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Discussion Starter #1
I want to put a bus bar in the battery compartment of my 2013 Ranger 900XP. I spent an hour this morning trying to find a spot. The presence of the secondary battery and the isolator (mounted on the right side of the main battery) complicate things. I want the bus bar in the battery compartment. I already have a Blue Sea fuse block in the front of the ATV under the hood. One of the cables that will attach to the bus bar in the battery compartment will be the one going to that fuse block. The big pair of cables coming in from the upper right go to the Anderson connectors for the cradle mounted winch that goes into the hitch (rarely used).

The bus bar I was planning to use is from Fastronix. It's 2" tall, which is part of the problem. It also has four studs that are 5/16" which is bigger than the lugs on most of my cables, except for the big winch cables. I'm looking for different bus bars with 6mm or 1/4" studs. I think the new bus bars will be shorter, but they still won't fit in most of the locations except for 4 and 5. Instead of a 4 stud bus bar I'm leaning towards a single or double stud bar.

In the picture below, I numbered the locations where I considered placing the bus bar.
1. Attached to the side of the plastic tub. This won't work because the tub that goes into the battery compartment contacts the bus bar.
2. Attached to the top or driver side of the frame. This won't work because the tub that goes into the battery compartment contacts the bus bar. The cables won't reach this location.
3. Attached to the bottom of the frame rail using angle aluminum to recess it towards the outer panel (passenger side). This would be an ideal location. However, the cables to my fuse block as well as the OEM cables to the front winch won't reach this location.
4. Attached to the backside of the seat panel, which is plastic. This isn't a bad spot but I'm reluctant to attach a bus bar to plastic. Also, even though I would use a bolt/screw with as flat a head as possible, it would still stick out a bit. I just know that SWMBO would complain about that.
5. On the floor of the compartment. This isn't a bad spot. It's not easily accessible but all the wires would reach OK. I would have to fabricate a bracket to raise the 4 stud bus bars up a good 1/2" off the frame so they clear the radiator hoses. Single stud terminal blocks would work good here.
6. Attached to the side of the frame. This won't work because the tub that goes into the battery compartment contacts the bus bar if the bus bar is mounted on the back side of the frame. The cables would contact the tub if the bus bar is mounted on the driver side of the frame (they may not reach anyhow). If I mount the bus bar on the passenger side of the frame then the cables definitely won't reach.

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This is where I am going to put mine. This block may be a different size than yours.


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Discussion Starter #4
My cables aren't long enough to get to that position.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Instead of a bus bar I ended using a Fastronix Power Junction Block. As you can see in the picture below, it's a simple single stud instead of multiple studs on a bar. It has a lower profile than the bus bar I was trying to use. That allowed me to mount it on the side of the plastic tub without hitting the tub that goes in the battery box.

130374


The picture below is after the install. It's not a great picture, but it does show the negative block installed on the side of the tub.
130375
 
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