First I installed a set of LEDs I got from FormulaJ87 off eBay. I’ve bought a ton of stuff from this guy(or gal) and shipping is always fast and product quality has been great. The difference from the factory Halogen bulbs is amazing. Ordered 3 more sets for the friends rides since then. When installing the bulbs they are indexed by removing a small retaining screw and rotating the assembly to make sure reflection from the housing is proper. The bulb assembly needs to be vertical with the led rows facing in the proper order. Try the high beams before buttoning them up and if it doesn’t put light higher you likely have to rotate them 180 degrees to be corrected. Reinstall the setscrew, plug em in and you’re done.

I installed a Viper Elite 5000lb winch and wireless remote. I ordered it off eBay and it came with the wiring for the standard 900xp. One call to Motoalliance and they overnighted me the proper length primary wires for the Crew at no charge. Great customer service there.

Then I wanted to make sure I didn’t outrun my headlights(need to watch for moose on the trails) so I wired in a set of 4” ANZO HID pod lights to a relay triggered by my high beams. Used KC mounts that are polymer, have since found a set of aluminum that a friend used installing the same lights and I may go that route should I bust these.

Next step was the music. I opted to go the budget route(with quality products). I can’t believe what the factory stuff prices at, do people actually pay that? After some research I chose not go with a head unit and to exclusively use a Bluetooth amplifier and speakers. I decided on the Kenwood KAC-M1824BT 400 Watts Class D Marine Amplifier as the reviews were great and it was compact enough for me to mount about anywhere and I could bridge it to run only 2 channels (sets of wires) to the roof instead of 4. I didn’t find out until after the installation that my expansion plans were jeopardized by going this route since this amps RCA outputs are only pass thrus from the input RCA. The Bluetooth won’t feed the RCA outputs like I hoped for adding subs, at least that’s how I read it in the manual. I also ran a Boss Audio auxiliary port that I mounted in the glove box. It has a USB port for charging phones off the amp and an aux plug that connects to the RCA inputs. This may be the way I end up playing music in the future should I go with an additional amp to power subs. Just sucks that the Bluetooth doesn’t feed the RCA out of the Kenwood, I didn’t research that well enough for this configuration but the Boss Audio port may save the setup while allowing for expansion.

For speakers I chose to start with 2 pair of Infinity 622M 2 way speakers which I run in a parallel configuration (dropping them to 2ohm on each channel which the amplifier is capable of running). For mounting of the speakers I wanted the sound to be up high (where our ears are) so I didn’t like the idea of the pods near my knees. I did not want to put holes in my roof so I opted to configure some vacuum formed ABS pods I got from Diablo Royale Customs for the job. I used an old wooden road sign for the bases of the rear pods and screwed through the vertical roof ribs to mount them without fear of leaks.

As seen above on the front pod and in the middle of the rear, I ordered some cheap COB led lights to use for the interior(they’re almost too bright). Ran a positive wire for the dome lights to the OTRATTW switch and grounded them to the ROPS. While I was at it I also ran a spare wire for future accessories along with the speaker wires. It should save me time and trouble in the future for some other ideas I’ve been brainstorming about. Installed one of the COB LED bars in red to illuminate the under box area of the rear to assist with the trailer hitch or tow strap hookup.

Next I installed the MMA 2.5” bracket lift to get some more clearance for this Crew’s long wheelbase. I was undecided on tire/wheel configuration at first but knew the worn out stock rubber had to go when I made the purchase. The installation was simple and straight forward. I left the shocks in the inside upper positions to keep the shock angle(ride quality) closer to factory. Shock upgrades are in the plans, might be looking to go with an onboard compressor(which I have left over from a prior project) and shockwaves at all 4 corners. That will be a functional upgrade to change the ride height and firmness based on terrain.

 

After reading the posts on this forum about reverse lights I liked the flush look. So I went with the Eagle Eye install(4) on the back of the box. Wiring the relay to the factory reverse wires was relatively easy, however I relocated it to the center rear under seat storage for convenience and hoping to have it a little more protected from the elements. I made sure to install quick disconnect sockets near where the factory taillight plug was in the event I ever need to remove the box. Knowing the group I typically ride with and the various times we break trail through the tag alders, a rear bumper was a requirement. I found a rear bumper from Wild Boar for a decent price that had some cheap flush mount led lights already mounted in it. I figured the additional light in the rear would be welcomed, especially at night when trying to find our trails through the trees(we don’t get lost, we just take the road less travelled and at times don’t know where the heck we are). Wired the bumper lights to the same reverse relay, it had lots of power to spare as the 4 Eagle Eyes were relatively efficient. The lights in this bumper seem okay, but may upgrade to something brand name in the future.

I found the homemade lock and ride instructions and made 5 of them for tie downs on the box rails and 4 to hold my toolbox in. I went with the full Profile toolbox since I didn’t care for the wasted space under the corners of the low-pro model. It only hangs over about 1.5” on each side, less than the door hinges do. Will see how long before I bend those or the toolbox. Had a cargo net from a Tahoe that I placed over the box between the homemade lock and ride mounts for when we throw stuff on top of the cooler.

 

I really have too much stuff sitting around, but I make it useful at times. Took an old trunk net from a Cadillac I had and installed it as an additional storage option in the back seat for the misc. gloves, hats, light jackets, etc. that we are bound to throw in here. Fit perfectly and used a wire loom and Polaris body clip to hold the center so it doesn’t droop, needed to drill the loom out to 3/8” to get the clip to insert fully.

Made some small mud blockers for the rear after seeing the mud my bud had on his battery in his. Just cut up some 1/16” ABS sheets I had for now but I have a few tailgate mats I may use for better coverage.

Wanting to test the heat output I took it for a ride and man was I surprised at the wind coming through the holes in the dash and the cup holder area. Next step was a cab seal kit. Made most of my components for the cab seal kit out of old memory foam pillows we had in the closet (wonder how long until the wife notices they’re gone?). I first made cardboard patterns fashioned around what I saw in the Cab Seal installation video Polaris posted on YouTube. I used some mechanics floor cushion from the shop to make wind barriers in the cup holder openings in the dash. And Gorilla tape to seal some small holes around the ROPS, used some of that as well as the ROPS seal tape from Polaris(1/8 thick x 1.25” wide neoprene tape). Me dealer had a ‘spare’ Crew seal kit so I picked that up cheap(free, but I’ve dropped some coin there so is it really free?) to do the rear portion of the cab and console.

I used some indoor outdoor carpet to attempt to control sound from behind the rear seat, also added some reflective firewall insulation behind the rear panel. I don’t know how much it truly made in terms of sound reduction, but it made me feel better.

I planned on running an ECM tune so as to not feel like I was being governed when the computer throttled back the motor at speed. Wheel and tire selection actually became MUCH more involved than it probably needed to be. I studied this forum for size recommendations and fitment issues then moved on to rotational inertia / mass formulas and impacts of wheel/tire weight on performance. I didn’t want to create a longer turn radius(it’s about the same as a battleship already) on this crew by adding forward arms so I limited my tire size to true 29” at most. I found the Maxxis Carnivore to be suitable for the various terrain I ride and the 29x9.5R15 8 ply was my best choice from a weight perspective. Since this tire size and PLY combination was only available in 15” wheel size I looked into available wheels, compared their mass and found the MSA Diesel in 15”(4+3) to be about the strongest and least amount of weight. From stock I only added about 4.2 pounds per wheel/tire going to this setup. The equivalent impact on performance of this setup is like adding about 31 pounds of weight to a stock machine.

I had some rubbing and with the help of a 20 ton Porta-Power and a MAPP gas torch I was able to manipulate the inner fender enough to have full clearance and full turn from lock/lock. This isn’t a job for the rookie, you need to understand how and where to apply the heat to get the material to do what you want it to. I took my time and having worked in collision repair for many years I treated it like thin sheet metal and manipulated it accordingly. I used an air nozzle to cool the plastics once they were where I needed them to stay, maintaining the stretch and only exhibiting slight elasticity when removing the force on the ram. The best part about this is that I was able to clear the tires through full suspension range and didn’t have rubbing on the bumper associated with the big tires and forward arms, not to mention I maintained the factory turn radius.

For fun factor and purely to differentiate our Ranger from the rest of the group, I installed the updated scoop hood and a few red LED lights as accents. Ran some COB LEDs above the headlight assemblies to give a “demon eye” look and a few strips of 5630 LEDs, a 20” strip above the radiator and 2 15’ strips throughout the undercarriage. I have some UV LED strips that I’ll mount to the interior for fun factor and run my strobes under each wheel.

 

While researching ECM tunes I spoke with a number of people including one friend who talks with Polaris engineers frequently(Factory Race Team for oval racing snowmobiles). He let me know that the “off-road” guys at Polaris said there is a lot left in these motors from the factory. So I went about talking with the aftermarket “guys that actually write the tunes” (not just the tuners who install other peoples flash programs) to get insight into their methodology. I was pleasantly surprised that my final decision was the least expensive route(highly unusual). It really came down to my request for a program that was designed on an engine dynamometer, not a chassis dyno. I want to know what is happening before the CVT since I’m going to be doing my own clutch work and may re-gear at some point in the future. I have a few boxes of leftover clutch parts from years past that I might as well play with, as well as a set of Team Rooster weights that give me a number of CVT refining options. This is still ongoing, stock clutching with the tune had me about 5-600rpm lower than I needed to be with the new rubber. I don’t like lag when backshifting(off throttle, then back on) so I ordered the Team Tied for the 2015 Browning edition with EBS. Shiftout should be better and backshifting should be superb. The EBS notch in the Helix may have me changing it out I the future but I want to have it reduce brake fade when I hit a downhill or drive it like a wild teenager. I’ll update what I end up using for final clutching when I get the time to put some testing in.

Nighttime vision issues associated with being out in the middle of nowhere are typically resolved by my wearing a headlamp at all times. For some odd reason the wife doesn’t find wearing one as fashionable, and I always get ‘the look’ when I have one on and we go out in public. To assist her in finding the door handles and latches on the rear storage box at night, while respecting her quest to be stylish(even while dirtied up from head to toe), I used some phosphorescent glow on tape I had in sheet form to illuminate the handles slightly. This stuff works great and is visible for a few hours after being exposed to a light source.

Sometimes it’s the little things that make the biggest difference. If you have any ideas or anything additional that you’ve found useful in your Ranger ownership, please drop a note below – I’d love to know about it.

having a problem with pictures on that last post, stay tuned as I get it straightened out...

 

Love the Ranger! My favorite add on you've done is actually the cargo net haha, brilliant!

 

Congratulations. You took a heck of a deal and turned it into a first rate ride. Good Job.

 

Well done! Will be looking forward to more coming out of the Frozen North!

 

I got plenty more coming my friend. Few more projects in the mix. My UPS and FedEx guys are getting pretty familiar.

Is there a limit to the data size of a single post? I'm having upload failures and having pictures not post.

And for guys looking at backup cameras, the 7" screen LCD over mirror monitors fit perfect in the ROPS in front of the driver. Ran a backup camera down below and rear view camera up top. Uses high camera angle when not in reverse, then switches to a night vision low angle camera when put into reverse.

 

Great idea on the two cameras with the single display! Does the switching happen automatically when you go into reverse or do you have select which camera you want manually? Yes, there a 'max' size for the posts. You can get a bit more in a single post by resizing your pics first, but having multiple posts is no big deal!

 

Yes, there a 'max' size for the posts. You can get a bit more in a single post by resizing your pics first, but having multiple posts is no big deal!

Thanks for the heads up on the post size, I'll just add til the upload fails and start a new post. Much appreciated!

 

Can I ask who flashed your ecm and how you like it?

 

I went with Terry Gilomen at Gilomen Innovations. He's extremely knowledgeable and he and his family have close ties with Polaris. They've been building Bosch based ECM efi race engines for snowcross teams for years. He uses an engine dyno and while I don't have much time into getting the clutching dialed in I am very pleased with the tune. I got a spare ECM from my dealer and sent it to him to program. Thus keeping my stock one to throw in should I need to.

The only issue I had was that the ECM I had was using an older program from Polaris that allowed trigger from the ECM to accessories with key on and the newer program he wrote has the ECM trigger to accessories once running. He offered to redo it if I wanted but I don't think it's necessary. Anything I have to the keyed power I have no need to run it with engine off. Just an observation of mine. But from a performance perspective, it's the best money I've spent.

 

Well, had a chance to work on the ranger this weekend but instead called a few friends to go for a ride.

So the only update I have is that there's going to be new arched arms ordered as I got hung up in what should have been an easy water hole.

 

Updated links.

Wondering if anyone has used the Riptide brake rotors/pads. Search turned up nothing and I want to upgrade my brakes when I do my shocks. Any input would be appreciated.

 

Looks amazing!!!

 

Took a trip with some friends into northern Ontario over the last week and had a great run until the 2nd to last day when the washouts got the better of my operating ability. While trying to keep pace with the RZR turbos who were with us I managed to find some weaknesses in the Ranger platform, namely the stock shocks and springs. I'll give it kudos though, it was pretty tough considering we had at least 1300#'s of rider/gear on board.

I decided that losing the rear shock seals is sufficient reason to violate the RPT(Ranger Parts Treaty) between the Mrs. and I. Subsequently, ordered up the Elka stage 2 from iShock as replacements. Should be here in a few weeks, will install my RipTide rotors/pads at the same time. Hopefully I get some trail time in before mother nature makes me throw the tracks on. While I'm getting the winter itch I decided to update the stock battery and ordered the revered Odyssey PC1200LMJT to see if it lives up to the hype. Will update on both once installed and tested.

 

Well the Elka's showed up today so I have my evening planned. They sure look good in the box, hopefully they perform as well as they look. Here's the spring rates for the setup:

Front Shocks:

Rear shocks:

 

Jealous. That's all I can say about that.

 

Well I got some time to get the shocks installed. Passed on the brakes for now as I'm short on free time and wanted to get these in. I was surprised that after comparing them on the ground prior to the install they were very close in length to the stockers but once installed I gained a fair amount of height. Wasn't concerned about the bucket test, but I cleared it.
Have a big ride Saturday, will report with my impression of the new shocks afterward.

 

All I can say again is jealous. LOL Looks killer thanks for the update.

 

Don't be jealous, they'll make more for you if you ask. :-D

And thanks, looking forward to trying them out. Going to run with sway bar and without. Will keep you posted...

 

I have to smile while thinking about my impressions of the Elka shocks after running about 100 miles this past weekend. First ride with these Elka stage 2's took me through forest roads and hunting trails.

I am really impressed with the Elka calibrations out of the box. The way it rode through the tougher stuff even made my Mrs comment about how much better the ride was (which garnered a permanent repeal of our RPT- Ranger Parts Treaty).

We ran consistently about 10mph faster through the rocky stuff because it just soaked up the terrain. The friends we rode with (who were on RZRs and Generals) even commented that they had never seen a Ranger Crew drive through tree root and rock covered trails that fast before. The crazy part about that was that I didn't feel like we were pushing that hard in the Elka equipped ranger. It seemed more casual for us because of the dramatic improvement in the ride quality. The Stage 2 Elka's soaked up the bumps at slow speeds just as well as at high speed.

Prior to ordering from iShock it took me some time to figure out what the total weight was that I added to the base machine for our typical riding, while also considering future add-ons. Darren at iShock was great in taking the time to talk thoroughly with me about how I ride, our terrain, and all the changes to my machine from stock. He also did a great job of relaying what to expect with the different Stage choices in both adjustability and user interface.

I did a bit of "soul searching" and concluded that although I would like to have the ability to control high and low speed compression the likelihood of my ever adjusting them after the novelty wore off was slim. This conclusion enabled me to forego the additional $1000 expense for the Stage 5 and after initial regrets, now that I rode these Stage 2, I am glad I went this route. For me, I just don't think the added cost would've made the riding experience an additional $1,000 better for me. The change over stock was already very dramatic.

Currently I'm running with the sway bar intact, will remove and run again at some point but the seasons are changing and it may be time for installing the tracks here shortly.

The $1300 question is whether these Stage 2 Elka shocks are really worth it as a shock upgrade. While it's completely subjective, when considering I was torn over whether I should order the stage 5 or 2, it's easy for me to answer- It is Absolutely worth the cost.

 

Anyone else have Ranger projects for this weekend? Making my list as I make the 4.5hr trek back home:
1.) Install glass tip out windshield to replace my poly unit
2.) Rewire all my electrical components as winter is approaching and I want the fuses all in an orderly fashion (adding BlueSea fusebox and relay to replace my inline fuse links)
3.) Add roof strobes and control box
4.) Install sound deadening material (closed cell neoprene foam) and roof headliner
5.) Make new battery tray liner so the Odyssey battery is more secure
6.) Install in-cab CVT air intake for track setup
7.) Rework backup monitor wiring and routing with secondary display for passenger side

Still trying to decide which Full Skid Plate to go with. While I like the Trail Armor reviews I think I want something with less holes in it. My primary concern is that I don't want it to fill with snow. Any input on that would be appreciated...

 

Still trying to decide which Full Skid Plate to go with. While I like the Trail Armor reviews but I think I want something with less holes in it. My primary concern is that I don't want it to fill with snow. Any input on that would be appreciated...

Might want to check out SSS Off Road. Their's have almost no holes. Always wondered why they didn't, but I can see the benefit if you do ride in a lot of snow!
http://www.prcforum.com/forum/207-s...207-sss-off-road/60269-ranger-900-900-crew-100-uhwm-skid-plates-arm-guards.html

 

I had little ambition after being on the road most of the day so all I managed to get done this evening was to install the strobes. Picked them up on eBay and so far I'm pretty impressed with the brightness. I made a short video of where I mounted them and the 3 different strobe modes.

Polaris Ranger Crew Strobe setup for winter use:

 

Those are sweet. Do they have red and blue?

They sure do, get you a link shortly.

 

Every year a bud of mine puts together a benefit ride for veterans day. Our 'club' raises funds for the local VFW to help cover the many costs associated with assisting those in the area that served. Had a great ride, snowed all day got about a foot total. So it was time to throw the tracks on.

 

Didn't post this earlier, but I added a StreetGlow EL shift knob that had stitched in fiber optic with red lighting. It is much easier to find the shifter after dark. Works well and I'm pretty impressed with how it does not really reflect off the windshield.

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Unfortunately it is not. Purely monotone, and it seems they are no longer produced as everything available is NOS. That would be great though!

 

Had a couple of 7" led bars sitting around so I decided this morning's project was to get some light to the wildlife when we were trail riding. Fortunately the big ugly yet functional Polaris brush guard serves well as a light mount.

Here's a couple of pictures:

And I made a short video to show how I setup the glove box light, there were a few questions on that mod.
Glove box and alley lights: