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Discussion Starter #1
Well, yesterday I finally experience what some other owners have experienced, dumped a load of wood and the bed went back hard and broke the bottom end of the lift support which I think Polaris calls "shock-box dump". My machines is a 2015 FS, out of warranty. Anyone have any sources for an after market replacement? How about pressure specifications for the OEM unit. I see similar lift cylinders available for about $18 plus shipping available from MSC but they would require some minor modification to work. It looks like a tether in addition to a new lift cylinder is in my future.
 

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Well, yesterday I finally experience what some other owners have experienced, dumped a load of wood and the bed went back hard and broke the bottom end of the lift support which I think Polaris calls "shock-box dump". My machines is a 2015 FS, out of warranty. Anyone have any sources for an after market replacement? How about pressure specifications for the OEM unit. I see similar lift cylinders available for about $18 plus shipping available from MSC but they would require some minor modification to work. It looks like a tether in addition to a new lift cylinder is in my future.
A self retracting web style tie down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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you can get them at auto parts store the shock but brackets guess need re welded T&S
 

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Looks like Polaris part 7044143 (verify of course). Fix my toys has it for $65.99 plus any tax and shipping. I think they also offer a forum discount as well. WAY over priced from Polaris, but something to consider if there is a lot of modification needed to use an aftermarket part. The cost savings could be absorbed pretty quickly.
 

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I don't remember which fab shop it was but there is one offering a aluminum flatbed with front rack and side stack pockets. It fit right onto the Ranger. Looked very cool. Would not weigh any more then the plastic dump bed.
 

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Watch e-bay, they show up now and then. I bought one for $10 there.

Call dealers some swap out for electric bed hoist.
 

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I broke my shock the same way about 2 years ago. It still works. If I let the bed come all the way up then the shock falls off. Then I put it back on and close the bed. One day I'll fix it when someone comes up with a working aftermarket part number.
 

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If you do a lot of hauling and dumping look at the electric bed hoist. I think they are 250. You prolly already have seen them..


Du
 

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I really like my Polaris Dump Bed Actuator. They are pretty expensive from the dealer (over $700 here in Canada) but I found one of eBay for a lot less then that price. The only very minor negatives I have experienced so far is that it takes a little longer when just raising the bed to check the oil, and also I think the bed raises less then with the standard shock lift, but not a big deal, I just raise the bed most of the way then remove the pin and raise the bed right out of the way when working on things (changing the oil, etc.). Also, the switch is a bit of a pain, it's a momentary on/off, and I must admit I find it a bit annoying having to hold the button down, I am going to see if I can find a replacement switch that acts like many automotive power window switches, where it's a momentary on off, but with a double-tap feature to move all the way up or down. Anyway, just thought I'd share my experiences with it in case your considering that option.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I'm on to a new plan for repair. After closer examination of the OEM shock (gas spring) and looking for alternatives on the Internet I discovered that the ends unscrew from the shock. The are screwed on to a threaded stud on the body with Loctite at one end and on to the shaft at the other. The factory ends appear to be zinc which is servicable but doesn't hold up well to shock. So, my solution will be to make some new ends from either steel or aluminum. There is room in the mount for the walls of the ends to be made considerably thicker and therefore stronger so they won't break again. I am fortunate to have some machine tools but with some elbow grease there is no reason that someone couldn't make some with hand tools, a hacksaw, drill with proper size bit, file, tap and handle and new ends could be made quite easily and would be much more durable than stock ends.
If anyone is interested I'll post some photos when I get around to the repair.
 

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Back in the fall (Oct) my boat engine hatch lost its ability to stay open. One of the struts were bad. Both seemed ok when removed, but one was weak.

I learned the length and pound of pressure required for the strut and ordered a spare set from here:

30-39 pound pressure, 17 inches in length items in strut-your-stuff-here store on eBay!

As you already learned you can unscrew the connectors to put on another strut. If unsure just email the seller.
 

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Haven't looked at one up close....but would a heim joint thread on there and work?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Haven't looked at one up close....but would a heim joint thread on there and work?
As yet I haven't measured the thread, but I believe it to be metric, maybe 6 mm/1.0 or .75 as it appears to be finer than 1/4-20 and different from 1/4-28.

I suppose if you had a Heim Joint end that had metric threads, correct inside diameter for the pin, AND, didn't exceed the length of the original end by much it could work well. If it exceeds the length of the original end the bed wouldn't have enough room to close. I am uncertain whether the entire length of travel of the air spring is used up (completely collapsed) when the bed is down, so some investigation would be needed. In the up or dump position there is adequate room for the air spring to have a couple of inches of additional overall length. In fact if it were long enough the tires become the "stop" which is exactly what happened when mine broke. The downside is that if you drive forward after dumping to clear the bed the tires would drag on the bed and tear something up. Larger than stock tires would make things worse yet with regard to overall length.
 

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I never dump mine unless im pressure washing it blood out lol T&S
 

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Nice - is the a SX2 or a SX3 mill? Get a a Tormach and really whip those out!

I have a homebuilt 5'x5' 3 axis on linear rails and rack and pinion - router - but I do cut some aluminum from time to time
 

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What I did was when my shock end broke, I installed a tailgate cable along side of it that was slightly shorter than the shock to keep it from popping the end of the shock off. IMG_1192.JPG

Got this at a local carquest for 10 bucks
 
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