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Use the ranger at night??? lol I don't even have time to use it during the day. It should last me forever or until the next best thing comes out.....
So with that said, you may want to look into the Ceramic Tint.
 

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Depending on how you use your Ranger, the Tinted widows can obstruct your vision at night.
But are great during the daytime.
This is very true. With my HIDs and back up cubes front and back are fine but I have trouble seeing out my sides at night.
I am actually going to be flush mounting some pods on the side for this very reason, it can be tricky in tight quarters at night.

So with that said, you may want to look into the Ceramic Tint.
Also a great compromise and will make a big difference.
 

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I have 2017 Northstar and live in Wisconsin. Air comes out COLD in cab. Wife asks me to turn it down because it's too cold for her on a 90 degree day during trail rides! Sounds like equipment issues with your machine!
 

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I have a 2019 Northstar Crew now, and while the air conditioning is nice when it is 75-80 out, it can NOT keep up when it is 90+ outside.

I have taken it to my dealer and basically it was said that its doing what its supposed to do.

Some days I wish I had a tip out windshield for it since it is cooler with the outside air than the air conditioning inside. Think swamppy

I have put thermometers in the vents and at idle sometimes it will go to 60-70. And it gets warmer after driving full throttle for 5-6 miles. I need to do some data logging and write everything down.

Has anyone put a thermometer in the vent to see what temps are coming out?

I might need to go test drive the John Deere with A/C while its still hot.

Otherwise the machine is way more refined than my 2016 900 xp was. Just hate to have dropped the coin for A/C and not have it work as I had hoped it would.
 

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I agree with Toxic the tint would definitely help. I would also take your Ranger to a local Auto Mechanic and have them check out the refrigerant charge to ensure it's correct. The Northstar is probably the only thing that an everyday Polaris mechanic works on that has A/C. I would also check the intake for the blower to ensure that there is no gaps, or something being disconnected that would be allowing it to suck in a lot of unregulated outdoor air or air from the radiator section. Oh one more check is to make sure your radiator and condenser coil are clean. A lot of times we ride in some dusty, muddy, etc. climates which most Rangers can handle without being cleaned out regularly, but with the added heat of compression from A/C compressor, dirty radiator and condenser coils can definitely aggravate the problems you are seeing. Checking air temps at idle will just show this problem even more, due to the lower of air flow across the radiator / condenser coil.
 

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I purchased a 2018 Northstar in February this year. I am in central California. I have around 1200 miles on it. We had record breaking heat this summer and my ac worked great with over 100 deg days. This ranger would be useless without the ac on hot summer days. With the dusty roads you can’t run with the windows down. Even on cooler days if the roads are dusty you can’t run with the windows down. If you remove the cab filter under the hood and plug it off the ac should work better but if the roads are dusty the dust will sift in and choke you out. You need that filtered outside air to keep the cab pressurized to keep the dust out. My wife drives a 2013 800 ranger crew. When it’s really hot or really cold my Northstar gets hi jacked by the boss.
 

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I feel your pain...
Had a 2013 Deluxe HDPTO Brutus until I traded for the 2018 Ranger 900.

At 90+ the a/c just gave up, I'd flip the windshield up and the 200 degree air from the radiator would bake me. The story is this, the coolant fan must run all the time, the radiator must be kept clean as a whistle, same goes for that condenser and it's fan, the refrigerent must be maxed out, a 160 thermostat helps too.

The condenser and Radiator are too small, they need to be sized and effective at 120°F Ambient even when 35% blocked. A higher speed multi-fan setup moves way more CFM which is also important as the ambient temperature rises and is less able to absorb heat.

Serious insulation behind the dash, in the tunnel on the floor, thick rubber floor mats, insulation all around the seats, tinted glass and roof insulation are needed.

And let's not forget the exhaust manifold/headers inches from your backs @ 400°F. Heat shielding, ceramic coating, fan assisted heat dissapation rearward will help too. While we are at it a complete insulated firewall between the engine and the cab.

By now I'm sure that everyone knows the content of my complaints to Polaris about their lackluster attempt to air condition the Brutus. From the sound of things in this thread, it all fell on deaf ears. For everyone who is sweltering now I wish that I had swung a little harder at Polaris.

I'm sure I forgot a thing or two, but this list is a great start.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
It's too bad that the Polaris Engineering leadership doesn't get out of their Air Conditioned offices and actually use their products and see what the end users actually have to put up with. Thanks Ranchero and Gh0strider for the info, I'll be looking into this.

ps. I wonder if running the cab filter from under the hood to the outside to get fresh air from the outside might help keep the air cooler. Polaris Industries should run their Northstars down to the Yuma Proving Grounds to test them in the summer desert temps. and see how badly they perform.

My dog Bob approves this message.
 
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