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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
And..... go.


Hope this wasn’t misleading, it’s actually what I’ve been trying to find out. Through purely superficial research it seems there are minor differences. Material: often the same 4340 or something or other. Thickness: yes, thicker than stock. CV joints: gets a little trickier.

Reading a few things about heat treated parts and double heat treated parts. “10% larger than stock”. 6 bearing vs 8 bearing.

The reason for my post is this. FINALLY got 36 hours of alone time at the ranch this weekend and got to really get after it. Ride as it currently sits: OutKast Fabworx “full lift” (can’t remember at this point) but acrhed/forward A arms, 30” Tensor Regulators, Bandit shocks (entry level but) tuned to my riding style. Duraclutch but no other engine tuning. And lastly, 3.75 Rhino axles. Meaning, one ain’t so good anymore.

I wouldn’t consider my setup “big lift” but the new shocks added more height than I was expecting. Last short ride I thought I could hear a front axle binding up a little. When I popped the shocks in I was rushing. Realized after they are all mounted to the outer holes. Still haven’t switched that to the inner and double check the perch heights.

I was dragging logs in reverse over some washed out culverts, on a turn. The front would get REAL hard to turn backing up under load so I tried take it easy, on the turns. After I finished working for the morning I went to the backside of the ranch to check other trails. After a pause I put it back in 2 wheel to get out of a basin. Nothing. Vvvrrrooom. Nowhere. I looked and the CV exploded. But still holding the axle where an axle should be. Put it in 4wheel low and limped home for an hour or so. My time was up so I didn’t even have a chance to lift it and really check things out. Because my time is often limited I am researching axle replacements. It’ll be much easier to swap an axle than rebuild a CV.

So here I am. Rhino 2.0’s? Turner’s really worth the $$$ ?

My application is, enhanced workhorse. I need the height for clearing and building trails. I don’t always drive slowly while doing that but this rig never sees North of 30mph. It also could end up loaded 6 full size passengers and whatever you can cram in the tiny bed. Seems to me what I really need is size and strength of CV joint bearing. Large range of motion and strength at high torque. I’m not going to be jumping it (intentionally) and it pretty much hits my limits at 20mph corners. So I think practically ANY aftermarket axle would have good enough strength at the axle but what about those pesky bearings... Also considering limiting straps (I know, I should’ve done more than consider them, correct) but after $1200 in shocks I thought I’d be ok.

So, please weigh in.
E1387297-B1A8-4D6C-8038-6025488B5AE3.jpeg
 

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Have read where the angles on the oem cv are limited. Also that the axles serve as a sheer point as opposed to a very expensive failure up the line. Not sure it helps, but something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciated. Because I didn’t get the chance to pull it apart, I am HOPING it really is only the CV. Appeared that way.
 

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This is not something that I believe you will find.
A lot of variables with no definitive information. Mostly statements of Emotion.
I have never read a thread or post about axles that ever contained good technical information on said axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Love to hear from any

Rhino
Rhino 2.0
Gorilla
Titan
Turner’s
RCV
Slasher
Sixity

Owners

Leaning toward the 2.0’s primarily because of the larger CV documentation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well Toxic, I was hoping the discussion might help compile such a list. But apparently it is not that interesting a topic. Guess I’ll try the Rhino 2.0’s
 

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Well Toxic, I was hoping the discussion might help compile such a list. But apparently it is not that interesting a topic. Guess I’ll try the Rhino 2.0’s
Jake,
As I stated, I have never seen any technical information on axles, most of what you see is based on emotion.
You hear the same thing regurgitated over and over without any quality information to back it up.
And I would not say that it’s not interesting,
With all of the different brands it will be hard to compile a list.
 

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Jake,
As I stated, I have never seen any technical information on axles, most of what you see is based on emotion.
You hear the same thing regurgitated over and over without any quality information to back it up.
Yep, and a little info is better than none. I appreciate any replies I get. I prefer to bounce ideas back and forth, as opposed to my wife!
 

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"Yep, and a little info is better than none. I appreciate any replies I get. "
Yeah Nit, tell us about those FAKE zerks you supposedly installed in your 2WD a-arms again........I just LOVE made up Libtardy stuff...........Hey ranger.net emailed, they want you back over there all to themselves....I said " well, OK!"..........
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I guess the most important issue for me is maximum degree of angle at CV(‘s). Any axle is plenty strong for my use and any upgrade will likely never break. But I’m definitely tweaking the CV. Also thinking maybe it’s limited strap time. Anybody have a compelling story about their CV angles?
 

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I find it hard to believe that cv's don't have the angle specs. Some here have posted about exact replacements bought at big box auto stores with a lifetime guarantee. Don't know years or models. Search around on your model forum.
 

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The higher you go the more likely you are to bust stuff. Just like with a jeep CJ. With 30" tires and lift something bound to break. I have Rhino axles and they are a lot beefer then stock. But I drive like granny. If you spend $1500. bucks on axles and the axle doesn't break what its connected to probley will. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Exact what I want to avoid Stainless. I fully understand the downward direction of upgrades and have “tried” to keep my mods relatively tame. I’ll try out the 2.0’s and snap some pics or video of the differences. Leaving the fronts until they go. It’s already got the gravel mixer sound in 4W at the front end. Guessing that’s the dreaded prop shaft balance and/or weak gear in the front trans. Really wish I had a proper shop up there and the time to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just to keep up to date. Went ahead with the All Balls HD 8-ball axles. Decent enough price and a me I’ve trusted so far. Did a quick side by side with the Rhino (1.0) I removed. Size and weight pretty close. For having 8 balls instead of 6 in the CV it didn’t appear that much bigger or heavier. Also, they’re pre-packed, but it sounded a little dry when I checked the joint flex. Compared to the articulation of the Rhino it also seemed about the same.
 
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