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Concerning a 2018 Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar. In order to start the unit, the brake pedal must be engaged. It has been progressively getting worse with the pressure needed on the brake pedal to start to the point that I have to mash VERY hard on the pedal to get the starter to engage. Is there an adjustment for this, if so could you please advise in detail any fix? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have the same issue. I need to ask someone to stand behind the ranger and see if the brake lights are coming on at the point where it isn’t starting or or only at the point where it will start. I think that there is a pressure switch and the brake switch.
If it is a simple switch that I can change out, I will just do that. I really don’t want to have to bleed the brakes.
 

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Been having this same issue with my '18 for about a year now. At first I just had to press a little harder but lately I've had to mash the brake pedal through the floor to get it to start.
Well, I finally got around to doing something about it! I looked up the part # for the brake switch and found it to be part # 4014262. I bought one off eBay and when it arrived I discovered they sent part # 4014225 instead. I emailed the seller and told them they sent me the wrong switch. They replied that the one they sent me has been substituted for the switch I have (they did not use the words "updated" or "superseded" to describe the one they sent me but rather "substituted" which I thought was interesting).

I did some more digging and discovered 4014225 has been used on a lot of machines up through '17 (both my cousin's '17 XP1000 and his friend's '17 HL list switch 4014225 on their parts listings). It is even listed on some newer models but most '18 & '19 XP1000 models get the 4014262 switch. Thinking about it some more I noticed the master cylinders have different part numbers for an XP1000 between '17 and '18 which caused me to think the switches may not be interchangeable. Since I could not find any specific info on the switches like banjo bolt length, dia, thread pitch, etc.) I decided to call the seller. eBay does not allow phone numbers in their listings but luckily this was a Polaris dealer out of KY that I was able to Google.

I spoke to the parts manager who did not have a clue as to what I was talking about so he passed me over to the service manager who politely said to me: "You will want to use the switch we sent you as it replaces the failing switch from the '18 & '19 models as it is a direct swap once you ignore the short pigtail". He also said that he gets about 8-10 '18-'19 Rangers a month in their shop that have this same complaint and that the "newer" (as he called it) 4014225 switch fixed the hard-start issue. I told him that 4014225 cannot possibly be the "newer" switch since it did not come on newer machines. I then told him that it sounds as if Polaris had a vendor change for that switch for the '18 MY and that the solution was to use the "older" (as I call it) switch 4014225. He basically agreed that reverting back to the "older" 4014225 switch solved all of the issues that the "newer" 4014262 switch created.

Once he told me to use the switch I received, I figured I would get it swapped out this weekend (today). Sure enough, he was right! The switch installed exactly the same as the original and after bleeding the brakes with the wife, you barely even have to press the brake pedal to get it to start! I don't think it was ever this easy to start even when new! Any of you still out there with this hard to start condition should consider changing out this switch.

Pics!

Original "New style" 4014262 on left, Replacement/substituted "Old style" 4014225 on right:
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All done! No leaks!
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The culprit:
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Two of the three rubber sealing washers tore when removing the original so I just decided to get three new ones. Luckily my local dealer had some in stock. Expensive little buggers at $5.99 each but hey, they worked! Part # for these is 5413212

[Edited 10/16/2020]: corrected the switch part numbers after paragraph 1 since there was a copy/paste error.
 
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Thanks for this information! I have a 2019 Northstar and feel like I have to mash the pedal pretty hard to get it to start sometimes. I've had a couple instances where I didn't think it was ever going to work... I'll be looking into this as soon as I get a chance.
 

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I’m having the same problem and going to try this fix. Where on the unit is this located? It’s hard to tell from the picture where it is. Is it u see the cargo box? Under driver seat? Any helps appreciated! Thanks
 

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Just starting having this issue with my 2018 at the 1,900 mile mark. Was going to post about it soon. Thanks for doing so.
 

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Thanks for this information! I have a 2019 Northstar and feel like I have to mash the pedal pretty hard to get it to start sometimes. I've had a couple instances where I didn't think it was ever going to work... I'll be looking into this as soon as I get a chance.
You're welcome! Glad it could be of use to others.

I’m having the same problem and going to try this fix. Where on the unit is this located? It’s hard to tell from the picture where it is. Is it u see the cargo box? Under driver seat? Any helps appreciated! Thanks
On brake master cylinder, front brake circuit port, just behind driver side front tire.

Just starting having this issue with my 2018 at the 1,900 mile mark. Was going to post about it soon. Thanks for doing so.
Post away! More pics and details are never a bad thing! Wow 1,900 miles! Mine was failing at just 500 miles. Should have taken it in under warranty before it got worse but it was easier to just fix it at home myself.
 

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Thanks so much for the info RangerMann. I found it and jumpered it....and......it started! Saved me a lot of time and money.
I called my local dealer and since the part is still under warranty they are sending me a replacement at no cost.
131635
 

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Thanks so much for the info RangerMann. I found it and jumpered it....and......it started! Saved me a lot of time and money.
I called my local dealer and since the part is still under warranty they are sending me a replacement at no cost.
Anytime! Attach a pic when you get it all back together. I presume they will send you the "old" style switch like they did for me.
 

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I dropped my ranger off at the dealer today to replace this sensor. Starting has been a real pain some days, so hoping this fixes it!
 

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I have often wondered whether the cause of early failure of the brake switch is arching across the switch while trying to start the vehicle. This could occur if the key is turned and held in start position in an attempt to start the vehicle before the brake is pressed, and then the pedal pressed. In such an instance a tiny spark could jump across the brake switch contacts causing a small pit in them. Repeated cycles over a thousand plus miles would eventually cause the contacts to become so pitted they no longer conduct electricity well causing difficulty with starting.

I've caught myself performing this very cycle several times; get in, turn key, no start, realize I must push the brake to engage the starter, push brake and engine cranks over and starts. The requirement to push the brake to start is different from any other vehicle I own. I have to push the brake to select a new gear in the automatic transmission of my usual vehicles, but not to start them. Since I've driven my on road vehicles for decades before I owned a Ranger that cycle is now habit and old habits die hard.

These days I make an effort to push the brake before turning the key to start my Ranger, and if I catch myself turnignt he key first I release the key, then press the brake and turn the key again. Will this allow my brake switch to last longer? I don't know, we'll see. Currently I have 1800 miles on my Ranger, most of that short trips, so lots of starts, and no problem.
 
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Your suspicion is certainly logical. I've only had mine for about a month as I bought it used, so hard to say how he may have tried starting it for the year he owned it. Generally I am pretty good about hitting the break first since my cars also require that to start (push button start).

I did get it back from the shop and they confirmed that the brake sensor was going bad and replaced it under warranty... starts up with no effort now!
 

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I can’t find that part number on Partzilla or Amazon
 

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Whoops. 4014262 is correct as stated in the first paragraph on reply #3. I will correct it in the other paragraphs shortly.
 

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So this sounds like my issue as well. To replace this sensor it requires a bleeding of the break fluid? Very novice question here, is this easy to do? Is it like a car? Someone walk me through the steps?

4014262 is the correct replacement?
And get the 5413212 washers just in case?
 

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Well I ended up buying the 4014262 cause that is what my dealer had in stock. I will try to get it installed tomorrow. I hope this new part doesn't have the same issue as my current one developed.
 

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Well I ended up buying the 4014262 cause that is what my dealer had in stock. I will try to get it installed tomorrow. I hope this new part doesn't have the same issue as my current one developed.
I hope it doesn't either but it probably will! From what I gather, it just isn't as good of a switch (or they had a bad run of them) as the 225 switch is. The bean-counter(s) probably made the decision to go with the 262 switch cause it saved them 0.005% over the 225 switch (or in their defense it could have been a supplier shortage with the 225's; we'll never know).

Get some DOT4 fluid (as per your manual) as yes you will need to bleed your front brake circuit. It's your call as to whether you want to get some extra sealing washers ahead of time. It's an easy job. More like a truck than a car :LOL:
 
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