Vary RPM, use low under 20MPH, don't redline it and change all fluids at 25/hrs. I just took it easy..
900xp break in questions
i have used the search feature and google and still trying to get an idea about use of low vs high during the break in .I picked up my 2015 last week and have a couple of questions. the manual says to use low for typical or ordinary driving, I'm used to using high around our property on our sportsman 850 . up to what speed should i be driving it around dirt and grass in low? if I'm on an asphalt road should i keep it in low or is it ok to keep it in high? I'm a bit confused ... i hope i didn't screw up by driving it in high the first 2 hours of the machine, didn't open it up but was varying the speed.
the other question i have is it normal tin the first few hours of operation to have the smell of coolant burning and light color smoke/steam from around the radiator. i checked and there were no leaks on my floor but i did drive it through about a foot of water in our pond the other night having fun. when i got back to the garage and parked it i could see very light smoke or steam coming from the radiator area. i checked the radiator and it is full and the reservoir is also at max level. and it didn't look very wet around the the front and back of the radiator , the fan was working when the machine was on and there were no indication of anything on the instrument cluster. oh wait it was like 40 degrees out, and man do i love this vehicle so far
the other question i have is it normal tin the first few hours of operation to have the smell of coolant burning and light color smoke/steam from around the radiator. i checked and there were no leaks on my floor but i did drive it through about a foot of water in our pond the other night having fun. when i got back to the garage and parked it i could see very light smoke or steam coming from the radiator area. i checked the radiator and it is full and the reservoir is also at max level. and it didn't look very wet around the the front and back of the radiator , the fan was working when the machine was on and there were no indication of anything on the instrument cluster. oh wait it was like 40 degrees out, and man do i love this vehicle so far
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Don't hammer on it till you get about 4-5 hours on it. Then you can run it however you like. I prefer to do an engine oil change at about 10 hours, just to get the break in material out of it sooner. But Polaris says 25 hours.
Drive it like you stole it. I have on all 3 of mine.
Oh.... Buy the warranty!!!!
Oh.... Buy the warranty!!!!
Ditto. Allow a few hours for the rings to seat and belt to wear in (doesn't take long), then drive it normally.Don't hammer on it till you get about 4-5 hours on it. Then you can run it however you like. I prefer to do an engine oil change at about 10 hours, just to get the break in material out of it sooner. But Polaris says 25 hours.
If money is no object, forgo the break in period. If you are concerned about longevity, do the break-in period, as the mechanics of a new internal combustion engine ABSOLUTELY require it.Maybe skip it on your new lava light........ Geezus..................:wink-new:
Oh boy... the dreaded discussion of breaking in an engine.:indecisiveness:
After building dozens of diesel truck engines, getting them started, warmed up, fluids checked, and then strapping them down on a dyno and running the guts out of them for an hour to break the rings in and check HP, you'd be surprised how many of them have blown up.-------------ZERO-----------
Not only is this common practice, but it's recommended by the manufacturer in most cases.
You have to think about what will change during the first few hours of an engines life. With the bearing clearance change? no. will the piston rings change size? no. will the bore grow? no. what about the crankshaft? will it magically change and ruin something if not run 25 hours before being pushed? no.
The only thing that changes IMO, is after an engine has been warmed up fully, and run a distance, all of the assmebly greases and any crud that could have floating around in the oil system is either dissolved, or trapped in the oil filter. That's it.
I can tell you though what's happened to MANY owners in both the truck and in the UTV world that babies their engines during the first 20 hours of it's life. The rings FAIL to seat. when that happens, you have high oil consumption, and get fuel in the oil. that's a heck of a way to start out on a new engine. Short trips not letting the engine warm fully attribute mostly to this. but low load, excessive idling, and babying your machine also don't help.
Get your machine, drive it a half hour warming it up good check all your fluids again, and then drive it the way YOU WILL USE IT.
Any engines that fail right away in the first few hours of ownership were doomed to fail from assembly. something wasn't put together right. they'll either fail sooner or later, but they WILL fail. none of this is would be attributed to break in, or lack thereof....
Now what polaris would tell you while trying to snake out of a warranty claim would be a different story.
After building dozens of diesel truck engines, getting them started, warmed up, fluids checked, and then strapping them down on a dyno and running the guts out of them for an hour to break the rings in and check HP, you'd be surprised how many of them have blown up.-------------ZERO-----------
Not only is this common practice, but it's recommended by the manufacturer in most cases.
You have to think about what will change during the first few hours of an engines life. With the bearing clearance change? no. will the piston rings change size? no. will the bore grow? no. what about the crankshaft? will it magically change and ruin something if not run 25 hours before being pushed? no.
The only thing that changes IMO, is after an engine has been warmed up fully, and run a distance, all of the assmebly greases and any crud that could have floating around in the oil system is either dissolved, or trapped in the oil filter. That's it.
I can tell you though what's happened to MANY owners in both the truck and in the UTV world that babies their engines during the first 20 hours of it's life. The rings FAIL to seat. when that happens, you have high oil consumption, and get fuel in the oil. that's a heck of a way to start out on a new engine. Short trips not letting the engine warm fully attribute mostly to this. but low load, excessive idling, and babying your machine also don't help.
Get your machine, drive it a half hour warming it up good check all your fluids again, and then drive it the way YOU WILL USE IT.
Any engines that fail right away in the first few hours of ownership were doomed to fail from assembly. something wasn't put together right. they'll either fail sooner or later, but they WILL fail. none of this is would be attributed to break in, or lack thereof....
Now what polaris would tell you while trying to snake out of a warranty claim would be a different story.
I agree. Not wide open, not babying it, but cycle it through the regular rpm range........Short trips not letting the engine warm fully attribute mostly to this. but low load, excessive idling, and babying your machine also don't help.
Get your machine, drive it a half hour warming it up good check all your fluids again, and then drive it the way YOU WILL USE IT.
what would be the top speed and rpm's that are safe in low gear?
have to say i love this machine....
have to say i love this machine....
I'm definitely in the drive it like your going to use it camp. I don't hesitate to run them a bit hard when there new. I'm not saying to beat on them but run them in a full range of rpms and speeds.
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