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A-arm bushings?

1678 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  POS POLARIS
I'm doing a suspension rebuild and was surprised that only the outer rear bushings are bad. Now a lot of guy's have added grease zerks but IMO that only helps keep the water out and sleeve from rusting, grease does not get where it needs to, my solution is to drill the bolt and sleeve but don't think I will keep this 700 long enough to justify the time spent. The problem I see is the bushing turning in the hub, right now, and I'm looking for input on this, is to use Loctite retaining compound to lock it in the hub so it has to spin on the sleeve and wear out the cheap parts.
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The way it's designed is like this.-

The A-arm bushings are "supposed" to stay locked into the housing they're inserted into. The bushings are designed to rotate on the sleeve. The sleeve is held from moving because it's clamped by the bolt. (or it should be)

Too many times I've take these things apart usually the first time since new, and find that the bolt has egg shaped my A arm holes, and the bolt is worn because the sleeve was rotating on the bolt instead of the bushing. This is all caused by the bolt not being tight enough. Just because they have lock washers doesn't mean that they don't need to be VERY tight.

The bushing turning in the hub is a common problem. The best fix I've found is to get some 5 minute epoxy, put it on the outside of the bushings before you insert them then slide them in and put a clamp on them so they stay put for 10 minutes or so. Granted you'll never be able to get those bushing out again, but since you're already faced with a worn out hub assembly, it's not that big of a deal. I've done this on a couple rangers and it works WELL. You don't need to drill the sleeve for grease. all you need to do is drill the aluminum hub assembly in the center between the two bushings (2 zerks per wheel). and put in a 45 or 90 degree grease fitting. granted you'll have to remove the rear wheels to grease them ,but doing that once every hundred hours or so isn't too big of a deal. Drilling just the housing allows the grease between the sleeve and the bushing. right where it needs to be. you dont need grease inside the sleeve...

If I had it to do all over again when I rebuilt the suspensions on these 3 800s, I'd still have installed grease zerks, but instead of going with the garbage polaris golf cart bushing/sleeve setup, I would have bought the kits that All Balls Racing sells. They use an actual bearing in place of the bushings. The cost isn't much different, and I imagine the bearing would last forever especially if grease zerks were installed.

Good luck!
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Thanks POS, the Loctite I mentioned will do the same as epoxy but I should be able to take apart if needed. I intended to drill halfway into the bolt, cross drill then cross drill the sleeve under the bushing but right now it looks like we will trade for a 900 after this spray season so I just don't want to waste my time for 1000 road miles, a good quality never-seize should take care of that.
I wouldn't cross drill the bolt.

They're not that big as is, and it would be tough to drill that far and keep the hole centered. It's much easier just to drill the housing, tap, and install a zerk. plus there's no strength lost.
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