building A arms for my Midsize

The only way to figure it out truly is to jack buggy up to desired height, unborn tie rod, axle nut and balljoint, let the tire slide out to where it's level, then measure from balljoint to balljoint hole.

im done being lazy stuff is bout to happen

Click to expand...

haha....cant WAIT to see what ya do. Hopefully there will be bikini babes in the pictures you'll be taking...hahahaha

Pics on updates please

in for this one. I wanna see that outcome.

bad news is I wont be getting started in the a arms this week....... good news is im going to order enough metal to build a few sets from scratch goin take a lil time to get it all figured out an I may make ached a arms as well after making a jig to make these hope fully

Hey bro, if you wanna sell a set let me know. Ill.but a none arched set from you. Question though, why don't you just extend balljoint plate instead of making new arms, it would be alot simpler

Was wondering that myself...just machine a small plate and add it to the bottom, (or top), of the existing ball-joint plate to get the proper A-arm length? May sound silly but you actually wouldn't even have to disassemble hub/brake/wheel assembly! Pull the tie-rod, drop the A-arm at the ball-joint, align the wheel/tire for proper camber, measure and clamp and weld your extension plate to the A-arm. Repeat on the other side and reassemble the A-arms and adjust the tie-rods. Just make sure the plate placement is identical on both sides!

Cheers

Depends how far "out" you go with the plate, but i'd add some strength to it...some type of gusset...maybe similar to a piece of channel? Cant explain myself on here but i got a good visual in my head. LOL

you may have a point WagZ, over doing it is cheep insurance, but we really can't be talking about a lot of distance, 1/2" to 1" at the very most and adding a 3/16 plate over the existing plate that could be welded back into the A-arm legs would surely be an improvement over the stock arrangement! The stresses applied to this point are mostly lateral since the strut tower takes most of the "jolting" vertical force.

Cheers

jokout said:

you may have a point WagZ, over doing it is cheep insurance, but we really can't be talking about a lot of distance, 1/2" to 1" at the very most and adding a 3/16 plate over the existing plate that could be welded back into the A-arm legs would surely be an improvement over the stock arrangement! The stresses applied to this point are mostly lateral since the strut tower takes most of the "jolting" vertical force.

Cheers

Click to expand...

True but only 3/16!?! if I PERSONALLY was building it, it'd have 1/2 plate. LOL i build everything heavy...guess its just a habbit from years of "wheeling" and making stuff smash proof. haha oh and wrenching on heavy equipment....nothings LIGHT on those..

well going heavy really wouldn't hurt either! LOL! Just thinking adding a 3/16" plate would be a HUGE improvement to what's there from Polaris

Cheers

just a thought...do we have enough threaded shank on the ball-joint to get the nut back on and the cotter pin in with 1/2"?

Cheers

You wouldn't need to extend more then 1"

jokout said:

just a thought...do we have enough threaded shank on the ball-joint to get the nut back on and the cotter pin in with 1/2"?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Good point..very good point!!

The main problem is no one wants to crank out the doe for longer axles

well I beat the all out dog shit outta my rig tonight with the new 4" lift no major problems I did break a out board cv again I am running 31" outlaws so that's sum what normal im really happy I drove pretty retraded p
ulled out a few broke rigs

Did you break a front? If so install some steering stops and your problem is solved

good point Wes!

Cheers

When I had 4in on block on the front of mine. Creeping around the yard when articulated the front axle would bind and it was hard to steer. Had to back up then go again and it was fine.