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Discussion Starter #1
Was going to ride yesterday afternoon but my battery was dead as a hammer. I just figured I left something on so I charged it up overnight. Cranked right up this afternoon no problem. I reset the clock a ride to my next door neighbors house. Came back out and it started fine but the clock was 12:00 again so I set it again and went home. I cut it off and turned key back on but not started,and clock is 12:00 again and I can hear a high pitched alarm, not very loud though. I cut the key back off and alarm keeps going for a minute or so. Then I notice the turf mode back light is still lit with the key off.

Any ideas what to look for. I’m covered under warranty but I’d rather not take it in if possible.





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Could be as simple as a bad battery or something with the wire loom is bad and shorting to ground and sucking the juice
I would first disconnect and charge the battery and after its topped off let it sit for 12-24 hours and then check the voltage. Should be at least 12 .5 . This is at least a simple to do item to start your search.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bad battery wouldn’t make the turf mode back light stay on.


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Bad battery wouldn’t make the turf mode back light stay on.


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It sure shouldn't IMHO but anything that is now connected to a computer that needs a good clean stable power source kinda makes that battery a very important link.
There was a thread last week where the wiring was being eaten by rodents so your new ride has possibly become a rolling buffet so start looking for signs of a invasion. Droppings are a first signal.
 

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T, make sure the terminals are clean and have the battery load tested. My turf mode light stays on after the key has ben cycled. Always has, just dimmer than with the key on. Power draining back out of the system, not the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
T, make sure the terminals are clean and have the battery load tested. My turf mode light stays on after the key has ben cycled. Always has, just dimmer than with the key on. Power draining back out of the system, not the battery.
That’s what it’s doing , it’s dimmer but still on.

Why would the clock not hold its setting?


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Probably a bad cell or short in the battery. Possibly corroded connections. When you crank it over its drawing the amps down too low and resetting the clock. Clean the connections, charge the battery and take it to local auto parts store and have it load tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Probably a bad cell or short in the battery. Possibly corroded connections. When you crank it over its drawing the amps down too low and resetting the clock. Clean the connections, charge the battery and take it to local auto parts store and have it load tested.
Battery is fine. Connection is good. It’s only a month old. Holding 13.7 volts. The clock resets to 12:00 every time I cut the machine off. When I turn the key back on without cranking , the clock is already 12:00.

I just went over everything again. All fuses are good, battery connections couldn’t be better.

This is a brand new machine. It’s one month old and never been off road. It’s clean other than a little dust.


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Have you added any accessories after delivery? Some thing that is constant power instead of using a relay .
Just thinking>
What is the ride?
 

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13.7 is what its charging at i believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My charger says it has 13.7 in the battery. Cluster says 14. something when running.

The battery drain problem isn’t a problem anymore. I probably left the radio on or something. After I recharged the battery it hasn’t dropped a bit.

The problem now is the clock is resetting , this is not a battery problem.


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Discussion Starter #13
I disconnected the negative side of the battery to try a reset. I’ll try it again in a bit a see what happens.

Seems this is a common problem on the Generals and RZRs.


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Hopefully not, but a slow short could easily show back up again if you hit the right bump. A wiser mechanic told me the best way to find one is to disconnect the negative terminal and lead, put a test light in series. If it lights, you have a short. Then start pulling fuses till the light goes out, narrowing down the location of such. Mind you, this was before all these computer module thing's.
 

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Hopefully not, but a slow short could easily show back up again if you hit the right bump. A wiser mechanic told me the best way to find one is to disconnect the negative terminal and lead, put a test light in series. If it lights, you have a short. Then start pulling fuses till the light goes out, narrowing down the location of such. Mind you, this was before all these computer module thing's.
The problem with that method is that if you have an accessory, say a clock, that requires current all the time, your test light will light. In addition, some charging systems (automotive) with the voltage regulator built into the alternator will always show a current draw. I believe the mid 1980's GM products were like that (if memory serves me).

You could still use that method but you need to remove the fuse from the circuit that runs the accessory or disconnect the alternator to eliminate the inherent continual draws, then perform your test. Unfortunately, you can't include the eliminated circuits in the test so if the problem lies there you miss it.
 
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