter box and was only found inside the air tube. It appears to have been this way from the factory? I have never seen a substance resembling kaolin in my area, although we do have a lot of clay. I washed the tube inside and out and reinstalled.

After this maintenance was performed, the UTV still idled as it did previously with a slight roughness and idle speed of 1200 – 1300 RPM- warmed to operating temperature or cold 1200 - 1350 RPM (70 degrees air temp.) There are no codes displayed on the dash. It did not have the "constipated" missing sound and engine miss at startup and idle like it did yesterday and other days- but this does not happen every time it is started. At this point I do not feel like I have fixed anything.

Total hours= 89, total miles= 189. Historically, it has spent a 1/2 day period at an off-road RV park and the rest of the time around my home working as a mule and third hand. I have always been careful to ensure the air filter box was properly installed after maintenance.

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