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Brake line clocking.

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  8Dogman 
#1 ·
Has anyone here had to change or replace their brake line(s) and have difficulty with the whole “clocking” procedure with the banjo fittings going to the master cyclindrr?? Do they really have to be clocked exactly to what the service manual says? I find it damn near impossible to get it anywhere near close.
 
#6 ·
If they use a normal banjo bolt then I would think that something close to the above diagram would be just fine. I assume that the reason for the "clocking" would be to eliminate stress on the lines by having them in a certain orientation.
 
#7 ·
The only reason I can think of is to align the oil ports. But the banjo fitting has a channel that runs all the way around inside of it, so in theory it should be able to pass fluid through at any angle. It’s odd too that the banjo fittings that go on the caliper don’t have to be clocked. The only way I can think of to do this right is remove the master cylinder and mark the bolt where the ports are, and clock it outside of the machine, then reinstall it.
 
#12 ·
I believe the reason for "clocking" has to do with two issues. First, if the lines don't point in the proper direction they may become stressed or kinked and damaged when the front wheels are turned to full lock or as suspension moves throughout it's full range of travel. Second, to assist with brake bleeding. Consider that brake fluid will interact with air like any other liquid; air will move to the high point and try to stay there. What this means is that if the banjo fittings point in a direction so that the brake lines form a "U" shape, either up or down like a trap in the drain under your sink, air will become trapped at the highest points making bleeding difficult if not impossible.



What it comes down to is that banjo fitting should be placed in a position that allows free movement of the lines with no kinking or sharp bends to prevent damage and with no points in the lines that are high or low where air could be trapped.

With regard to bleeding, I've found that using a vacuum source at the bleeder fittings and keeping the master cylinder full results in easier bleeding. With this method both gravity and atmospheric pressure assist with the process, however, it bears repeating that if there are any loops or "U" shaped bends in the lines there is no bleeding process that will be easy or effective.
 
#13 ·
I believe the reason for "clocking" has to do with two issues. First, if the lines don't point in the proper direction they may become stressed or kinked and damaged when the front wheels are turned to full lock or as suspension moves throughout it's full range of travel. Second, to assist with brake bleeding. Consider that brake fluid will interact with air like any other liquid; air will move to the high point and try to stay there. What this means is that if the banjo fittings point in a direction so that the brake lines form a "U" shape, either up or down like a trap in the drain under your sink, air will become trapped at the highest points making bleeding difficult if not impossible.



What it comes down to is that banjo fitting should be placed in a position that allows free movement of the lines with no kinking or sharp bends to prevent damage and with no points in the lines that are high or low where air could be trapped.

With regard to bleeding, I've found that using a vacuum source at the bleeder fittings and keeping the master cylinder full results in easier bleeding. With this method both gravity and atmospheric pressure assist with the process, however, it bears repeating that if there are any loops or "U" shaped bends in the lines there is no bleeding process that will be easy or effective.
I was a heavy equipment mechanic, welder, millwright, etc in my career and usually used a pressure bleeder which usually pushes the air out of the lines, but on one occasion on my own vehicle, the pressure bleeder didn't immediately push the air out because of the u-bends I had put in the line. I was changing from drum brakes to disc brakes and built my own air lines.and didn't pay attention to the configuration. My Father who was a mechanic for his entire life drove the truck and told me there was air in the lines. I disagreed so he bet me he could improve my brakes by pressure bleeding. I had already used the pressure bleeder so I thought my bet was safe. We hooked it up and started pushing out brake fluid into a container. After 5 minutes I laughed and told him he owed me. He told me to just sit there and watch. In a couple of more minutes the bleeder started spitting air. In a minute or so, more air came out. When we finally stopped it had been over 15 minutes and the catch container was almost full.

I didn't know what to say, I had been a mechanic for 15 years at that time. He just looked at me and said, "You can still learn a little bit from an old man!" My point is, if you have high places in your air lines it takes a lot longer to push the air our than you might imagine. Without vacuum or a pressure bleeder you may never get it out. My Father looked at my brake lines and knew how many places the air was trapped. The brakes worked fine afterward.
 
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