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Changed tranny/ diff yesterday and magnet was pretty covered in metal...first change at 10 hours and yesterday at 50 hrs. Any alternatives as I was not impressed with AGL? Royal purple would be ideal, just not sure what to run.
 

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I used amzoil chaincase lube synthectic had it in tranny two years took it out the other day still looked new very little color and metal on plug was very little T&S
 

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I run royal purple in my 03 f250 6.0 love it T&S
 

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before Amsoil came out with their gear and chaincase oil, their substitute for the polaris transaxel oil was their own HYD oil. I believe it was John Deere specs. Honestly, I don't think it matters much what kind of HYD oil you run as long as you change it yearly. John Deere spec oils are one of the highest grade of HYD oil out there. I'm not talking about JD 303 spec only oil, but an oil that is JD20, and JD 20C compatible.

Could you run it in the front diff? I suppose you could I believe HYD oil is around 30weight. That might be a little heavier than the polaris oil for the front diff (theirs seems to be the viscosity of water) but I'm sure it's be ok.

I have 3 rangers. 2 of them have had only polaris gear case oil their entire life. Those two rangers have eaten two transissions, EACH. (they now have amsoil gear and chaincase lube and so far have been holding up)

The 3rd ranger has had only JD HYD oil (Same stuff we run in our tractors), and has not sniffed a transmission problem. And it's driver is most likely the most abusive.

For those who think HYD oil isn't enough protection for helical gears, Keep in mind that a tractors transmission not only has the gear case to take care of, but in almost all cases the transmission/hyraulic oil also is the same oil that is used for the ring/pinion. they share that oil for all 3 uses. And with the load that tractors pull in extreme conditions, I see no reason why it wouldn't be good enough for the ranger trans.

The biggest problem with the ranger transmission setup (besides running cheap Chinese ball bearings) is the lack of fluid capacity. I believe polaris calls for about 1.2 quarts in their 800 transmissions. in 2012 they raised the fill plug height and I believe the capacity increased slightly. When I change oil put in in 2 quarts. for the pre 2012 units with the fill plug on the right side, I put a floor jack under the right side frame rail and lift the entire right side of the machine off the ground as high as I can go without tipping it over. then I put the oil in and replace the plug. The 2012 and newer you can jack the rear up to help the oil run to the front and get it in that way. Some folks like to put the fluid in through the vent tube. I don't have the patience for it. It felt like my kids would be through college by the time I got 2 quarts of oil through that little tube.

Change your oil yearly, but don't be duped into thinking you have to run the polaris oils-or else. Just be sure you're ready for polaris to try and deny any warranty claims for not running their specified oil.
 

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I've never run royal purple oils, but I have had hear good stuff about them.

I've been running amsoil products for a little over 2 years now. I run their 0w-40 powersports 4 stroke oil in all of our rangers along with their wix filter... I have had less engine related issues since making the switch.

Paying $22 for 2 quarts of polaris oil, and $12 for their filter is flat out robbery. I believe I do my oil changes with amsoil/wix for about $24 per oil change.

One of the reasons I'm sticking with Amsoil is because of their greases. I have noticed such an improvement in greasing intervals and pin/ bushing life in our farm equipment that it's obvious that when it comes to oil, these guys know what the heck their doing.
 

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I have been using Royal Purple Sychromax in the trans and front diff. Works very well. Just changed it for the second time and found very minimal deposits on the magnets.
 

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All of these transmission fluids and UTF hydraulic fluids being discussed contain friction modifiers to reduce the slipperyness so that they work with synchros and wet clutches. The Ranger doesn't have synchros or clutches, so wouldn't it make sense to choose a more slippery oil, like something with a GL5 rating?
 

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Get it too thick, and it won't throw oil to all the bearings well enough is my fear. since there isn't much in the case for gears (just the front propshaft drive gear) I'm not sure just how important a GL5 rating would be. It's more of a "chaincase" than it is a "gearcase".

I figure if strait HYD oil is good enough for the gear train of my 150hp tractor pulling a 21ft disk all day long, then the ranger should be peanuts...

It would be interesting if someone in the oil industry was able to test these oils against each other to see how they performed and the failures that would/could happen in a controlled environment.
 
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