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Discussion Starter #21
I took it to autozone and Oreillys(it is the original battery).
Both places tested it good.

Even with a 200amp engine starter on it it still wouldn't pulse the injectors while cranking.

And, I installed a different battery(car battery) to rule out the battery being the issue.
 

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If your battery has never been replaced you lose very little by going ahead and replacing it . If it solves your problem, it was an easy fix, if not it's still cheap insurance. A 3 year old factory battery is getting long in the tooth. In addition you may end up saving your charging system. A bad battery puts a constant drain on the charging system, robbing engine power because it consumes some power to charge the battery, possibly overheating the stator coils or voltage regulation system. There is NO ECOMONY in trying to make an old battery do the job.

Note, somehow I missed the part where you said you said you replaced the battery with a car battery before I wrote the above post. If replacing the battery didn't fix the problem something else is going on. Perhaps the ECU has given up the ghost. Before I changed that out I would check every connection in the system, cleaning, checking for broken wires. If you have a friend with the same machine you could exchange ECUs and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, so, I replace the battery, still have the same issue.

What else is there to check?

Ive had people tell me pcm, TPS, clogged spark arrester, etc.

I'm not one one to just throw parts at it until I figure out the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I will see if I can swap the PCM.

It just baffles me that at cranking there is no pulse, but, if I ground the injectors just for a brief second(just enough to fire the injectors) go to start it up, it runs great and has great injector pulse.
 

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yeah, sure, ok Av, good luck......:icon_frown:
 

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Just spitballing here but what about the motor ground, since it's isolated in rubber it should have a grounding wire/strap somewhere and I don't have a manual for my 900 yet to trace it down. Be an easy try to run a separate ground from the battery.
 

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Kind of a long shot but at this point, what can it hurt! Since you are not getting a ground at startup, that might suggest two things, either your ECU (as mentioned above) is not sending a good ground signal to your injectors or your main ground is marginal. Not sure of what magic happens inside the ECU, but I believe the injectors are fired by completing a pulsed ground from the ECU. If that is the case, the ECU might be flaky or one (or more) of the pins are not making good contact. I know you examined and cleaned your ECU connections, but it may be worth your while to do it again-- with a strong light and a magnifying glass!

Another long shot possibility is that your main ground is flaky--a fairly common problem! Might want to trace your negative lead off the battery to the chassis ground and clean and polish the heck out of it, reconnect it, torque it down, and try again. If you have added any electrical accessories, disconnect (not just turn them off) them while you're tracking down this problem, especially your back up beeper circuit if you have used it for reverse lights--and, of course, examine, clean, and dielectric every other connection you can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have ran seperate grounds from engine to chasis and PCM to chasis to rule out a factory ground issue.
You are correct, the pcm switches ground to pulse the injectors.

I called Polaris yesterday and they said to check the ignition switch.
I guess they are starting to see the same issues now and that is the culprit.

I will check and get back with my findings.
 

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Nothing prevents you from jumping the ignition switch to take it out of the circuit. It's process of elimination at this point but at least you aren't buying parts and throwing money at it yet. Believe it or not, connections can "look" clean but still have enough resistance to prevent current flow. As Forde says, check all your connections very closely. Electronic components lie the ECu can do weird things. A great many years ago I had an electronic ignition which I installed on my 1970 340 Duster. The dual point Mallory just wasn't cutting it and saturating the coil well enough at high RPM. Electronic ignitions were pretty new at this point and at first this one worked great. Then it got so the engine wouldn't start when cranked. However, if I shorted the wires to the ignition to ground it would fire right up. It was something internal in the ignition, I never found out what it was. I wasn't an electronic guru then nor am I now. What ever it was, bad capacitor, resistor, who knows, shorting to ground made it work until I shut it off and the problem would occur again.
Yeah, it's anecdotal and it was a long time ago, but it does demonstrate that odd things can occur with electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Exactly.

Going to go thru it's harness and make sure all wires and positions make the correct contacts.

A lot of the ford ignition switches would do the same thing this is doing.

They would physically fall apart and loose contact.

Just wasn't thinking the ignition switch in these controlled as much as they supposedly do.
 

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If you want to try to bypass the switch, this may help;

key switch.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #35
UPDATE:
Ignition switch has continuity at the specified key placements per the manual.

I EVEN BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY.....STILL NO PULSE AT CRANKING!!!

I have found that if I pull one spark plug(wasn't fully thinking) and try to see if I get pulse, it actually starts!

So I pull both spark plugs and injector connectors and stick noid lights in them and I have great pulse.


So, looks like I'm replacing the starter and one way clutch.
 

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Finally got a decent battery in there :).............. Ideally if you could borrow a known working ECM and try it...Butt yeah,those weak batteries will kill a perfectly good starter every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I guess so.

New battery does the same as the old battery.

Still didn't fix my issue.

I don't see how two places load tested it incorrectly after I had them test it per the service manual specs.
 

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Update:
The one way bearing was the issue.

Pulled it apart and the retaining spring was broken.
Replaced with a new one and it started right up....on the ORIGINAL battery.
Glad you have it fixed, but could you elaborate on this a little more.
I do not fully understand, maybe I missed something in the thread.
 
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