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2012 ranger 800 crew stock
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off thanks to everyone who has helped, and given advise. Originally my 2012 Ranger 800 Crew wouldn't move. After talking it apart and replacing broken parts including the left case half, I foolishly tried to save some money and bought a rebuilt clutch from Ebay, bad move. The one I got was like a stall converter it wouldn't engage until about 3,000 Rpm's. I thought i would try it for a while and see if it would loosen up but it didn't. I broke down and shelled out the money for a Duraclutch from Todd at Hunterworks. great service ordered the part and it was here in just a few days. Thanks Todd. Now the problem. When I was attempting to remove the old clutch instead of it popping right off like I thought it would since it hadn't been on too long. the clutch itself came apart. Anyone have an idea about getting half a clutch off the motor?
 

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2012 ranger 800 crew stock
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's the one that was sent from hunterwoks. I figured it would be a good one. but now it is stuck in there and there isnt anything to hold the shaft still while I unscrew it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yes but maybe my impact or compressor isn't big enough. I had a breakover and a cheater bar on it when it unscrewed the clutch. from what i remember reading that's around 200 ft-lb's right?
 

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I really don't understand how the clutch came apart while on the engine. What was holding the fixed sheave that is in the picture?

The reason for the impact is you won't have to have anything holding the clutch that is left, it should pop right off. That is assuming they sent you the correct puller tool. The newer 900's and up use a thinner puller that if used on your 800 would basically press itself into the threaded hole in the crankshaft and, well, not good.
 

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2012 ranger 800 crew stock
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I suppose nothing was holding the fixed sheave. I ran a bar thru the spider to hold it while I ran the bolt/puller in. I guess it was like putting the spider in a vice like you would to separate the halves. My first thought was heat but that probably wouldn't be good on the shaft that goes into the motor. My next thought was a BFH but that probably wouldn't be good on that output shaft either. I'm at a loss on how the puller won't just press against the shaft and pop the clutch off, it's like its welded on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have one like the black one and a gold one that is similar but not as many threads. I'm not as sharp as I once was, but I went out to study this problem. I put the black one in as far as it would go with the impact then marked it, did the same with the gold one. they both went in the same depth. I then took the bolt that held the clutch and put it in, if I went at an angle I felt a shoulder, I marked it then lined it up and slid it in straight then marked it again when the threads hit. The difference was about an inch. I cut a piece of old u bolt at 2 " the ubolt was smaller than the diameter of the pullers but bigger than the threaded end of the retaining bolt. shoved it in made sure it was passed the shoulder I felt and put the puller in. hit it with the impact and wha-la it popped off. I looked in the old clutch and couldn't find anything that would have been like a shoulder but who cares it's off the new ones on and I'm back on the road. The duraclutch works great. Thanks BPS and thanks Todd at hunterworks. I don't know how to tag him but maybe someone will let him know.
 

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