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Discussion Starter #1
Heading to Nflow Friday for a top end kit, they are a little over an hour from me.

1. Ring gap. Does this need to be looked at, or put the rings on and install. May see if Nflow can install the rings and then put the pistons in the cylinder for me.

2. Break in procedure? Have read everything from baby it and slowly building up to balls to the wall over 25 hours, run it exactly how you plan to use it without worrying about a break in, to warming it up then running it continuously above 2500 rpm for 30 minutes bumping the throttle every minute (holz engine recommendation)

3. Oil for break in, conventional of course, but a multi grade 15w40 or a straight 30 weight?

4. How long till first oil drain?

I am leaning towards the 2500+ RPM for 30 min, followed by an oil change. And then changed again at the 10 and 25 hour mark.

Who has done a top end, how did you break her in, and what oil did you use?

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Discussion Starter #3
Get one of these for starters if you don't already have one.

Polaris Ranger Service Manuals PDF Download
I appreciate the link, but that was the first thing I had to have. Needed it for torque specs for what I have already done.

Bought this thing cheap at 1500 knowing it needed some work. After master cylinder, breaks, wheel bearings, hubs, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints the rolling chassis is good. Had no break pressure so it wouldn't start with the key when I picked it up, screw driver only.

Pulled the rear diff to check the pinion nut, luckily mine is an early build with the staked nut. Split the case for inspection and cleaning as the fluid was grey. Replaced the seals and case oring and put it back in.

As far as the engine, a K&N got the motor. Sent the head to the machine shop, cleaned, inspected and new valves installed. Replaced the impeller with the billit upgrade, and have a new thermostat. Ordered all new intake boots from the head attachment to the air cleaner, and have the vent racing donaldson ready to install. All new exhaust gaskets, springs, and the grommits for mounting. Probably missed a few things. All the remaining fluids have been drained, flushed, and refilled.

Got it back in November, just made it a winter project to wrench on when it wasnt to cold in the garage. Motor has been apart since end of December. I'm itching to hear it run again. I should be around 3500 all in when completed.

Lots of add ons. It came with a new winch and frame mount, 4 Led pod lights, and switches all still in the packages. The guy was in over his head that sold it, he had very little tools or mechanical know how. Have doors for it too.


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Here is a great top end rebuild link:


Straight 30 for my break in at varying rpms. Neighbors were wondering what I was drinking that week! 20 hrs if I recall. Mixed thoughts on break in everywhere you go. "Drive it like you stole it" Etc.
 

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I'd ask NFlow for their recommendations and/or follow the Owner's Manual recommendations for break in, type of oil, change interval, etc. Lots of non professionals with limited experience compared to manufacturers and rebuilders will tell you all kinds of wives tales and recite what they heard somewhere. Whether the info is accurate or not is questionable and you are the one taking the risks. I don't believe you can go far wrong following OEM recommendations or those of the rebuilder.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just following up after a visit to Nflow. Chris answered every question I had. I highly recommend doing business with them. Top notch customer service. The kit is on an exchange of your used cylinder, and they offered to let me keep my cylinder because I left the dowels in it. I already ordered new ones.

There recommendation for break in, 2-3 heat cycles, and non synthetic oil. Oil can be mutli grade OR straight weight. After heat cycling the motor, operate it... Nothing crazy like full pedal blasts and don't baby it. Change oil/filter after 12 to 15 hours, and you can go to synthetic at this time. This is there recommendation on top end and the complete engine packages they sell.

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