PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,233 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This review will be of the Busbar Harness Kit, Polaris P/N 288055. If you have a 4 seat RZR 1000, this is the harness number you need. It consists of one red and one black wire, each in its own flex, with terminal ends pre-attached to both ends. The wire appears to be #6 AWG. The battery end of the wire has terminal ends with a bend in them and the terminal strip end, the one under the hood on the firewall, has straight ends. The two pieces of flex, with wire inside, are fastened together and there are 4 push fit type connectors and 2 metal "snap fit" connectors at pre-determined locations. These connectors are at marked spot, with white tape, on the flex. It is a very nice system with connectors that I found to be at exactly the right spots. No "fudging" one way or the other was required! The purpose of this kit is to supply a high current 12 volts to the front terminal strip for powering high current draw devices such as large light bars, stereos and winches.
Ok, let's get started! First, place the vehicle in Park and remove the key. Next, remove all 4 seats and place them somewhere safe, you don't want to get a hole poked in them should they fall over!! Now, remove the hood and set it somewhere safe as well. The next step is to disconnect the battery. It will remain disconnected until completely finished. I always like to cover or tape over the positive battery post as extra insurance I don't arc something!! Here is a picture of the front ****pit area before removing anything.

Now, you need to remove the shift knob. To do this, pry off the top cap of the knob. If you look at the back side of the knob, you will see a small slit to put a screwdriver in and then twist slightly. Once the cap starts moving, put the screwdriver down and use your hands. Be very careful to size the screwdriver correctly and be gentle or you will end up with a burr on the outside of the knob. Now, loosen and remove the one torx screw holding the knob on. Here is one area I deviate a little from others. Once I have the torx screw out, I lay it back down inside the knob and then lightly put the cap back on the knob. This keeps up with the screw and gives me one less thing to lose!! Now, the knob will come off the shaft with a good tug. Just don't be standing over it so you don't bust your nose when it lets loose! Set the knob aside for safe keeping. The next thing I did was to take the rubber boots on the front seat belt buckles and break one corner loose and push the whole boot down below the console. Once you do one, you will see that the boot has a groove the edge of the console fits into and is a simple process to do. If you want to save some time, go ahead and do the same thing to the rear buckle boots too. For the shifter boot, I left it attached to the console and then just slid it up the shaft of the shifter. You can break it loose and leave it just like the buckle boots if you prefer. Now you can remove the bolts and tuflock rivets that attaches the console to the machine. The instructions say there are 4 bolts and 5 tuflocks. I think that is correct but the key is, the console should very easily lift up, if it doesn't, STOP, you missed a bolt or tuflock!!
Here are a couple photos with the front console removed.


Now, you can move to the rear console. There are 2 screws and 4 tuflocks holding it in place. If you have already detached the buckle boots from the console, the process is very quick. One thing to remember on the rear console is there is an auxiliary power port on the passenger side of the console. There is no need to disconnect this, just gently lift the console up and lay it over to the passenger side of the vehicle. Be very careful not to damage the wiring here.
This photo shows the rear buckle boots and how when disconnected, can be pushed down below the console. The rear console is still in place here.

This photo shows the underside of the rear console with the aux. power port wiring still attached. The belt buckles you see are the front seat ones but you can see how the boot stays.

This shows the whole ****pit with both consoles removed.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top